Glass attak scratch removal needs advice

Hi all, i need some advice on glass scratch removal. I purchased a Glass Renu kit and have clocked up apprx 200 hrs and continue to have trouble. 1st problem i have is if i inspect the final result i often see extremely fine scratches in the glass, generally undetected by the clients but never the less i know they are there.
No matter how long i pre polish and polish its never perfect…
Second problem is chasing fine scratches well away from the original damage causing my area of repair to grow 3 and 4 times the size. 3rd problem is double glaze windows i have had enormous amounts of issues keeping the repair isolated, when i feather out the edges it is difficult to keep it uniformed, also if the glass has a reflective internal coating it seems to highlight any imperfections.
I have watched the info videos on YouTube and as much as they are informative it is difficult to see if there is something i am missing.
I would love to see some hands on training in Melbourne Australia.

Cheers Corey

What pad are you using to remove the original scratch? Sounds like red…after the main damage is removed before you pre polish, you have to have those fine lines out. Try the blue or black pad to clean up fine lines. Sometimes I will let the removal pad do some pre polishing, let the stock load up and work the edges until it looks good for final polish, THEN pre polish and feather out, then once it’s all feathered in and looks good, polish.

Like what David is saying, I use the most aggressive pad I need to remove the damage and then immediately stop. Then I use a black to take any other scratches and swirls to get a uniform repair. Then I pull out the gray pad and grind until I have feathered the repair and brought the whole area to haze. Then comes the polish, polish and polish some more…step back and repeat until perfect

the system is more of a series of steps rather than 3 steps of grind red or tan/prepolish-grind grey /polish felt. once the red has done its job i do exactly what david and bumblebee state with the exception of using the other discs. the outer edge needs to be managed prior to grey disc as well as the swirls and scratches caused ( initially i clear the red often since the hole in the center collects larger debris) then i let the red fill with glass stock once the damage has been removed and make a pass over the entire area smoothing out the edges ( i will now use the other discs for this thanks david and bumblebee). the red is a very aggressive disc and to switch to a very fine grey disc to smooth out the damage is tuff the instructions (step 6) say " once you have removed the damage with one (or more) of the grinding discs". i will now utilize the other discs blue/black to further refine the scratched and swirls prior to grey although i have been able to go right into the grey so far with no problems i believe due to letting the red build up glass stock. the damage ive been dong requires a red (i didnt get any tan) and have also had to enlarge the area quite a bit as well. final polish only clears the glass if you have hazed the glass to perfection, if you see any fine scratches or swirls while polishing go back to grey and smooth it out be polishing it.

This is some good stuff. Copying and pasting to personal files for future reference :slight_smile:

Agreed. Above and beyond the basic info provided with the system. Nothing is greater than actual user feedback.

Yeppers, its tough to go from red to gray, unless your red is worn down, and their are only fine line scratches…and you did a significant amount of pre polishing with it. I found that gray is not good to take out those fine lines…use blue, its faster. If you don’t have tan pads, get them.

Do you guys notice the gray disc adding swirls to the glass?

When I go over the work area with my gray disc to pre-polish, a bunch of swirls and fine lines appear out of nowhere. I’m not sure if it’s because the gray disc just exposed the swirls or added them to the glass.

Have any of you come across this before?

those scratches are already there, probably burried under a lot of glass dust, you take the gray pad and are removing that glass dust (it loads up in the pad) and are working the area and the fine lines are becoming visible. When I have that issue I will go to a lighter pad if needed to remove the fine lines…OR…while I am working on the scratch…I let the pad I am using load up and let it work on the removal of the fine lines, (swirls)…

Awesome! Should I be concerned about distorting the glass if I’m only working on removing a single area with fine lines?

The grey disc sounds like a piece of ****

Before you pre-polish with the grey use a paper towel and wipe the glass dust away to see if you’ve left and fine swirl marks. Grey and blue pads will not remove them.

I do power washing and I’m considering adding scratch removal, I have some questions if you dont mind.

I watched the videos and it seems they go from pad to pad without wiping the window clean, how can you tell if you got the scratches out without wiping?

Can you use a flashlight held against the glass to detect scratch removal?

I did a job for the Honda museum that had L.E.D. lights all around the perimeter of an engraved piece of glass with Mr Honda’s signature. When the glass has flaws of ANY kind, the LED light will really light it up. The engraved glass we did for Honda looked fine, even in the sun, but when we put the L.E.D.'s on, whoa… I’ve never had to make scratched glass THAT perfect before or since!
So my answer is, YES, you can use an L.E.D. flashlight on an angle to show up any and all flaws and imperfections in scratched glass. Warning : You might not like what you see if you just removed some scratches from the glass!

Maybe I misunderstood something here. I’ve always been under the impression that GREY and/or BLUE are for exactly that, removing the scratches and thereafter leaving a super fine haze that is then polished out? No? Plus, you actually shouldn’t care if there are scratches or swirls BEFORE you pre-polish. That’s what I always have thought and did. Maybe I’m just lost and confused…(!)

That’s a good tip with the L.E.D flash light, I am always looking for scratches with a flashlight, even though I haven’t tried the and L.E.D, I will now. But you are right about the sun, I have taken a piece of glass out to the sun to look for a scratch that I had just seen inside with a flashlight and I couldn’t see it when I took it outside. When I go back inside and I hit it with the flashlight at an angle, they show up nice and clear.