I know you probably didn’t think to do it on the first window you replaced, but, IF you replace another one get the broken glass. Break out the rest of the glass and examine the plastic/rubber tips inside at each break point. Is it pointed hard plastic? Does it have any metal touching the glass? Or has it attached to the glass in such a way that movement of the pane during scrubbing or scraping would put stress on the glass at these points? It is obvious, to me at least, that the problem is in the manufacturing of these units. Check the brand and do a search on Google or Bing. For example, if it were Pella, search: “Pella window defects” or “Pella window problems” or “Pella windows cracking” and you might find something. Let us know the brand and we’ll help search.
Send me a pm with your email and what form - I have some other forms I have to send out too to some other people that asked… Ill try to do it Monday.
Long’s Window Care, Inc
What finally happened with this?
been a glazier for a long time. does not IMO look like a window cleaner could have possibly broke that. However you may get the blame.
This is true however when glass breaks from heat stress in this situation it is always the inside pane. I have been a film slinger for 18 years done thousands of houses and cars. not once has one broke from heat stress. If you install non reflective film on IG units it will break. I only install reflective on IG. I have seen them break from people putting posters and such on the inside pane of a annealed low-e unit. Heat stress has a distinctive look. an experienced glazier can spot heat stress quickly.
Agree. Heat stress is distinctive as is the spalling from an impact. Notice the spider/spalling from impact in the center pic. directly in line with the muntin bar. A blind man can see it. This is spalling. Neighbor kid w a sling shot?
I will also question the 18 yrs and never had an issue? I’m Sure youre very good and slinging is a skill. Must be a record of some sort i expect. Lol the issue w tint placed on interior of igu is igu manufacturers will immediately void any warranty offered by them. No recourse. If you notice, Tinted glass from a legit glass supplier and installed correctly, is always on exterior pane not on interior as film is. There are many factors for this design. Our discussion relates to the reduction the heat load on the glass and within the glass air space to help maintain the life of the unit. Too much heat lessens the life of one or the other (glass pane or sealed air space) Mainly the seal/airspace is the concern. Tint placed on interior especially reflective can and does tremendously heat up the air space which is backwards from the design of igu’s. With reflective film, isnt the heat pushed back thru the glass unit instead of dissipating at exterior pane before entering airspace as designed? this may lead to heat stress cracking as the heat may not properly dissipate once trapped, and it severely increases the interior heat load on the individual pane as well as within the air space.
Heat strengthened and tempered will accept much more stress than annealed glass, and commercial buildings and autos are common place for tempered. The pics are indicative of annealed FYI.
Neighbor kid w slingshot? Are you too friendly w a jealous husbands wife?
Reflective film does get warmer to the touch but not nearly as hot as non reflective film. All quality film manufactures warranty the glass now. There are many factors involved such as partial shade and such. This all goes on the warranty sheet. Sent to the film manufacturing company. I have never made a claim, maybe it does not get hot enough here.
You are correct factory shading is always on the exterior pane and this is ideal for tinted glass. Low E coatings vary sometimes on the 2nd or 3rd surface
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I have heard of windows being shipped to a higher or lower elevation building up pressure in between the panes that break soon after they are cleaned. It happened to my buddy’s business and he didn’t have to replace them. The window company took the hit.
thats interesting… thanks for the input!
Are the windows facing the sun?
So Sorry Steve, that kind of thing makes you lose your breath for awhile. It seems by your pics that the cross points where the rubber rests contact the glass played a part that can’t be ignored. My guess along with the other responders… Expanding or contracting glass that was not able to expand over the whole pane because of the “sticking points” at each cross sections, enhanced by the extra pressure those standoffs were providing. Those silicone or rubber plugs must have gripped the the glass and were applying pressure because of the grid they were attached to. This may not exonerate the glass itself. And, of course, none of this will convince a home owner to pay for it themselves.
Thanks for the lesson to us all. I’ll watch for this.
Looking through old threads today…
Did you ever figure this one out?