Squeegees of choice for typical storefront?

i currently use a 18 inch unger ergotec squeegee for windows the size of entrance doors or smaller, and a 30 inch 45-degree with plastic end caps squeegee for larger panes, and for poling whenever possible

im rethinking the unger because especially on the insides of some places, they have like 4 inch deep frames which mean you can never close out perfectly to the edge, theres always a little bit of water left from when the squeegee lifted in one corner or the other no matter how hard i crank down on it as im closing the swipe out.

i tried using the ettore backflip squeegee on its own, and its good for minor sills, because its kinda designed like a ledger, but because your hand is so far ‘above’ the window when im using it, my hand and wrist get really strained after a while, because of the higher center of gravity or whatever you want to call it from the window surface, at least in comparision with the ergotec handle.

it seems the closer your hand is to both the channel and the window the less strain it takes to get stuff done when your fanning, cause you are constantly sort of tweaking the pressure left to right.

i have a feeling im making no sense…lol

the other issue is those stupid push bars on doors [they are so close to the glass], the ergotec channel is one of the thinnest and its tricky trying to get it up and under the bars to get the water behind them, id love to use a all the time but i do so many doors that id always have to be using a special squeegee just for the middle part of doors, which seems like a time waster.

i tried the steccone featherlight, which was good, but i need to add some ‘grip’ to the handle with hockey tape or something cause when your hands soapy and wet its hard to put pressure where you need it without wearing out your hands by holding it really tight. it also had issues with the push bars on doors, as its slightly thicker then the ergotec channel…it was doable but not as smooth.

the other issue is size of squeegee…im thinking of using a 20 incher instead of 18 on door-size glass, just to save time…it shouldnt be too un-proportionally large for the width of the glass, fanning shouldnt be much different, just more coverage.

for those of you who use brass/stainless handles do you wrap them with some sort of tape or foam, to cushion it and to stop it slipping around when your trying to fan on glass with super-shallow edges [where the rubber tends to jump up onto the edge instead of staying on the glass].

i know a lot has been said about NOT trimming rubber, and using the regulation size, but on those shallow edged windows [where the frame is like 1-3mm higher then the glass itself], do you find it better to trim the rubber right to the edge of the channel so the channel supports the rubber better, not letting it wing back [specially with the super rounded corners on the ergotec channel] to stop it jumping on to the frame, leaving a line of water to detail?

what about storefront rubber, for the ive used rubber, though i special ordered some sorren stuff im going to get around to using soon…

in the traditional channels i used to use ettore, then i tried the ergotec [that was a nightmare, edges burnt out almost instantly], now im on to the longer lasting but not so slippy pulex, im guessing its the soft variety as that seems to be default for the distro i use.

what do you use, do you find harder compounds to last a lot longer, do you find they leave more water behind when squeegeeing over top of vinyl lettering or decals, thats one issue id IMAGINE would arise, as its more rigid…

please let me know what you’ve found to work, and what hasn’t as well, or where you think im wrong…thanks guys!

hey nice to see you on the forum Contrast… For storefront this is what i get by with: I use my 24 inch for almost everything, the doors, the windows, and to get in behind the really really close to the glass push bars i use a small (i think its 4or 5 inches) ettore with brass handle. For deeper sills i fond the is good right to the bottom of the glass, unless using a pole. You may want to try the Ettore Contour, it is able to reach into the deep sills because it flexes well, and you can adjust the tension.

As far as rubber goes, i use Ettore in my ettores and in my s, i fin that it works well. I have never used a Unger Squeegee, but I do know many of the guys on here use em, so they can’t be all that bad.
And i use mainly the plastic, pivot squeegee handles on Ettore and. I have only one brass quick change handle on that tiny squeegee. and mine came factory loaded with a rubber piece on the handle, so i have never dealt with slippage.

I am gonna be ordering a 30 inch soon for store front, and mall jobs, to speed things up. Should be able to do doors with them also.

