Question about french wins and squeezees

Hi there

I’ve been having a lot of houses with french windows, and I remember seeing in this forums that somebody used to cut his channels to size to speed things up, which seems like a great resources.
Now, my question is, how is the best or proper way to cut channels ? depends on the material ? brass, SS ?
What about cutting the rubber with no special tools? what household item will work?

please let me know what you think about this

thanks a lot
Carlos.

PS: off topic but makes no sense to start a new thread for this only: I bought an E-250 cargo van no to long ago and I’m researching what is the best way to lay the plywood floor. Create the template seems the most difficult, but I’ve seen on the web some guy that lays construction paper, the brown one, and cut the shapes and tape them together, and then lay that over a piece of plywood and translate the template. Any of you guys has done this ? if you don’t mind I would like to hear what you have done.

Here you go.

//youtu.be/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_kM1dFrATk

[QUOTE=puntadigital;9374]Hi there

I’ve been having a lot of houses with french windows, and I remember seeing in this forums that somebody used to cut his channels to size to speed things up, which seems like a great resources.
Now, my question is, how is the best or proper way to cut channels ? depends on the material ? brass, SS ?
What about cutting the rubber with no special tools? what household item will work.

I have used a chop saw with a metal blade. if you don’t have one a hacksaw with a new blade will work. brass is no problem but you may go though a few blades with ss.

With alot of 1st time gigs a cut to fit is nice.In a pinch you could just use a 6 or 8" sideways straight pulls of course.

The other option (can you guess)??? PURE WATER CLEANING for the exterior anyways:D

Scissors.

What is the purpose of a plywood floor?

I have an OEM rubber mat in my E-350.

Thanks guys fr your input.

To Craig:

I’m looking at the possibility of getting into pure water, but I’m not getting the whole thing I believe. The first time you have to get nose to the glass, scrape and whatnot, and theeeeeen the next time is ready for WFP ?

I also don’t understand, or cannot figure it out a way to calculate how much will it cost me to run a WFP. I’m aware that depends on how much you use it, but I do really see a excellent expansion opportunity for growing my business, and get into commercial once and for all to at least secure the slow season with some work.

thanks again you guys and keep the sharing going :smiley:

Im sure many of the fine distributors would be happy to give you the run down as far as cost etc.Personally your doing yourself & your clients a great dis-service by not having this.

BIG friggin time saver Stud;)

Insulation, sound-proofing, and to install anchors to hold equipment in place without drilling the floor

Will you be securing the plywood to the sides then?

What are your insulation and sound-proofing requirements?

When I watch this video as a guitar player I keep thinking, “Watch your finger or your gonna cut it off.”

Either that or “Don’t knock over that drink with your hacksaw.”

He gets close to doing both!:eek:

Don is Cool.

Plywood will be screwed/nailed to a series of 1x2 or 1x3 lumber sandwiched in between the plywood and the floor of the van.

Sound-proofing requirements??not much,just being able to answer my phone inside without make the caller believe that I’m in the middle of a tsunami.

I cut the channel with a hack saw on the tailgate of my truck , then I have a small file to debur . For cutting the rubber I use my triumph mk3, rubber out laying on a flat surface, soapy or not it cuts like butter.

make sure you leave a 1/8 gap between the ply

that covers expansion

I used to lay teak decking on the superyachts. Most flooring will buckle with the heat & water, it also causes it to swell if the right wood with the correct gap isn’t used in an enclosed area.
As for using ply to anchor a fixed tank - think again. Ionics have crash tested many of their van mounts in a promotional exercise. Get it done properly - all the way through the metal. Even a 30 mph crash will have the tank ripping out of the floor & through the bulk head (assuming you have one) unless certain measures are taken. I’m not an expert in truck mounts - I suggest you use one though & make sure your insurance covers the modification.

http://www.ionicsystemsusa.com/safety.html

Thanks for the suggestions on both matters gentlemen :wink:

This is not always the case. Some windows are relatively clean or do not have a ton of junk stuck on them that needs nose to glass attention. But either way if you have to do this on a home you do not have to do it to all windows. Only the ones that need that much attention. Some guys like to do nose to glass 1st time around. This way they know if they are to come back in 6 months, there will be little to no need for nose to glass at all. So if you break it down to an hourly rate heres and example.
You clean at home @ $50 per hour. Take 2 hours for nose to glass. That’s $100. You then come back in 6 months to clean them again. You now WFP and you complete the job in 1 hour. You now made $100 per hour. And that’s how your pay should stay for now on with that home. Of course every once in a while you will have to nose to glass some of the windows. But if they are maintained, nose to glass will be very little.

Cost goes down as you use the machine. If you are making money with the tool on a regular basis there is no cost. Overhead on something that makes you cash is nothing. I bought my entire set up last year for $5000 with poles. Money was 1/2 made back 3 months after I got the machine. Now it could have been sooner but I just had issues with my machine. I have an RO/DI so my machine cost more then a DI set up. So covering the cost was a little harder. I started using my machine on my big number beach homes. Homes that took me 6 to 8 hours last year now take 3 to 4 hours. These homes are $2000 jobs. I have done at a minium 1 per month this season. The machine is paid off and has paid for itself in time savings easy. The cost of my filter replacement? Don’t know, have not had to replace them yet. TDS comming out of my machine is still readying 1 to 0. When it starts beeping at 10, then I’ll let you know. Machine is used 2 times per week this year at least. But like craig said, talk to a manufacuture they can give run down estimates on tds and how it effects your filters life and usefulness.

Good info there J. Thanks

Carlos

Why do you want to put down a plywood floor? We have always purchased rubber matting and cut it to fit. Works great and easy to clean.
For the channels and rubber use a hack saw for the channel and a utility knife
for the rubber.

Steve
[URL=“http://www.TheJanitorialStore”]

I don’t want to put down a plywood floor - if you read the replies, I’m against any wooden floor especially for use with anchoring. The way they do it in the UK is spread fiberglass or protectant, this will do much more than a mat. Pure water is highly corrosive. It can be done quite easily DIY.

My name is Carlos too, I think that was directed to me :smiley:

And the plywood idea was to do it on a budget and to reduce road noise.
I’ve covered the roof with 1/4 inc luan (sp?) and fiberglass insulation in between plywood and roof. Show a difference, and there’s plywood 3/4inch really rough shaped around the wheel wells and that has helped a lot. Planning to do that in a future.