Once in a while that has been a problem. Try to turn it down, or you will cook your machine.
The hot water will not affect the resin but it will effect the fittings. They are rated for certain temps
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From tests in the UK, hot water seems to raise the tds. Not really a problem if your water going through any unit is good, just something to watch out for.
Thanks guys. Great info!
Anyone care to elaborate on additional experience with this? I had a job with opportunity to use a hot water tap 2 wks ago. Incoming TDS bounced from 90s to low 130’s (we are usually in the upper 200’s to upper 300’s in this area). The outgoing TDS kept climbing - started at 2 or 3 & climbed to 13 or so. I am using a system with 4 filters - sediment, carbon, DI, & RO. I was very puzzled by the erratic behavior, thought my TDS meter might be shot. The water wasn’t terribly hot - I’d guess under 110º. Is it possible that the filters couldn’t optimize because of warm water source or that the warm water could have damaged any of the filters?
Heat your water after it is purified.
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Go down around half-way & read from here “What Does a TDS Meter Actually Detect?”: What is TDS? by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
What Does a TDS Meter Actually Detect?
Since TDS meters are often used to test water “purity,” it is important to understand what they do not detect. As conductivity meters in disguise, TDS meters will only detect mobile charged ions. They will not detect any neutral (uncharged) compounds.Does Temperature Impact TDS Measurements?
One final complication is that the conductivity of ions in water depends upon temperature. There are a number of factors that cause this effect, but one big one is simply that the ions are naturally moving around faster as they get warmer. When the same numbers of ions are moving faster, the apparent conductivity is increased. The relationship between conductivity and temperature is complicated and dependent on the solution being tested.
Pure water responds fairly linearly with temperature, with its conductivity rising by 4.55% for every degree centigrade (2.5% per degree Fahrenheit). Sodium chloride solutions have a smaller change, about 2.12% per degree centigrade. Tap and other natural waters have many different ions in them, and such systems sometimes respond nonlinearly with temperature changes, but not typically to as great of an extent as does pure water.
[QUOTE=karlosdaze;272405]Go down around half-way & read from here “What Does a TDS Meter Actually Detect?”
Thank you. This is very helpful. Likely the temp skewed the reading.
[MENTION=1103]johnedwardlee[/MENTION] or [MENTION=378]Perry Tait[/MENTION] Do you know if incoming hot water is damaging to RO membrane?
[quote="“CleantecLtd,post:28,topic:21260”]
Yes it is - always put the heating source afterwards.
Hmm, that’s interesting. I wonder if this could be useful to the advocates of ‘parts per billion’ pure water. Raising the temperature for the sake of testing might enable a standard TDS meter to detect particles in the water that are less than 000 PPM. I personally have my doubts to the advantages of PPB, but I thought I’d throw this out there.
[quote="“karlosdaze,post:29,topic:21260”]
I agree if it’s actually “Hot” water, but we use a heated hose just to raise the temp a little so the RO will perform a little better. Cold water + cold RO= less performance
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[quote="“advantage202,post:31,topic:21260”]
I’d agree - heated hose isn’t the same as putting your water through a heater to high temperatures which would in turn ruin your RO.
25 degree Celsius (77 f), is optimal for making production water.
As was referenced in a local dentistry site, “Methanol is gradually released in the small intestine when the methyl group of aspartame comes in contact with the digestive enzyme chymotrypsin.”
So my recommendation is to hook up an IV to your small intestine and have it slowly seep into your pure water tank, and POOF!, thawed water 
[MENTION=6125]Lmfd08[/MENTION] Prewash everything with Glass Gleam 4 at double dose (3 oz/gallon) and HOT water. Especially clean the upper and lower sides of the mullions. Use an Unger Ninja sleave and grab poop and goop with the end scrubbers. Watch out for “looking but not seeing” on the crud. Agitate and rinse twice and the a third rinse 1/4 inch below the top sash. Rinse OFF THE GLASS 1/4 inch watch the splash. On a windy day dry the run off from the walls or else it will blow around. I ve had the water freeze on the glass and then dry clean. I like John Lees advice about isopropyl amount and use. Never use antifreeze , it will wreck the house.
Knowing that the RO MEMBRANE will have a much lower volume of water production at this time of year, another way to look at this job is to consider using DI ONLY during the winter.
DI does not use water pressure to filter the water, so its effectiveness is not changed by the viscosity of the water.
DI does cost more to operate (well, depending on what you are paying for your little cartridges) but … averaging it over the 4 times a year - if you are using the DI ONLY for only one time per year, its extra cost can be divided across the 4 services - you will be faster on the job, and in summer, your 1/2 cu ft tank will be the perfect backup system.
As a rule of thumb, the running cost per hour of DI ONLY, using a 1/2 cu ft tank, buying 1 cu ft at a time from WCR, and with a flow rate of 1.2 gpm is as follows :
Running Cost per Hour ($) = ‘TDS IN’ divided by 100
Unless your tds is through the roof, this is the way to do it. Ideally your system will be modular in design so that swapping out/bypassing components is as pain free as possible.
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The housing and fittings on filters are not designed to handle hot water. Also hot water may damage the membrane. As Carlos mentioned put your heater (L5) after the system.
