Im just in practicing stages and seems like every time i cut dry spot to start my passes it leaves streaks. What em i doing wrong? And when fanning seems like my rubber flipps and messes me all up?
If your rubber is flipping while you fan it means your solution needs more slip, your squeegee needs less pressure, or your turns are too tight. Not sure what you mean with the first part about cutting in and leaving streaks.
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While i do other methods you know when you cut top and a side with end of your squeeg?
Yes. So your blade is leaving streaks in what should be a clean strip while you cut in?
Yessir
I tried dog earing the channel was a tad bit better but still lines
Either too much pressure or its a burnt blade. Try it a few times over with varying degrees of pressure. If you find a comfortable pressure that keeps it from streaking, you’ve solved your problem. If the pressure isn’t the problem, try flipping or replacing your rubber.
Copy that thanks man appreciate that
No problem. Let me know how it works out for you.
Dude got it the fanning down now practice for couple hours.
Worked alot better with tad bit more soap. When you carry solution in your work belt how do you mix it? Or is that secret?
I have a proprietary solution that I developed with input from my cousin who is a chemist. That solution will go with me to the grave.
Regular dish soap still works just fine though. Pretty much any dish soap will do. Dawn, Palmolive, Gain and Ajax seem to be local favorites.
My preferred mix ratio is one tablespoon of soap per gallon of water. I repurposed a fuel stabilizer float bottle for my soap measuring. 1/2 fluid oz. is the same as 1 tablespoon measured out. Soap doesn’t work well by itself in a float bottle, so I would mix it 50/50 with water and measure out 1 fluid ounce of the diluted soap for each gallon wash water.
For my bottle of solution I would fill a gallon jug with water, then add one ounce of my diluted soap to the jug. I would carry the jug with a funnel on the truck to top off my bottle whenever it runs low. I only use the bottle method working indoors. The perfect bottle size for me is between 16 and 24 ounces. More than that and it seems too bulky, less and I’d be running out halfway through the house interior. Outdoors I still carry a bucket with 2 gallons of wash water.
Hope this helped.
With soap, just play around with the amount until you like it. However, too much soap might be super sweet glide, BUT if you miss a spot, it’ll dry ugly. Less soap = less problems with misses. I use more on restaurants because a) I’m in there every other week and b) greasy/sugary fingerprints are a pain in the butt.
Although my trick is to use my wet sill wiping microfiber to prescrub the fingerprints and it saves time from having to go back over them a second time.
That seems like a lot of soap but I’ve never measured. Maybe it isn’t. Humm.
My preferred method is to fill my bucket up to 3 gallons, put 3/4 oz gg4 in and then fill my squirt bottle. Then to the bottle I add a drop of soap for regular cleans, 3-5 drops of soap for greasy restaurants.
not sure if you mean how do you mix it physically or what the formula is.
as above there are tons of mixes that will do the job.
physically create your mix in a 5 gal pail with a lid. fill your squirt bottle from that.
Hey sorry to bother you I have an odd ? So my inlaws house has log accent siding and they spray stain on it every year and the guy got some on the windows which are tempered glass so we tested a spot with soap and steel wool and it made glass foggy and little tiny scratches it was 0000* steel wool is this unusual? Or could it have been fd ?
Full disclosure: I do not have extensive experience working with tempered glass.
But here’s my $.02
Scratches would have to be from fabricating debris, cause 0000 wool would never harm good glass. You my try using a solvent like Goof Off or Goo Gone on the stains since a physical abrasive looks to be a no-go. Obviously test in inconspicuous areas before moving on to anything else. The retarded thing about tempered glass is that one window could be fine and the next a total nightmare. You just won’t know until you test it. Which is why I usually never touch tempered glass with anything but a wet mop and squeegee.
sounds like it might be coated.
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Thanks for the input i kinda feel its coated with maybe uv stuff. But anyways wet mop and squeegee is probably only thing im using on temp. Glass lol
How do you identify your “burnt” blades?
I’ver recently switched to hard black diamond rubber in a liquidator and its my first go with the harder stuff. If I get to many lines and I feel my solution has adequate slip I apply more pressure and ultimately change the blade. Do you need more pressure depending on rubber hardness?
Yes hard rubber does require more pressure. Not too much more though. Just experiment with less or more force on each pull until you find the sweet spot. Your brain and hand should be able to adapt to the new input in less than a few minutes.
