I know noone's gonna like this: Mineral Stain Removal technique

I was given a huge task of removing mineral stains that came from windows above on a high-rise condo…luckily they had a balcony :slight_smile: There were six panes, 3’x7’.

This wasn’t just a ring or a line of staining. It was a mess.

I did a trial spot by hand using MDR and a rag and didn’t make a dent in 5 minutes.

This needed to get mechanized. So I bought 1 palm sander and a pack of the blue Scotch-Bright pads (non-scratching, great for glass). Viola, a window restored in less than 5 minutes! Just wet the glass, wet the pad, apply the cleaner to the pad, and buzz over 3-4 times, rinse and repeat if needed. Depending on the stain I’ve had to use either MDR or Ettore’s Spot Remover.

I quote $15-$20 per window restoration.

I told a window cleaning buddy of mine and he was petrified at the idea. I showed him in person and still the same reaction. I’ve done a dozen windows without incident!

Haters welcome :wink:

Photo Feb 13, 10 53 50 AM by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/59459813@N05/]VuRenu, on Flickr

I dont know anything about stain removal but that price seems to be REALLY LOW.

I agree.

How long did it take to restore the 6 3’X7’ panes, Garrett?

The 3’x7’ panes took about 15 minutes each. Of course, I charged about $40 a pane for those being larger…and experimental :wink:

Some window stains came out in 1 pass, others up to 4 passes. For each pass I go up and down, then back and forth, slowly.

Shower door stains are something else, though, I haven’t had much luck yet getting those out.

I would not use the blue 3m pads, they’re not safe for glass. Only use the white 3m pads.

Good for you Garrett, way to get innovative. However, I agree with Micah…and also, how much mess did you make with that?

You may be able to get the same result using OneRestore without any kind of buffing, or use CC550. You would be done in 4 to 5 minutes, no messes and charge 40 to 80 per pane…or more.

Chemical restoration is one step behind buffing it out with a glass renew system, and thats one step away from replacing the glass.

I price mine based on that line of reasoning, not how long it takes me.

Glad it worked out for you though, it feels good to come up with a solution to a problem don’t it!

There’s really no mess at all! Maybe 5 splashes/spots on a nearby pane and that can be controlled. Pricing is always funny and always in the “salesmanship” behind it. But there’s a home I’m doing next week where they want 11 windows done! It was hard enough for them to swallow $165, no less $440 if that’s what you’re quoting. Good for you if you can sell it!

I’ll look into the white pads and that OR/CC550

I sell it as what it is, a restoration…along with the recommendations on how to keep it from happening again.

I also see it this way:
If they don’t like the price they could do it themselves. In fact, if they choke on the price, and they do sometimes, I ask them if they would like me to help walk them through it when they do it…and let them know what they will need.

There are not many people who know how to restore glass, and do it well and know the dangers/risks involved with it. That is what they are paying for…your expertise and experience, your insurances and assurances/guarantees. You are there to solve a problem, and if you solve that problem well then you have saved them more money down the line.

Worth every penny in my book.

What is MDR ?
I googled it and got 3 different products with MDR

I use Bio-Clean Water Stain Remover using similar techeques

Use the White Non Abrasive Pad as well… (I did a test with a similar blue and green pad, both supposed to be safe and they scratched the glass )

Price is a bit low I think, as well

MDR = Mineral Deposit Remover from Titan Labs. There a quite a few different stain removers out there. We carry OneRestore and BioClean in the van and Slayer powder in my tool bag.
Whatever you use isn’t as important as making sure you explain to the customer the point Tory made - it’s restoration not cleaning. As such it merits more money to do the work.

Thanks Tony,
always a great answer! Ps… I just relooked at the WCR screen, and voila there it was… missed it the first time, duh…

By the way, what is in the Slayer Powder or how does it differ from the MDR or the Bio Clean, please and thanks.

<a href=“http://shopwindowcleaner.com/soap-chemicals/stain-removal/slayer-powder-by-mr-squeegee.html?a_aid=mistersqueegee&a_bid=cc9f2458” target=“_top”><img src=“http://www.shopwindowcleaner.com/affiliate/accounts/default1/banners/hard-water-slayer-powder.jpg” alt=“” title=“” width=“220” height=“220” /></a><img style=“border:0” src=“http://www.shopwindowcleaner.com/affiliate/scripts/imp.php?a_aid=mistersqueegee&a_bid=cc9f2458” width=“1” height=“1” alt=“” /> It’s a powdered stain remover that I make exclusively for WCR.
Since it’s a powder it can be easily carried w/ you and you can even sprinkle a little on your strip washer. I do that when coming behind a house that was power washed and didn’t have the windows cleaned. Otherwise you can use it on a white pad, steel (bronze) wool, or any other way you would use MDR, A-1, BioClean, etc.

I agree with you totally. Use the white non-abbrassive pads you can buy from any wondow cleaning catalog. When combined with bioclean they will not scratch and most of the time it works great, not to mention the minty smell :). Also, though a bit harsh, CLR has helped me a time or 2…

I just received a 4-pack of Slayer Powder at a great price!

Hope you enjoy it Larry!