If you have a question about commercial pressure cleaning I can help you out.
I have been doing it for 25 years
Ask , I will likely answer by video
Good to know.
Ron is now my “go to pressure washing guy”
So my first question (and it doesnt have to be in video) is, do pressure washers need to be winterized? I stop using mine around Dec- March. While its just sits there for the winter do I need to any type of maintenance to it?
Thx
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rao7FG9apZU]YouTube - Winterizing pressure washing units[/ame]
Hello Ron …
I do have a question about pressure washers. I do not have a very expsensive one but it gets the job done for what i need it to do. The other day i went to go use it and hooked all lines up and went to use it. Well it did not work so i took off the tip and purged it a couple of times then put the tip back on and it worked.Everytime i go to spray i have to purge it and put the tip on again and again.
I do not know if it is called the loader /pump.I am thinking it is one of those and if i take it in to get repaired it would probably cost me more than to just replace it with a new one since i only paid $ 300.00 for it.
It is a karcher that puts out like 2500 - 3000 and i think the gpm might be 2.5 - 3.0.
I do not use it to clean walk ways or anything like that more or less to wash my vehicles and sand limmo.
So maybe you might have a idea of what the problem is.
Thank you for your time
Brien
If i’m reading it right your getting debris caught in the tip? Do you have a Screen before the pump?
I have a freind of mine thats an expert at equipment coming to read your post.
I know a bit about equipment but I have shop people that repair the machines when they are down. This is not one expertise I claim to have.
Russ Johnson or another freind of mine will chime in shortly
Ron, I frequently do lakeside homes/estates and I get frustrated trying to get all the spiderwebs off the siding. It seems to take hours of rinsing. The vinyl gets clean first go round but the webs take forever to get off. Any suggestions?
Buy one of those duster/spider web brushes that fits an extension pole. Before you get the house wet, take a few minutes to remove all the webs with the brush first. When they’re dry - they’re a piece of cake to remove. Once they’re wet it’s near impossible.
Please keep in mind I do not do homes, I do use a soft brush to remove webs from under canopys on commercial work just like we wash said. It takes a fews minutes, i have another trick for repeat customers to help control. How ever in some states not legal with out licenced. Using prevention chems will reduce the problem on the next wash. You can suggest to the customer after your done to have pest control man spray those areas. Its a responsible suggestion, if you dont they will be back in short order.
Have another one for you Ron,
I think my injector or proportioner is bad. Check this video out. Its bad quality.[taken on my cell phone]
I get draw but when I release the trigger, water shoots back through the injector into my bucket of soapy water and blowing off my hose strainer. I noticed a small amount of rubber particles inside the proportioner. Im thinking blown out O ring.
Any thoughts?
Im not a tech guy but will have the answer shortly.
Cap the built-in injector and use an in-line.
This latest addition to GP’s chemical injector line is a new “Hi-Draw” model, capable of a 20%* draw rate. These injectors feature an operating pressure of 4,500 PSI and a temperature rating of 1900. Sized at 3/8 inch M X M, NPT, stainless steel orif
Call Bob and give him the password (“Pony”) and he will sell you one of his no-spring injectors. They’re not on the website.
Thad, when you say cap the injector and use an inline, does that mean i can hook up the hi-draw injector right after the built in injector without any problems?
Yeah, just stick the injector on the pump output. For a better draw rate with long hose runs put a jumper hose between the pump and the injector.
Doesnt Bob just get them from water cannon, i think they are like 7 dollars at water cannon.
You need and o-ring for the one you have.
Hi Ron, or anybody else who could answer.
I do a share of house washing and I have problems with old run-off stains on stucco homes. I use a typical mix with 10% sh and simple cherry, but sometimes that doesn’t get some runoff stains out.
I recently had a home that had some of the runoff stains come out with just chem, some came out with chem and then needed high pressure, and then some didn’t come out at all. These stains I talk of are the ones were dirt has just run off the window ledges for years.
Should these stains always come out, or do some stains “eat into the paint”. I have a lot of trouble looking at a customer and trying to explain why some of the runoff stains came out and some didn’t!
My business is mainly cleaning roofs in Tampa Florida
But no one I know around here uses Simple Cherry.
They use TSP in small amounts with their bleach.
TSP is a far better cleaning chemical then Simple Cherry.
You might want to give it a try ?
In the good old days, back on the old Delco Board, Bleach, TSP, and Sodium Hydroxide was all mixed together as an all purpose cleaning mix.
Thousands of cleaners who went before us cleaned on a daily basis with that mixture, before Internet Shills convinced us we “needed” anything else.
I’m going to have to change my avitar
Your Karcher has a sticky valve mine does it once in awhile. When it happens I will run some pump conditioner through it and sometime it will clear it out otherwise it s a trip to the shop for a $35.00 repair.
Here’s a couple of ‘couples’ pics.
Nice work on the pics guys.
I’ll give something stronger a try, like tsp and bleach, but I’d rather stay away from sodium hydroxide. Its sounds like nasty stuff. How much different is it from potassium hydroxide? I have that in the form of Bob’s f-13 gutter grenade…
Should every runoff stain be able to come out without ruining the siding or paint?