One question for you Contrast…where did you order your Soren rubber from for your? from a distributor in Canada or the USA? if so did you end up paying duty on it or not? I really want to try that rubber in mine, since its made by Ettore and I love the Ettore Rubber.

hey crazy … [lol]

you can get soren rubbers from joe at canada cleaning supplies, just tell him you want them, then call back in 1-2 weeks [when you want to place an order anyways] to see if they are in yet [hes to busy to call you when they come in]…then order a bunch of stuff at a time.

got a question for you, with the 24 incher and the door…do you scrub the whole door, above and below the rail, then squeegee top half, put it down, get small squeegee, squeegee rail area, then use the 24 to finish it off?

doesnt that take longer then just using a 18-20 traditional squeegee for the whole thing by doing the top normally, close out AT the rail, then as you do the bottom section, torque down on the squeegee and use your free [scrubber] hand to push on the channel to help it sneak behind the rail and then finish it all in the same swipe? [thats how i do it]

a side point…isnt a 24 incher pretty big for something as narrow as a door? man you must be a REALLY good fanner, when i pivot [almost] in place, which youd need to do with that big a squeegee, dont you get some of those little triangular marks from the rubber twisting mid squeegee?

the biggest i figured would work easily, without fatigue, mistakes that need detailing, or some serious skills would be a 20 or 22…hrmm maybe its time to rethink that!

btw, crazy…how do deal with those frames that are almost flush with the glass, do you find the channel and rubber hoping up onto the frames whenever you get near the sides, at least some times? any tips for dealing with that?

also, do you use the with the plastic end caps or just the metal ones [that screeetch when they rub along alum frames]

contrast>> i use the 24 incher on the side with no push bar, doors and skinnier windows are easily and quickly cleaned with a squeegee that size. for the push bar side i use a 18 incher and do the top part and IF the push bar too close to the glass ill get my little ettore clean behind there, then fish off with 18 inch.
as far as fanning the door with a 24 inch,lets see, i start left, come across the top to the right corner, pull all the way to bottom right corner with right tip of squeegee, then i pull back up to the wet area on the left and straight down again, takes like 3 seconds and hardly no clean up. pm me if you need more details.

I only use … and not the ones with the plastic end caps

yeah i use the quick silver…no end caps

Hi Contrast,
you may find the Ettore contour handle may answer your prayers for closing out. Also the backflip squeegee is pretty good for those angles. Be warned the Ettore contour aint a clipless channel. The handles on doors have to be fanned around if you have the same similar types as me - it pays to practise, as fanning will cope with all your closing out problems except for severe box windows.
You can’t beat the for high pole work & quality.

I can fan like a demon (I guess that means real good) with a

cfp and crazy, why no end caps? have you tried that version? just curious… i used to use the metal edged, then my stuff got stolen, then when i re-bought i just got the end capped ones, and never saw a problem with them, and it makes no noise when the squegee goes up against the frames, whereas the metal did, the only down side is when you drop the squegee or something it gradually dent/scuffs up the ends, which can make it hard to get the end clip in occasionally.

just recently i tried a no end plug version, and i found the channel kept wanting to stick to the metal frames on some jobs, when the channel was angled in a certain position when im fanning and it hit the frame, it just would stop dead and grind kind of…weird, but with the plastic i never get that friction or hangup cause the plastic just slides along the sides easier.

as for fanning, i can fan well, ive been doing it for a loooong time, not to say my technique couldnt use some tweaks though… typically i only have to detail if their are ‘nightmare’ frames…

karlos…the handles i mean are like where there is a rail horizontally across the middle of the door with a push plate on it, and the rail is literally 0.5-1cm away from the glass, so you gota really push down on the channel to let it sneak behind the rail to squeegee behind it. also, a LOT of my jobs have severe window boxes on the inside…so almost nothing will close them out perfectly…i just use whatever i have and put as much even pressure as it can handle, normally you get pretty close to doing it perfect.

