Spray Bottles

Hi there

I was wondering if you guys can comment in what kind of spray bottles do you use and what you’ve used in the past too, and tell me why it didn’t work.

I don’t have a problem with the Rubbermaid ones you can get at walmart or HD, the become noisy at the trigger after a few days but no big deal. The problem is what to use to hold stronger chemicals like SafeRestore or even F13, or GutterZap. I’ve used the gray/silver ones from HD that are supposed to be “resistant” to chemicals, but I did put some diluted F13 in one of those and the next day it broke at the neck of the bottle.

I’d like to buy the Spray Bottle On a Belt from Unger but seems a little overpriced at almost $30/piece

thanks
Carlos

I don’t use spray bottles. I have never been fond of mist and “spray” when it comes to working with chemicals. I always will either use the manufactures bottle or if it is to big I will use a smaller bottle and then replace the chemical back to the original package. I prefer to apply chemicals with a cloth, sponge, or wetbar.

I will say that I have tried the nicest of backpack sprayers, pump-up sprayers, and spray bottles even with Viton seals, but nothing works with SafeRestore stored in it, unfortunately… they all have to be flushed after use.

That said, I use the Echo pump-up sprayer systems (and the Hudson Constructo) and I really like them, but for a spray bottle I have been satisfied with the Home Depot ZEP bottles.

If you plan to spray SafeRestore: make sure you are using a mask/ ventilator. It doesn’t say anything about this in the MSDS, but particularly in a shower stall, you’ll know what I mean. Even outside though, if you are spraying and there is even a small breeze, you’ll find out quick . The MSDS makes it sound like it’s just the most mild stuff around-- like one step above toothpaste-- it’s not. But it is a great product, just use it carefully!

For SafeRestore or other descalers, I use a clear squeeze bottle with flip-up lid. In this way, I can better control the flow of chemical. A spray bottle creates a mist that travels…

I have purchased three – all for under $20 – for use with cleaning solutions, not restoration chemicals.

I also use a 32 ounce Rubbermaid squeeze bottle with flip-up lid for my cleaning solution, in conjunction with an Unger ErgoTec BottleHolder

I use standard 32 oz. spray bottles that I get from Lowe’s to spray F-13 and Safe Restore (with resperator mask & goggles of course). For a while I would leave the chemicals in the spray bottle (without flushing) but got tired of the spray mechanisms going bad.

I found that I really don’t have to empty and flush the whole bottle in order to preserve the spray mechanism. That is if I make sure the bottle will be kept in an upright position at all times during storage.

I simply remove the spray mechanism from the bottle and flush it by pumping tap water through it until I feel it has been completely flushed. I place the sprayer back onto the bottle with or without the leftover chemical in the bottle and the sprayer does not get damaged during storage.

I do pour left-over Safe Restore back into the big bottle but with F-13 it has been mixed with water so I don’t pour it back into the big bottle. So far I’ve not had any damage to the spray mechanism with this simple method.

Great idea. I’ll be trying that out… I wish I could adapt that to pump-up sprayers!

Thanks for all the responses.

To clarify :

Spray bottles for cleaning solution only - I used them indoors to avoid carrying buckets.

I agree with the mist factor when using strong chemicals.

Curt, please check your PM.

Thanks everybody.

I don’t have a problem with spraying outdoors but the flip-top bottle does make sense for applying Safe Restore onto shower enclosure glass. I absolutely hate having to use Safe Restore in shower enclosures because of the risk of damaging the finish on surrounding laquer coated brass framework or fixtures. I think I’m going to use the flip top bottle instead of spray bottle the next time I have to use Safe Restore in a shower enclosure.

Isn’t SR supposed to be “safe” on the other surfaces ?

Have you had bad experiences so far ?

I think EaCo Chem really believes that is true, but it’s not.

SR will damage chrome finishes, totally eat through aluminum with enough dwell time and actually take anodized finishes off. My favorite way to apply is to spray onto the center of my work area (at full strength of course, and on dry glass) and then work it firmly with a white pad. Then I use a blade to take it off and see what kind of results I’m getting. If the glass has gotten too bad, you’ll have a really good idea after about 2 applications of the process I described. I would also warn against using bronze wool to work SafeRestore. You will leave green stains on marble, travertine, etc wherever the reacting bronze fibers land. Especially if you set the clump of wool you are working with down for a sec. I do enjoy using the T-bar with a stainless steel wool sleeve with SafeRestore though… you can really work the deposits off that way.

If you leave it on the laquer coated finish of the frame work or fixtures too long it can damage the paint/laquer/finish (or even the glass itself). The trick is to rinse it quickly and thoroughly so this won’t happen.

I did do a shower where the laquer coated brass may have gotten damaged. The laquered brass was damaged on the exterior of the shower too (where I didn’t use Safe Restore) so I can’t definitely say that the Safe Restore did the damage inside the enclosure.

The owner had no complaints so either the Safe Restore did not do any damage or I got really lucky with the owner not complaining that I damaged the brass framework.

It’s called Safe Restore but you have to be really careful with it or you can mess something up.

That’s good info to have in hand.

What would you consider “too long” as dwelling time ? I know that there might be some other variables into that equation, but just as a general idea.

I would do my best to keep it from contacting anything but the glass, personally, at least until the rinse. If it does get on an undesired surface, I’d change my focus to cleaning it off as soon as possible. If you get it off of anything quickly, you should be fine.

Once you get it on your hands a couple times you can kind of get a feel for the rate at which it works. Slowly at first, and then it ramps up in about 10 seconds and starts doing its thing. Highly unscientific, I know, but I treat that stuff with far more respect than the MSDS implies.

Great advice 5star!

I find it much easier to get a good, quick rinse when using Safe Restore outdoors because you can use a garden hose with jet spray nozzle.

Using Safe Restore indoors in a shower enclosure is much more risky because it’s harder to get a quick and thorough rinse.

I’d love to find a hose that could be attached to the shower head so I could have a really quick and thorough rinse. I’ve used a T-Bar/scrubber dipped in water to rinse but it’s not as good a rinse as with a hose. I’ve also used a Solo pump up garden sprayer filled with water to rinse the shower enclosure. Of course the lower glass and shower flooring can be rinsed with the shower head.

I try to apply it, scrub it, and completely rinse it off within 60 seconds or less. It sometimes goes over this but if not in direct sunlight it’s usually ok. Just make sure you don’t let it dry on the glass.

I’d love to hear input from others about there methods.

Use proper personal protection equipment.

I typically hose-down the structure and any vegetation below the window, use a squeeze bottle to dispense along the top of a pane (and mid-pane if it is tall) and run down, use a white pad to completely spread the SafeRestore over the full surface, allow to dwell 1-5 minutes (dependent upon amount of stain; never work on hot glass or in direct sun), use steel wool (clump or t-bar sleeve) to agitate the entire surface, use a scraper over the entire surface (you will know the level of success at this point due feel of the glass), then completely rinse the window and area below. Clean as usual.

I’ve also used a green plastic watering can to rinse a shower enclosure.

For property management or other move-in/move-out service, I bring a hose with nozzle right into the bathroom (attached to an exterior hose bib or laundry room washer hook-up.)

If the doors are sliders or are easily removed, I will perform the service outdoors atop my screen cleaning workstation.

So Larry, then it dries as a crust and you scrape that off ?

SafeRestore is not designed to be used dry.

I scrape when wet.