The New Lower Cost ( Much Lower ) GlassRenu System

People have been waiting a long time for this. It’s basically the original GlassRenu kit, - the fancy case and grinder. Check it out Here: Glass Renu Professional Kit

Didn’t this used to cost $2k or more? What’s missing? :slight_smile:

As [MENTION=1]Chris[/MENTION] said

minus the fancy case and grinder…

Check the product details

Kit Includes:

  • 2 high end custome fit backing pads in 3" and 5"

  • 10 3" and 10 5" Black Renu Discks

  • 10 3" and 10 5" Grey Renu Disks

  • 5" polishing felt pad

  • File to burr up the the felt pad

  • One pouch of polishing compound

  • Dusk Mask

Items Required / Not Included:

  • 7" Variable speed sander/polisher with 5/8-11 threaded spindle and RPM chart

  • Spray bottle with 16 oz of clean water

  • Eye protection

Great Question!

What we have done is stripped down and streamlined our kit to include the bare essentials you will need to get started removing scratches. By removing tools that many of you already have (like the grinder), getting rid of the case, reducing the number of Renudisks as well as the 6" and 8" sizes, several of the polishing felts and other accessories from the kit we were able to get the cost way down while still giving you everything you will need to pair with your own grinder to remove scratches. This is NOT a DIY or consumer grade kit. This system is designed to give you everything you need to remove moderate to light scratches. Now if you are going to need to remove welding slag, or deep graffiti damage we still recommend you purchase and use our Contractor Grade system, but if your business is primarily residential this is the kit for you.

Hope that answers your question!

$249 is a great price!

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Would this be preferable to the Mr. Hardwater system? Does anyone have hands on experience with both that can give some feedback?

-Greg

this is dry grinding, sanding off the glass

Made for things that catch your fingernail or greater

JFlint is microabrasives in a liquid, much finer, like the last step in the glass renu system

All about hard water stain removal, won’t even touch what catches a fingernail

But the Glass Renu system can do the hard water removal as well, correct?

the way I would describe it is the Jflint has stuff inbetween Glass Renu’s first sanding disk and their felt pad

once you’re sanding, you’ve got a LOT of polishing to do after that

the felt and liquid isn’t aggressive since its for final polish

however the Jflint has its steel wool disk with its micropowder/liquid, so it’s not sanding, yet more aggressive than a final polish

if the last glass renu finish step is step 1 and the first sanding disk is step two, the Jflint seems to be a step 1.5

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I thought I remembered something about glass renu felt pads or sanding disks possibly being just the outer ring style that Henry Grover was developing, helping it stay flat on the glass better?

[MENTION=38020]gpyles[/MENTION]

It can.

Most of the guys we sell the Jflint unit to are guys going after shower door restoration and light stain removal.

The new GlassRenu units are moving. Most of the guys we sold them to yesterday were picking it up as an insurance policy and to go after residential upsells. - Glass Renu Professional Kit

I think I paid close to $2500 for one of these systems years ago. Funny how the case and grinder tack on another $2000+

I believe in most cases replacing the glass is the best option. Grinding the surface actually distorts the glass and leaves small swirl marks on the glass.

You sound like one of those WFP naysayers ;). “WFP leaves drips and never cleans as good as getting nose to glass”.

I’ll posit that glass restoration has a very steep learning curve, and it can be very difficult to obtain ‘perfect’ results with no [U]visible[/U] distortion or swirls. I know I gave up on it before I ever got perfect results. Just not my forte. But I do believe there are guys out there getting ‘perfect’ results. And I put the word ‘perfect’ in quotes because grinding out flaws in the surface will change the geometry of the glass. There will be distortion of some form or another. But done correctly, that distortion won’t be noticeable.

Yes I agree, the learning curve is very steep. Keeping the disk flat on the glass is very difficult and the amount of time needed to grind per window is so extreme that your arm is about to fall off at the end of the day. I remember I got a job removing a bunch of scratch graffiti on some 6’ x 10’ windows and it took so long I threw in the towel after that job.

The way this works is by thinning the glass to the point that the scratch isn’t visible, so the glass is compromised. I have had windows replaced before and it is not even very expensive, I would recommend my customers go that route rather than “restoring”.

I agree. It’s a pretty small segment of damaged glass where I would recommend restoring over replacing. IMO, if you can feel the scratch, it’s gonna take too long to grind out to be worth it. And if the damage is near the edge of the pane, there’s not enough room to feather out the repair properly to avoid noticeable distortion. Those two factors probably covers 95% of the damaged glass I see on a daily basis. So it’s not worth it for me to put all that effort into learning perfect technique. But for a few guys, they’ve got a different market they’ve been able to tap into, and I say all the power to 'em!

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Nice Work Glass Renew. Basic set of supplies for people who know what they want to do. Where is the 3" polishing pad? I use it frequently.

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The main niche for it is large commercial panes with scratch graffiti near the middle of the pane. These you can make several hundred per hour and still save your customers hundreds of dollars. Win/win.

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I’m really interested in getting into this service, at $249 it seems very affordable to start off and see how it goes.

What tools and/or supplies would I need to get this set up and functioning to do scratch removal?

And… can this system be used on hardwater stain removal/shower doors?

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There is a steep learning curve when learning proper technique for scratch removal (many many hours of practice are needed.)

For hard water stain removal there are many good and more cost effective setup’s available. (way less training and practice are needed to

offer a high quality result.)

At my home I have a couple sets of sliders ruined and scratched to shit by my dogs. So I figured I can learn there and see what other videos and blah blah blah I can learn from. Learning how to do it doesn’t worry me at all, sounds fun.

Probably should go the hardwater stain/shower door restoration route first?

Although I’m booked solid into December at this point I know that eventually I need to keep filling that schedule. Gotta learn learn learn

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