Some do because the pressure isn’t enough from the house after going through a DI/RO system but my pump is to pump pure water that I’ve already filtered into a holding tank in the back of my truck. I use it to pump it from the tank.
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Hello! Glad to hear that your build is working well for you : ) We have a similar DIY build in our van and love it!
May I please ask which wireless remote you are using? I tried at least 3 different models that I purchased on ebay/amazon that were all supposed to be “long range” remotes (one even claimed 1000m range), but I didn’t always have consistent results. It could get really frustrating when you’re trying to shut off the water flow to conserve your tank supply but the remote never works, haha : )
Now I just kink the hose to cut off the supply between windows. It has been pretty effective for us since I gave up on the remotes, haha. But if you have found an economical product that works for you even when you are around the backside of a house from your system, I would definitely be interested in hearing about it! Thanks so much for your time : )
That was my method for a long time. Nothing wrong with it at all. Now I use the exceed uni-valve. Only downside is it takes a bit of effort sometimes to get it to close completely. And the hose has a tendency to slip through the retaining clamp over time. But it saves me having to tie a little knot in the hose if I want to step away from the pole for a bit.
A demand pump will shut itself off after kinking the hose or closing a valve, so I don’t really see the point for a remote system. And if you have a pump controller with dead-end detection, it’s even smoother.
You may want to tighten your clamps if thats the problem. I have not had the hose slip off my uni-valves. I have had an issue in summer with soft hoses stretching too much so you really needed a long yank to open or close the univalve. I switched to Tucker hose and that solved my problem.
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Yeah, it doesn’t slip off the univalve, but the clamp that holds the hose above the opening in the gooseneck likes to slip. Especially when I’m using heated water, since the hose softens. I’ve gotten it tightened down about as much as I’m comfortable, as I don’t want to restrict flow.
I’ve just gotten into the habit of sliding it down a bit at the beginning of each job with my Leatherman pliers. But I’ll check out the Tucker hose. Thanks for the tip!
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Ah, yeah, the warm water introduces another factor into the mix.
I love using a pump with a pressure switch for such applications as a trailer or truck/van setup. Auto shuts when demand is not there. The advent of remotely changing the pressure or speed of the pump is an awesome feature when you are a few hundred feet from your rig.
I have thought about the Uni-Valve before, but I am a “hose outside the pole” kind o’ guy, haha, since I constantly add & drop pole sections as needed. I use a forbidden brand’s “Kink” tube velcro’d to the pole to keep the flow off when I have to walk away. Pretty low-tech but consistent solution. : ) That same brand makes some “tube-runner” clips that I installed on each pole clamp. That usually keeps the hose within reach of the bottom pole section while I’m working at any length/height so that I can easily grab it and kink between windows. Now that I’ve gotten used to that setup, it’s hard for me to work without them, haha.
I also keep a push-connect ball valve in my tool pouch or pocket that goes on the end of the hose when I’m done with the job and winding up the hose on my reel. I like to keep the hose full of water instead of draining while I’m winding it up so that I can start instantly at my next job : )
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I tried outside the pole before. Actually ran that way for a good while. With the landscaping I work around, I was constantly getting snagged on stuff.
I will add a section occasionally for when I need the 40’ extension piece, but for the most part I just use the 30’ pole. But if yours is anywhere near as heavy as the wReck-iT mini I owned for awhile, I don’t blame you for dropping sections whenever possible.
I have a quick connect between the supply hose and pole tubing, which allows me to add or drop a section when necessary. It’s a little bit of a pain, but much less than getting hung up on landscaping 
Just a run through of my DIY truck mounted WFP System after I’ve been using it for a year and a half. Maybe it’ll help if you need ideas. The video description has details in it. The tank, pump, battery, hose adapters, hoses, wfp hoses and the other miscellaneous stuff was under $500. The actual pole and brush cost double that but that’s a tucker hybrid with rinse bar for $150 and a xero micro 30ft pole that starts at $800. Truck Mounted Water fed Pole tank and pump - YouTube
Nice setup, bro! I have the same PWM speed controller for my pump. Works great! And a fraction of the price of the “professional” controllers haha. Happy cleaning to you : )
Radio remote ranges will vary dependant on a number of factors. 1 Other devices that are nearby can create some interference, In this day and age where we are all have mobile phones, Connected to Bluetooth and the local cell network.
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Radio signals travel in straight lines and then bounce of a surface when the receiver is out of sight of the transmitter. Each bounce reduces the signal strength and range. This becomes more noticeable in a built up city area with close and taller buildings
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Local code regulations. Springs WFP Link radio remote is capable of much greater range But we have to limit it to meet local radio regulations. to avoid the transmitter blocking out everything else transmitting on a similar frequency.
Springs V16 has to meet all EMF regulations and we have them independently tested.
