The unger DI system is costly, if you buy a single unit that only has 6 liters of resin, you will burn thru that super fast if you hit tds over 100 which you will.
IMO your trying to run before you can crawl, sure you can get a WFP and do the outsides, but your still going to have to clean the insides of the windows.
Spend much more time practicing and watching videos on proper technique rather than worrying about investing hundreds of thousands of dollars on a tool that is situational at best.
I havenāt heard good things about Ammonia on tinted glass, so we havenāt touched it with a 10 ft pole.
@Cwcleaning
I havenāt read your full post, but I found out from someone else on the forum years ago if youāre using a channel with T rubber itās better to have the rubber 1 slot higher than the slowest slot, itāll help with fantom streaks, IDK about streaks with the leading edge.
We use wagtails for everything. I have my guys cut in the top edge and get it clean and dry and then they straight pull and itās fine, sometimes old channels will get knicked up and that may effect the cleaning but for the most part wagtails work well. Just make sure you donāt have more than a 1/16th-1/8 of an inch hanging past the channel.
I made this mistake starting out. NEVER AGAIN! lol
I found brass to be MUCH harder because I always sucked at making clips work. and it took a lot longer when I had to change rubber out. Plus it seems like I can train employees faster on wagtails than traditional squeegees like Ettoreās
@sethfenster
It seems like itās a lot harder to control an Excelerator on a pole than the type of wagtail I have. Iāve tried fanning with an Excelerator and it was tricky.
LOL
I know what you mean. Truthfully tho, squeegees do more damage to tint than anything. Look at all of the scratches and lines in any tinted door or window. I try to spot clean with rags as much as possible.
The only way a squeegee will damage tint if it is used incorrectly, ammonia on the other hand can strip the tint clean off the glassā¦
And IDK what happened to the comment that was in my email about lines that dry on the glass with ammonia, they might not be visible in your current light but they will in some lighting conditions.
Hey CWcleaning, did you get all that? 
Honestly, it takes practice. On the job, or off the job. The squeegeeing technique is personal preference in my opinion. I can basically use the exact technique on 95% of standard residential and commercial locations. Again, itās not how I do it, itās based on your skill level based on your own comforts. At some point, youāll want to be good at many squeegeeing techniques; because youāll never know when youāll need them.
As for water fed, my recommendation if youāre starting out possibly on a budget, is to get really confident in traditional first. Reason being, for hydrophobic glass sceneries, I hit it with a combo. Yepā¦ much to learn; and Iām still learning about all parts of this business after a decade into it!
I knowā¦ Iām a hack. 
If you are planning or need to use WFP I would stay away from resin only filter systems unless you TDS is consistently below 100. Weāre typically at 130 minimum and Iāve encountered 660 with a well water client. The well water client burned through a 1/4 cubic ft of resin in one job to the tune of $75. But even in the city my resin only system goes through resin quickly. If I had it to do over again I would spend more initially on a multi-stage system that has the ability to be operated in RO, RO/DI or DI only as circumstances dictate. Zero pure is highly regarded, check out the videos from @Luke. If you are planning on running more than one pole in RO or RO/DI mode most systems will need a pump as the RO membrane reduces the flow rate significantly.
So Iām curious, where is it that ladders are not allowed to be used? What do builders, electricians and roofers use?
If there is a 2nd story window that I have trouble reaching with my extension ladderā¦ I will just levitate and clean it.
Try using less pressure on the glass when you pulldown.a lot of times that will make pull down lines much less of an occurrence
Also check your angle as you pull.
Ya good question ! It seems a little odd , not being able to use ladders.
The Moerman probably isnāt the ideal starter squeegee, needs more pressure, more soap (more slip)ā¦ one reason I ditched it & to bootā¦ Iām not keen on their rubber that comes with it.
Start with a new rubber - always. Itās not worth even trying to get it to work & youāll lose so much time backwards & forwards to your work vehicle trying to figure it out. Work it out later when you have more time if need be.
Is your channel bent? Eye it from the end, just to make sure.
Make sure you have decent slip so the rubber glides, any lines shows you have a problem with the rubber, itās either got muck on it or a hair, or nicked (change it or flip it) & it needs cleaning with a sponge or cloth.
Straight pulling you need to remove the liquid behind the rubber. Some people use their finger, edge of rubber, a towel so that they can place the rubber in a short dry space on the window before pulling. Personally I tap the rubber on the glass, you need to get rid of the excess water behind the rubber before you pull the squeegee across.
Do not touch the any sides of the window, this will cause dragging/skipping or lines.
The reason you are getting more lines on the downstroke is because of the change of angle of the squeegee, look at how near the handle angle changes pulling left to right or up & down. Usually you hold the handle out more when pulling down as opposed to left to right.
Make sure youāre soap make-up gives you lots of slip. Put neat soap on your applicator then try it with your normal mix & see the difference. One reason GG4 is not liked by manyā¦ but with experience you learn to work with it.
Do not put too much pressure on the squeegee, beginners mistake, hold the handle with the same pressure you would to grip a 5 yr olds hand.
When you learn to fan, most of these issues go away.
Probably a lot to digest here as everyone has chimed in one way or other.
I personally think itās your solution/area you are in.
You are either mixing too much suds or too little (you will notice binding on glass) Finding that nice ballance for your area during the time of year will help you as a window cleaner and really only comes with experience. IF you are trailing too much, you need to find a thinner solution, or tap the channel on the glass more. An Alcohol based product like Unger Glass Glide helps evaporation properties as well as a high quality soap. Experiment with different soaps, try Ecover, Myers, Glass Gleam 4 or 3, and use those to see what you like.
Good Luck
Scaffolding and/or lifts is the first choice and ladders have to be approved by the Project Manager as a last resort, is my experience when on a CCU project. More ladders used towards the finale of the project for punch-list/touch-up stuff.
Many places especially CCUās standard ladders are not allowed to be used as a ladder is a access tool not a work platform.
Generally in those instances a platform step ladder would be used.
Thanks all! Still working on some things with pole technique, looking into that wagtail.
Our WFP system has arrived. 3k for the system, based on the water in our area we needed a 3-stage filter. Average TDS is about 230, but if you go outside the city just 20 minutes the well water is very hard.
Encountered some issues with just poling, mainly lack of clearance to pole at 2nd or 3rd stories. They build these houses so close together you can literally hand your neighbor a pie through your open windows. Or the house is on a cliff of limestone, no flat areas to work in, pole is always hitting something on the pull down.
That being saidā¦ havenāt even used the WFP system yet because the quick connect valve is leaking like a siv, canāt get any pressure up the pole. Purchased a 3stage Phaser Pure Water system. (Hope itās not a piece of garbage, pretty ticked I payed 3k for this thing and canāt use it because this cheap plastic valve is leakingā¦ came highly reviewed so I dunnoā¦) only found one supplier who would ship to Canada which is why I had to buy the Phaserā¦ (sadly windowcleaner.com wonāt ship to me, I did email to ask and they said no.)
Thatās why I made my own WFP system. I put it all together for just under $1300. Yes it has a pump & remote control switch with a combo battery backup or line power. 2nd season nowš¤š¾
I am looking for some advice on my first wfp system.Could you describe how you built yours as I am having a hard time finding a remote 12v switch localy (Canada)
Thanks
WSC