crazy…so when you fan a door, you dont work your way left-right-down-right-left-down, and so on? you go left-right-down to the bottom-then back up to the top left and down all the way again? hrmmm interesting, i kind of work my way gradually down the glass, more horizontal action…but that might be a bad thing cause each time you make contact with the frame [specially on nightmare frames] you risk the rubber jumping over the lip, or jamming in the crack, or something… with your way, you make contact and then hold it for a longer period of time, so if you get it right, the whole length of the downwards swipe should be detail-free…i should try it your way.

does anyone use the featherlite stuff by steccone?

Contrast, if im using the the 24 inch i go down the door like i told you, i find it faster than regular back and forth fanning, although i can do that too with the 24 inch on a door(without pushbar). If im using an 18 inch for the door as sometimes depending on the job im doing the windows next to the door are best done with an 18inch, then i fan regularly down the door.
Speed is key for me, now i want to get a 22 inch scrubber, i still use the 18 inch.

[B]Crazy [/B]- get yourself a 30" applicator, not just a 22", if you’ve got some big glass. I have cut some BIG GLASS jobs down by [I]hours [/I]with that big applicator alone.

And [B]Contrast [/B]- another option is to do the top halves of those push-bar doors, let the little part dry, and then catch the bottoms. If you have TONS of glass in the same little vestibule area, this may be the best answer.

If the area behind the pushbar must be perfect, though, this wont help with that.

And if you havent tried trimming the rubbers tight for fanning with bigger squeegees on ‘nightmare frames’, give it a shot. Its totally do-able, and you’ll love yourself for it. It also helps to remember to wipe the edges of the worst offending ones FIRST, to remove excess water before squeegeeing the glass.

Drop me a line if you want me to join you for a few hours sometime to give you a little extra training with techniques to speed things up and select the right tools for the quickest and best desired results.

yeah ive always used a 22 inch scrubber, it does save a little bit of time compared to an 18…maybe 15% or so more efficent, cept it will have less concentrated pressure, so it will take SLIGHTLY more scrubbing to get off finger prints, bird poop, etc…

i know someone who uses a 30 inch scrubber, i cant help but think…how can you dip it in the bucket so it really rinses or wets all of it, you’d have to keep a pretty high water level in a deep bucket… the other issue is it would be heavy when fully wet…but i guess it would help you build muscle…lol or cause you fatigue, not sure which… it WOULD be faster though, if you could deal with those things, maybe its worth a try!


yeah the doors with the pushbars…i want to leave the area behind it perfect, so letting it dry wouldnt work, yeah i just do the top , then as i do the bottom i push the channel up behind it and include behind the rail in my fanning of the lower section. what kind of squeegees do you use for 22+ inchers, im guessing? do you use the end capped ones or the all metal ones? any pref? yeah have noticed trimming the rubbers almost totally flush with the channels do help in some cases…

what i normally do is use the rubber stock, let the edges burn out on both sides, then cut both ends back just enough to get a new clean edge [i just use a new scraper blade, and push it into the rubber on a smooth surface, it cuts it straight if your being careful. i can normally strech the life of a rubber this way, cept then i gota deal with ‘frame jumping’ when its still the stock size…oh well

sure lets get together, im sure you’ll have some things to impart to me, ill phone you when things get a little slower, and well work something out!

Hey contrast,
no, I don’t have too many of the doors like that but lots of balcony rails. A longer channel usually sorts these out. Don’t try & close out in this section, either pull the squeegee up to close out in the top section or vice versa in the bottom section (if that makes any sense).
Severe box windows don’t need to be closed out, just leave a central line & cloth it out with one finger.
Yep, I use the aircraft alu Steccone stuff, its one of my favourites.

[B]Contrast: [/B]

Sounds good. Call me in Feb.

squeegee only for 30" and bigger. Brass or aluminum for 22" and down.

