I also have the 2.0 channel but I prefer the original
1 Like
I just hate detailing. Itâs proly my least favorite step to cleaning a window, especially for pole work.
2 Likes
For the record, I have no issue with a manufacturer producing squeegees that work only with, or work best with, their own brand of rubber. But when it just shreds itself like tissue paper during normal use due to the stress of their squeegee design, that tells me there is a problem.
Iâm glad to hear they are working on a new formula.
1 Like
Why not just use brass for everything?
2 Likes
I have to admit that their obsession with soft rubber drives me a touch spare. It seems to work fine in the UK and Europe but really isnât suited to our frames in NZ (obviously the same in Oz and the US). I think for export outside the EU they should load their Liquidator channels with their hard rubber. Much more durable.
1 Like
Question When using Liquidator channel.
Where do you get the most problems with it.
Is it when using a fixed handle or a swivel handle.
Using in the hand or on a pole.
Or the length of channel 10, 16,18, 22 inch .
My main problem right now is due to the rubber wearing out too quickly.
The wear is more rapid when used in hand as a fixed handle. When used as a swivel on a pole it is almost always on commercial/storefront glass, which has a wide gasket that does not wear hard on the rubber.
Channel size seems to have no impact on the rubber longevity for me.
What is the difference in pressure mandated by the hard compound with the LIQ 2.0?
With my 1.0 channel I did not enjoy how forcefully I needed to press the squeegee with Black Diamond hard rubber.
âŚYeah this is the question. âHow much time is saved?â Even if âzero detailingâ is achievable
does it save enough time to make a difference in ones life.? Does it save enough time to do another house?
Does it save enough time to go home and do whatever needs doing? Personally I donât think so.
A wfp can make that difference but I donât think âzero detailingâ can.
4 Likes
Because Sorbo is much easier on commercial. With the brass you have to put a lot more pressure on the squeegee. Also it doesnât close out as easy as the angle of the handle is a smaller angle. On deep frames especially you can still close out with the Sorbo but with the brass its much harder. Also with the brass you really canât go much bigger than am 18". On many commercial jobs, especially on second floor windows, using a large squeegee that only takes 2 pulls is much more efficient.
I have tried just using Sorbo on residential but it needs more detailing. It is especially not effective on true divide light windows.
1 Like
So your opinion is that the quest for zero detail is essentially a moot point. What kind of squeegees do you use, and how much towel detailing do you need during normal use?
Why is it necessary to have the Liquidator clip bent forward??
The issue you have with BD is that the rubber is shorter bulb to edge than other rubbers (although I do believe Unger is the same dimensions) and the problem you have with V2 clips is that the clip sits almost flush with the edge of the rubber. More pressure is required although you can change blade angle fractionally to somewhat compensate.
Yes, for me it makes a difference. Both in time saved and energy expended particularly in combination with a pivoting handle.
1 Like
Also to answer the question zero detailing can absolutely save enough time to make a difference. It makes all the difference in the world however when you have a finicky tool that requires slowing down to achieve that result then the answer is no.
At the begging of my career as a window cleaner when I did store front I would detail every window. When I started doing expanding into larger commercial jobs I soon realized detailing every window was not going to get the job done efficiently. I had to adjust. Over time I learned to achieve great results without detailing and it improved my efficiency tremendously. I was able to do large buildings with great results (a no detail finish) in half the time. Now I rarely detail on commercial buildings and most of the time donât even have a detail rag on me. I donât currently do storefront hut I imagine I wouldnât need to detail accept at the doors
On residential I learned to do the windows without detailing and I went from producing $50.00 and hr to aver $100.00 an hr on return jobs and regular customers. I still detail but rarely. I generally go all week on the same detail rag until itâs just too dirty to keep using. I detail more on some divided light jobs.
The point is zero detailing absolutely makes a huge difference.
2 Likes
I think weâve talked about this previously Herman. With the original dog-ear aka Wagga using metal channels his split and bend down, plus fractionally in was to firm up the leading edge of the rubber. The dog ear just barely touched the rubber when looking down on it. Bob took it a step further with his angle cut (although he didnât do the split). I did a combination of the twoâŚ
Bob developed his âdog-earâ and optimised it for a particular type of thin seal that was prevalent on a lot of his work. During the testing phase of the prototype clips it was discovered that the plastic had give/spring in it and would bend back and ride up over those seals. Hence the slight bend in to compensate for the natural âspringâ in the plastic.
1 Like
See, these are the issues that make a convincing case for going back to brass.
But does it take a special tool to achieve? Or is the person wielding the squeegee a larger part of the equation?
Additionally, is zero-detail even a realistic goal for the average cleaner with a regular, unmodified squeegee? Or would most be better served by a specialty tool designed to minimize detailing as it comes from the factory?
Now to add another point, if I may. The bigger question is how does zero detaining fit into your overall business plan or model. What do I mean?
Do you plan to hire employees or stay solo? If you hire employees will you take the approach of hiring highly qualified workers or unskilled workers and a quick training process?
In other words no detailing might skew your ability to effectively gage your business model and skew your numbers. In other words you will bid jobs based on your advanced abilities (no datailing) and develop procedures surrounding your skill level. Then when you go to hire on you will find your procedures and job pricing etc. donât work with your new employees. You quickly find your need to adjust. You may even find that you have forgotten what it was like to have little skill and find it hard to develop procedures around unskilled labor because you canât relate.
Sometimes itâs easier for someone with no skill to build a solid business model as they tend to be less finicky with employees which is often what it takes when dealing with employees.
4 Likes
I donât buy your argument Samuel. May as well go back to Chamois, Scrim and Sea Sponge⌠The clip is designed to work optimally with Moerman rubber ( or rubber of the same dimension, Razer Red, Wagtail, Moerman Hard and Ettore to name but a few) it gives 1.5-2mm distance from tip to rubber edge. This in no way makes a case for âgoing back to Ettore Brassâ, which by the by I havenât used with any consistency for nearly 30 years). Choose your tool, optimise for your personal style and rock onâŚno biggie.
2 Likes
Thatâs exactly how the company employing my brother operates. Everyone on their crew, including the owner, just haphazardly straight-pulls every pane in about two seconds, then spends two minutes buffing their edges and drag lines with a towel. Itâs absurd, but itâs apparently good enough to do good business.
