Am I the only one inetersted in scratch removal?

I seem to be the only one interested in scratch removal but I have to ask. For those of you out there who do this, do you use a cooler or cooling system to keep your slurry from boiling and becoming ineffective?? For those of you who don’t know, the slurry that flows through the machine becomes ineffective if it gets too hot. Last month while on a job my slurry was so hot it literally burnt my hand when i stuck it in the bucket to check the temp. I was taking breaks every 5 min. to let it cool down. I had never had to use it for this long before. (about 8 hours straight) I eventually left the job site to get some ice. I but the slurry bucket in a rubbermade towel bin filled with ice water to cool it down. It worked great. If anyone has built a more permanent devise, can you share some tips or pics??

Out of curiousity could you run the hose that the slurry runs in thru a container that has a few refreezable ice packs in it. That way you don’t have to keep buying bags of ice?

I guess you could run the hose around some freezer packs. I would imagine that you would have to move the packs around every couple of min. When you buy an SRP machine, the hose from the bucket to machine is only 5 or 6 feet long. So there’s not much room to play. I have herd of some people putting the bucket in kind of a makeshift kegerator. But I have never seen it.

I’m not involved in this end of the business at all but I’m always interested in add-ons. It seems I’m always reading about the problem with the slurry getting too hot and being ineffective. I would think that the equipment you use is expensive and purchased from a large company, don’t they have any solutions for this problem?

Maybe there is a forum out there on the web solely dedicated to scratch removal.

When I was at the factory getting trained, they just said you can throw the bucket in a cooler filled with ice water. Or keep the top off the bucket to let it breath. They had no [I]real[I] or official way to keep the slurry cool.

Alex, When I was at the factory I saw dead people did you? (NO GUNS)


Bill

In fact I did. That was a lovely trip.

I would love to learn who to repair scratches in glass, I have been thinking about adding this into my window cleaning business for years. Where do you get the training?

http://www.srpglassrestoration.com/

contact this company. i bought one of their machines and trained at their factory.

I used a larger cooler on wheels, I had to buy 5 bags of ice every morning…I would fill a Zip-lock style bag half full of ice…and put THAT into the slurry bucket.

Once the water hits 90*…your time is doubled for removal. and doubles about every 15* after that.

Jeep in mind…I removed scratches all day…every day…for months…sigh.

the srp sucks for this one reason.
However, if used in conjucntio with w scratch hog…and use the srp onoy to remove the final haze…one can fly through damaged glass.

I’m interested in learning more about this… Only found 1 place that is close to me in the UK but they do it as a weeks course including how to market your business etc but for the price it would cheaper for me to fly first class to the US and stay for a full month than to use the UK option…

What with households and businesses wanting to save money these days and the green issue of repairing instead of replaceing it should be a good little add on service to start with…

Regards
Mr H

I do Scratch removal and Hardwater stain removal of the most severest kind. Never liked the results with the units that were available until I found the Glass renu system it rocks! There are some wannabe systems cropping up using similar methods. But in my opinion this system and co is the best. Scratches come out in a fraction of the time. But like a WFP or Mr long arm or any kind of new tool it is not a magic wand there is a learning curve that requires practice to master. There website has videos www.glassrenu.com feel free to email me if I can offer any assistance thx GP

I remove scratches but I am not very fond of it. I bought a scratch hog to fix one job we had but since then I have not found it useful or a good way to market it. The down side to the scratch hog is that it is heavy and removing the final haze can get difficult. I would like to try the SRP but till I get more work in that area it will have to wait. the scratch hog here gets more use for it’s ability to remove water stains. I think my main problem is that the price I am willing to do it for is not what every one wants to pay. I am curious what all of you charge? hourly, by the scratch?

I always ask the customer if they have priced the replacement cost. Then I know if its worth my while. I usually won’t take my system out of the truck for less than 250. I mainly go after graffitti tags. How are things in the duke city I used to live there 7 yrs ago! having a glazier available to your needs is also helpful he can give you a rough price over the phone once you have done a few refferals so sometimes you get the job scratch removal and sometimes if it isn’t worth your while vs replacement cost he (the glazier) can get the job and soon he’ll be referring scratches to you on jobs that are to expensive from a glaziers point of view ie structural frame work that must be removed first before replacement which adds to the install price making scratch removal cheaper for customer.

Is there are a large market for scratch removal? How much per hour can one gross? How do you sell this service?

Large market exist where acid etch or “tagging” on windows is prevalent vandals , gangbanger wannabes scratch their names into glass to mark there territory. sometimes offensive phrases are scratched in. Many storefronts are affected and it is a bad look for the store keeper. When you know what your doing about 100-200 hr and in the mean time you ve saved the customer hundreds some times thousands.

I am also interested in scratch removal, and am looking into two or three systems. So I am following this area closely.

My thought; that buying ice everyday is expensive, why not fill up a bucket of water with a (dry) hose running through it (dry) and then freeze it. The big block of ice takes a long time to cool down, especially if it is in a cooler. Pick up a cooler from a garage sale, and modify it, just to try it out.

Run the slurry though the tube that runs into the cooler. If you wound the tube, it would dissipate much more heat than a straight though option.

Tell me about it I’m in Az I get to the window at the crack of dawn and the glass is already 100 degrees ! throw 2-3k rpms on top of that and your heating up the slurry real fast ! I did the ice thing many times.What systems are you looking at?

Did you have seziuer mid sentence? :smiley:

what happened to the other message???
was it an unsolicited ad?