Is there a big diff between traditional and wfp?

This is how i operate, I give the customer a quote.

So at the end of the day they are not paying me to remove anything with a blade so it wont get done. I will point it out to them as I am cleaning the glass (if possible) and ask if they would like it removed for $xx.xx additional to the original quote. I have been cleaning windows for coming up to 18 years and I will NOT do a CCU for the price of a standard clean. I ask during the quote if they have noticed any construction debris on the glass if so I ask if they would like it removed most of the time when they find out the difference in price they opt not to have it done this time, but since they are made aware of it they normally ask about it in their next clean.

Since I got my WFP set up last year I have loved it on most external glass, saved so much time and effort even on ground work (although I don’t use on SF ever.) I also think you maybe underestimating the power of DI water, i was on a roof on Friday cleaning solar panels when I came across bat crap all over them, having only taken up my wfp i was thinking oh here we go gonna have to go back to the van and gab something else, but just kept rubbing and it all dissolved away, which is saying something. Around here the crap from these fruit bats is very acidic and strips paint from cars and homes.

[MENTION=24315]Steve076[/MENTION] That bid sheet is great! I may have to " borrow" that format if you don’t mind…Well done!

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Technically using both methods properly will result in clean windows, so no real difference.

The difference is down to methods, equipment and costs.

Learn how to clean windows traditionally and more importantly - how to run and build a business.

Then assess your finances to improve and expand your cleaning methods by using WFP.

WFP is more expensive, in terms of equipment outlay, on-going costs and insurances (motor insurance especially) - your business needs to be able to sustain the extra costs of it.

Help yourself to the bid sheet. :slight_smile:

So how much has to be on the window to call the customer over an add an additional charge . I Will charge xtra for screen burn if it’s really bad, but a few paint speckles no .

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There is a great resource for pre-training yourself in water fed window cleaning at

It also can help you get much faster -

The difference between traditional and water fed is not the pole - people use poles with traditional- it’s the brush. Learning and discerning brushes is valuable - just like this conversation about white, blue and green pads.

The brush bristles are doing the agitation / removal (replacing the T-Bar) … The jets are doing the rinse (replacing the squeegee).

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I think the definition of ‘traditional’ gets stretched here, and the definition of ‘water fed’ gets compressed.

In my opinion (impression), traditional window cleaning is performed with a T-bar and a Squeegee, whilst water fed window cleaning is performed with a brush.

When we pulled out a blade, it was because the glass needed more attention … Like a ‘restoration service’ - so that the next time we cleaned, we could just use our normal window cleaning tools and get our speed back to normal.

And remember, we all clean the inside glass surface the same way - overspray, silicon, fly poo, etc.

I would suggest I t’s about choosing the fastest tool on the day, and minimizing the risks of injury.

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I have yet to find a house that has just a few paint speckles, either their is none or there is enough to make the job take twice as long. When quoting dirty glass you can’t see whats on it, if I was to give a quote based on the chance i may have to scrape i would have to at least double my prices and get no work.

If there was just a few speckles on 1 lonely pane i would remove it however if there are a few speckles on every pane or most of the panes its extra.


Thanks for all the feedback, it’s much appreciated. What I have taken from all this is that I’m best just sticking to traditional for a year or two and then consider progressing onto the wfp after that. There doesn’t seem to be a huge difference in speed or outcome for me to consider switching at moment.

By the way, I’m from Dundee in Scotland and have a round in Perth and a round in Stonehaven.

Thanks again,


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I have another quick question if I may? (I’m really away to show how much of a novice I am here). Whilst doing one of my rounds, a fellow window cleaner stopped me in the street and asked if I would be interested in taking some work from him for free, of course I agreed as I had just spent a few thousand on the current run. I met up with him a few days later and he showed me what he was handing over. One of the buildings is right in the town centre with all the windows being around 30ft from the ground. My ladder is around 30ft when fully extended but the problem I see myself facing is once I have it extended to that height, how do I get it back down again? There is no rope on it as I’ve looked at videos on YouTube and they all have ropes fitted (can I fit a rope?). Maybe I’m missing something and am just being silly but I really can’t see a way for me to bring it down again.

Apologies if this is a stupid question.



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Barry, from my experience and for the type of window cleaning I do, my water fed pole has helped immensely. Could I do any job I have the traditional way? 99%. Safely? Maybe 95%. But everyone has different circumstances.

As far as putting a cord on your ladder- that is definitely the safe and easy way to get a 30-footer up and down. There needs to be pulley on one of the rungs of the piece that stays grounded, so you can “connect” both sections.
It isn’t impossible to get one of them up and down without a rope. (I’ve done it, but by no means encourage it. Very scary and dangerous at full extension)


Are you saying you have an extension ladder with out a rope? One like this
Werner 24 ft. Aluminum Extension Ladder with 225 lb. Load Capacity Type II Duty Rating-D1224-2 at The Home Depot

But just missing the rope? Tie your own rope to the fly section of ladder.

A picture would help… just a thought :slight_smile:


Barry, I just started window cleaning in May, and I got a WFP in August. I double my hourly earnings the first time I used it. Not to undercut what others say, but we are all different and we all adjust to things differently, so don’t automatically assume you have to wait 2 years to get s WFP, it will likely benefit you from day 1 (and keep you off that 30 footer :+1:)

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New 0000 steel wool won’t scratch the glass… All you need is water and some soap. But no matter what abrasive took you use you must use caution.

Jeremiah, Advantage Window Cleaning
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The difference with WFP is the safety aspect… Huge. The other is with two plus story buildings, time savings is AMAZING!

BTW Barry, I love Islay Single Malts and Golf. So Scotland pretty much just Rocks!! :smile:

Jeremiah, Advantage Window Cleaning
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