Here is yet another version of the double rinse bar?

So are the days of our life.
Another COPY CAT!!
Might be better??
TWO better then ONE?

Looks like it doesnt rinse evenly and uses more water! No thanks!

I’ve never seemed to need more than my four pencil jets even on the most hydrophobic of residential glass and I’ve used rinse bars in the past.

The double rinse bar seems like way overkill, but I don’t do large commercial plate glass where I can see the rinse bar being of some use. Seems like it would need a decent amount of pressure and uses a lot of water.

It that an old Xtel fiberglass pole? :rofl:

Why does he keep calling it the “munster rinse bar?”


Is it frightening to use?


You are exactly right Seth a waste of expensive water. I understand that more jets spreads the water and rinses better for hydrophobic glass. Like fan jets do. But I have people asking me all the time how to run the rinse bar and jets in the brush at the same time. My personal choice would be to use the rinse bar only on very hydrophobic glass or when using a boars hair brush up high to prevent lift the brush off the glass. I know there are some that use it all time. But some are complaining with RO on demand units they do not have enough flow. With this contraption that looks like a problem.

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Doesn’t a higher flow make rinsing faster?

Cost of pure water is cheaper compared to the cost of the wage of guy using it.

I’d say save labor time versus water consumption


Plus ∞. Spend two minutes on a power washing forum, and you learn that GPM is king. More flow == faster results.

Granted, there’s a practical limit to that principle when it comes to wfp work. You don’t want to create splashback issues, and you also have to account for the fact that a certain amount of time is going to be eaten up in the agitation phase, regardless of how much water is being used. That’s when flow control (like the the Uni-Valve, or just kinking the hose) comes in handy. Don’t waste that water while you’re scrubbing.

I agree with Jeff.

But I also think running a bar at the bottom will create a flow/demand issue. I know what my system will put out with a booster pump and a rinse bar. I think I would have a serious problem with flow if I had two bars consuming water.

Maybe this bar would work well for guys that carry water and pump it from a truck/van?

I seem to get plenty or rinse/wash power from a single rinse bar.

I find a flow controller more valuable than any rinse bar.

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When we did the research in the design of the Xero Pure we determined that 1/2 gpm is the right flow at the brush to clean proper. That’s why we preset the unit to get this flow with RO premeade water. The brush is what does the majority of the cleaning. The design of the brush and bristle configuration and materials and jet location is what is important. The majority of the agitation and cleaning is on the upstroke of the brush. The downstroke pulls the dirt off and rinses. We have also learned in brushes that with nylon bristles the only part of the brush that cleans is the tips so more bristles touching the glass the better the cleaning. Thus the flocked bristles clean better especially on cob webs. Also a dual trim brush has shorter stiffer nylon bristles in the center to help clean. Now we have learned that other materials like bronze wool and boars hair can clean better than nylon so we have hybrid brushes and full boars hair brushes.
The rinse over the top of the brush was first introduced by Tucker. It has now been improved by several different manufacturers. Personally I would only use it for hydrophobic glass just like with fan jets. But it’s exciting to see what people are doing with the new design in brushes.
I know there are those that will disagree with the water flow and more is better but I still think you can clean effectively and efficiently with 1/2 gpm or less. The Brits have done it for a long time.


Yes you surely can clean with 1/2 gpm but wouldn’t you also say that increasing the gpm reduces the time per window?

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I use Enterprise machine, kinda have to use a brush with multiple holes to get the pressure down, since I feel the pump is too powerful and one cannot get the pressure down or the pump starts cycling on/off.
I have plenty of GPM but I have to use a rinse bar every time, otherwise my pressure is too high and I am spalshing around too much:)

Not if the brush does its job. If the surface is cleaned on the upstroke then the downstroke will pull it off. This usually works with 2 strokes. Sometimes extra is needed wither it be a bronze wool or special chemical to lift and suspend so the pure water can remove from the surface. I do agree is some cases more water may speed up the removal of debris. But it also causes other spotting problems in some cases. JMO

I’ll agree with spotting being an issue from too much flow, especially on oxidized frames.

I don’t agree necessarily with up stroke is the cleaning and down stroke the rinsing. At least not with what I experience in my area. There seems to be tree sap, bug whatever, and all kinds of stuff on the glass. You have to get your motions right here, or that crap will stay towards the top of the glass, and won’t rinse down right. You need to do a “7” type motion to get the stuff off the top, then you can rinse down.

I don’t know what everyone else experiences, but the idea you can wet/clean on the up stroke, and simply rinse off on the down stroke doesn’t happen for me. That’s never even worked for bird poop, which melts off about the easiest I have seen. It always takes a few strokes to get everything loosened off the glass so it’s rinsable.


I’d say that if you have enough water flow, simply use an over the top rinse solution in combination with the original fan or pencil jets in the middle of the brush.

Seems to me all that water coming out of the lower bar would be wasted and miss the window except for when the brush is high up on the glass. In other words, you’ll be spending a lot of time wetting down the bottom frame and the wall of the property below.