DO I need RO

I just did my second job with my WFP DI tank. I finally figured out my hose problem with a 3/4 ID hose. I have a lot more water flow but with the house I cleaned today my TDS went from 000 TDS to 004 TDS. This was about 2 and half hours of cleaning on and off as I turned off the water between windows.

I am feeling concerned as my understanding is that you should change the DI once you get to 10 or 11 TDS is that correct?

If so then that means I am only going to get 2 houses out of 1/2 cubic tank and that is not worth the cost of resin and everything else.

Should I get a RO and how will that work out? I have a half cubic tank from WCR so it would have to work with that some how. How long will the RO last and how long will it make my DI last for on average?

I am tempted to go back to my pole hose as it did not allow that much water through the system. Although it did spot at the top of the glass, maybe I could just do some extra rinsing.

Also the house had double hung so there was spotting on the lower pane near the top 2 inches. I’m thinking I might have to reserve the WFP for Commercial only.

What’s your starting (source) TDS?

What flow rate are you at when working on windows?

I didnt check my starting source but I think on average around here it is 400 TDS or higher. My flow rate I have no idea, how do you gauge that?

One goes through resin pretty quickly @ 400 TDS. Search for Bill’s or Alex’s posts that include a chart listing estimated gallons at various TDS readings.

Got a TDS meter?

To check flow rate, one can allow pure water to fill a gallon (or 2, or 3) container and keep an accurate time. Use your “typical” rate of use. You can also check varying rates to see what a difference adjustments make. Then do the math.

I have read somewhere on the forum that a good flow rate is 1/2 gallon per minute. If my flow is much higher than that, what are some ways to reduce the flow rate?

Turn the knob!

I have several knobs, which knob, the knob for the water where it hooks into the tank? The quick connect shut off valve? The valve for the source of the water? Or any combination or does it matter which one?

The quick connect is the easiet point to adjust your flow rate.

You DEFINITELY need RO with that TDS level.

I had a Reach Higher Ground DI cart. TDS in my area is around 50 ppm. The DI cartridges lasted around 32 hours of continuous use before I had to change one.

I did some jobs in some areas where the TDS was a little over 150 ppm. My DI cartridges lasted about 4 hours at that level.

I’ve done one home with that DI cart that had a TDS of 320 ppm. I needed to change the cartridge after only an hour of use.

I’ve since upgraded my system to RO/DI myself, using parts purchased from Reach Higher Ground. That was back in May. I haven’t changed a cartridge all year since then…and I’ve used the system extensively. I even used it at the building that has 150 ppm. I’m still going strong on the RO membrane and the DI cartridge that I installed in May.

I’m not the expert that Bill is. But, I’ve heard the experts say RO/DI in areas where TDS is over 100. And, I’ve experienced burning through DI when in areas of 150 ppm and higher.

So, to repeat…you DEFINITELY need RO. You’ll need to purchase at least a carbon filter and sediment filter to go inline before the RO. These will help filter stuff that is harmful to your RO. And, you’ll want a pump…a 12 volt is cheaper but only drives one pole. An electric pump is more expensive but will drive 2 poles.

Good luck.

You do not need a RO system if you live in southern california.

a 1 cubic tank will last you around 500 gallons based on a tds of 500 - 600ppm.

—TDS—Gallons
-----50-----3,012
—100-----1,506
—200--------753
—300--------502
—400--------376
—500--------301
—600--------251
—700--------215
—800--------188
—900--------167
1,000--------151

this is for a 1/2 foot di tank.

Based on this chart, if you run at 1/2 gallon per minute, your DI will last 752 minutes at 400 TDS, or about 12.5 hours.

I was probably being a little aggressive earlier when I said you DEFINITELY need RO. But, the money you spend on upgrading to RO will pay for itself quickly. It depends on how much you use the system.

Once I upgraded in May, the cost of upgrading has already equaled the cost of DI replacement. So, I’d have spent about the same right now in new DI cartridges as I did on the upgrade.

But now, my RO is still putting out 000 ppm TDS in most areas, and a max of 4 ppm TDS in areas where it’s 150+ ppm. So, from here on I’ll be saving money that I’d have spent on DI.

You don’t HAVE TO upgrade to RO, but it’ll save you money in the long run.

How much does a 1 cubic foot tank cost in Southern California for regeneration?
Do they charge rent?
Do they deliver the tank or do you pick it up?

Based on this chart, at 1/2 gallon a minute you would have 24 hours of run time in the given location.

For many that is a tank a week or more.

If you run a RO/DI system in that same location you will go nearly 5 months before dollar one is spent.

You may want to add this:

http://shop.windowcleaner.com/product.sc?productId=755&categoryId=181

and :

http://shop.windowcleaner.com/product.sc?productId=753&categoryId=180

If you ordered both we could take $200 off the total price.

BUT in SO Cal you get resin regenerated pretty cheap… So give it some thought.

$40.00 per 1 cubic tank shawn, free delivery and you can rent a tank for $17.00 per month or buy one for $400.00

It cost the same as ro or even a little cheaper.

So for heavy pure water users they can go through a tank a week at $40.00 a pop. Thats a couple thousand dollars a year potentially. IF you don’t figure in the monthly charges. Plus, most would probably have a back up tank on hand if the primary goes bad.

Personal preference and opinion is one thing, but saying RO is not needed in that scenario I don’t agree with.

well my tank lasts me 5 weeks and i use my pole every day.

remember, that us boys in so cal can not have any type of water hit the street or gutters.

one other thing, not all houses/commercial buildings have a yard to run the waste water from.

and to your question about going through 1 tank a week. Not even Troy Liposec runs through 1 tank a week and that guy makes like 200k a year solo. He uses his wfp on every job.

Where from? I haven’t found that deal in San Diego, I also have not found cheap resin either!

Help a Brotha out!

sorry, you live to far… you will have to come to the oc my man…

Hey Shawn,
Mike is here in San Diego…the TDS he gave was a low one in most areas. There are quite a few that have 800 or more. The guy who does my tanks I rent them from him. No monthly fee if I change out every month…but I am changing out tanks 3 and 4 times a month at 75.00 a pop. Thats about 3200 to 4000 bucks a year! Heck yeah its cheaper to get a ro/di cart, especially here in SD.My guy does deliver but he charges 8 bucks more. My next large investment will be a 5 stage electric…soon…very soon.
Doug, youre right- you dont need a ro system, but you gotta admit bro, in 2 years time, you’d have made back the money for the cart AND have reduced you cost for pure water by the end of year 2.

My tanks last on average about 10 to 12 hours. Sometimes it only lasts 6 or 7. Dont know how much resin is in there but they are about 4 or 4 1/2 feet high and there are 2 of them.