I hear a lot of you guys on here talking about how when you use a wfp that you sometimes have to do a trad cleaning the first time, then follow up with the wfp the next time.
How long can you go before they are "too dirty" agaain for the wfp? A lot of my res. customers get their windows cleaning 1 time per year..... some 1 time every 2 years..... will the wfp work?
Also, I have always cleaned with dish soap in the past (I know that makes some of your eyes twitch... lol) So all of my new wfp customers will have the dreaded "layer" of soap on them..... is this going to be a nightmare for me with a wfp on once a year homes that have dish soap film???
What about when there is bird poop or whatever and its very high up… isnt it hard to tell if you got it all, and if you scrape that high, what about fab debris? isnt it too far away to hear the sand paper fab debris sound?
Next question… I was originally looking at the r5, but now think maybe the r3 is enough for me… both push out water at 000 tds right? It’s just a matter of how often I have to change the filters correct?
How many hours do you get out of an r3 at like 300tds before you have to change some filters out?
Hogs hair brushes will generally break down any bird droppings. You may find that there are those jobs and windows that need a scrub pad, via the ‘Reach’ Around Goosenecks.
The R3 is still a relatively new system to the market place.
2 years ago we put one into service at an auto detail company. They still have not spent any money replacing filters. The TDS at that location is in the 200’s.
Tony Evans has an R3 and can probably speak to what he is spending on replacement cost.
Josh I got my R3 last fall and have about 60 hrs (give or take a few) on it. I had some jobs where the tds readings were 600+. I also filled my 58 gallon rain barrel several times at home where my tds is 650+. After all that I figure I have about 30+ hrs left before I need to replace my DI sock which is the equivalent to less than 1/8 cubic foot of resin. I’d have gone thru 3-4 resin exchanges at a cost of $300-400 in resin cost. When I replace my DI sock I think the cost will be $80 to go another 90-100hrs depending on the tds readings. Of course at some point I’ll have to replace my prefilter at a cost of about $100.
All this math means I am already paying off my machine in DI savings to the tune of about $300. I also use it far more often than I did my DI tank set up so I’m making more money per hour which also increases the pay back curve.
Thanks so much for the info Tony. You are a great guy and are always willing to help. I REALLY appreciate it… I hope I can help you out someday and return the favour!
First wash; concentrate mainly on the upper frame area and the sides - spending a bit more time than normal. This will wash out the accumulated soap and grime that has been pushed into the frame edges. It is the grime that has been pushed into the edges that will run down and embarrass your cleaning efforts - so get rid of it first.
Second wash; concentrate on the glass area to clean that - trying hard to not contact the frame and thus pulling out any grime that has not been washed away.
Bird poop; do a recce of the windows and then give any areas needing special attention a squirt with your purified water before starting the cleaning process. This will allow poop and other grime to soak and be easiliy washed away.
j/k Tony you also have been tons of help to me as well.