And you’re right - the 30" mop isn’t always easy to SOAK but if you use a 5 gallon pail its a piece of cake. Dip, rotate, dip. If you use a rectangular bucket, not so easy…

I use it indoors a LOT, for big glass, and a rectangular bucket works fine, where I don’t need TONS of water. Major time saver. Outside I would recommend the 5 gal pail with the 30" mop.

I had a 36" mop for a while, too, but its a little over-rated. The 36" squeegee from is also over-rated, since its too fragile, and prone to bending, warping, whatever…but the 30" for both squeegee and mop are perfect.

Try them.

paneless>> I definitely want to give the 30 inch sorbo a try, but i really like the rectangle bucket…lol that’s why i was thinking a 22 inch scrubber, i can still use my same old bucket. If i went to the 30 inch scrubber, i think it would be great for a few jobs i do, but would need to switch to a 5 gal pail. I find my 24 inch sorbo works great for many of the jobs i do have where it gives me exactly 2 pulls (using a pole), so that makes hate having a squeegee run on the dry window too much.
I have used a 36 inch squeegee when i worked with someone else before, but i think the one i used was an Ettore superchannel…it was fast, but i didn’t get too impressed by it.

I hate the end plugs for various reasons-

-They are ugly (to me)
-The little clips are problematic as the spring out (for me)
-Sliding the rubber in and out is greater effort.

Some might say big deal, but I find no benefit in the end caps. I never have a problem hitting the sides, so I don’t need them.

I will never use a brass or stainless channel again (I used them for 4 years before trying a Sorbo)

But hey, it’s Coke or Pepsi, Burger King or Mcdonalds, Ford or Chevy. It is only a preference.

ive never used the end caps on Sorbo so i really don’t have an opinion, but hitting the edges are not a problem for me either, so i see no need to try one.

crazy: if you have the unger rectangle bucket, the big green one…if you have anything other then just your 22 inch scrubber in it, your gona have dipping problems too, cause you need to dip it diagonally [wont fit any other way], and even then it barely will dip level [its a squeeze], if there is other stuff in the bucket like squegees, they will stop the scrubber from dipping fully.

i tried, thats how i know, it got iritating, so i got a normal round bucket. the rectangle bucket LOOKS more professional but i found it was less ‘balanced’ to carry, water tended to slosh from one end to the other, causing the carrying of it to be a problem, and it would sometimes splash water out.

im actually using the frowned upon kitty litter pail…lol its maybe 2.5-3 gallons, its the same height as the normal 5 gal bucket, but its sort of square with rounded corners, its all white plastic, no writing on the sides or anything tacky…i like it cause its LIGHTER to carry a higher water level [which you need for dipping long scrubbers] around all day, cause it is just as tall as the others, but has a smaller diameter.

if you look in walmart, you can find some kitty litter ones, but some have stickers or writing on the plastic, thus making it hard to look professional if you use it, i got this one from a friend, and i was just lucky to get one with nothing on the sides, etc.

how much detailing do you need to do on doors if you use the 24 sorbo crazy? i like to leave every window PERFECT, do you need to detail one or both sides of the doors when your done?

i was using the 30 sorbo today on some doors and it actually wasnt all that bad, although on one side of the door [on my second and finishing stroke down, doing it the way you instructed] there was a small line of water, due to the angle i guess…

I have a steccone featherweight 18" channel. I really like the balance of the squeegee when you put it in an ettore quick change brass handle. I also ground down the rounded ends square, and put a slight dog ear on it. with a little practice, it seems to make those practically nonexistant edges easier to not jump over.:cool:


I find a 22" squeegee is about as long as you need to cover glass quickly but still be able to turn the blade quickly and accurately. Even an 18" for that matter.

Would be better to do those top bits with the Wagtail Flipper.

Maybe I’ll do a second video to compare times.