Wfp on residential

Hi all,
We do mostly all residential and I invested in a wfp last year. I break it out every now and then but I feel like I just get the best results with traditional and I often have to go back and fix windows I did with the wfp especially with painted or oxidized frames. Can anyone recommend some good videos to watch on resi wfp training?? Any other tips would be helpful! Thanks!

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You’re not using it enough on different types of glass to get the proper experience and feel of the magic a WFP can do. Simple as that. On a regular double hung window, do this: assuming your DI system is in proper working order and spitting out pure water, and there are no contaminants in your brush such as sap, glazing compound, putty/caulk, then pick the left or right side of the window and overlap the brush onto the window frame 2-3 inches, keeping the brush mostly on the glass but the 2-3 inches on the frame. Scrub up and down 5 times. Count it out. If the frames are visibly dirtier or its a first time clean, go 10 times. You’ll see the frame get cleaner right before your eyes. If you see the oxidation/milky water look, keep scrubbing. 15-20 times. Eventually it will stop. Switch to the other side and do the same thing. Then do the top. 5 Times. More if visibly dirty. Then do the bottom. You want to scrub the bottom rail/2-3 inches of glass up from the rail REALLY well because when windows get dirty and then it rains, that dirt runs down the glass and settles on that bottom 2-3 inches above the bottom rail. Scrubbing the bottom will remove all that dirt and prevent the debris from rinsing from getting caught up in it and leaving spots. After you have “boxed” the window in (that means making a clean box around the window frame by cleaning all 4 sides, top, bottom, left, right, then work the middle. NO “W” strokes. Up and down, overlapping half the width of the brush so you don’t get spots that are missed because you didn’t overlap enough. Do it left to right 2 times, 3-4 if you feel it’s dirtier. For the rinse, start at the very top left or top right corner and if you have a nylon brush head you shouldn’t have to lift the brush off the glass to rinse, but some here will say you do. If you are using a boar’s hair brush you DO have to because dirt will be caught in the bristles and re-deposit itself not he glass if you don’t lift it off the glass. Either way, control the position of your jets by watching where the tubes go into the brush head, not the water stream itself. go top left corner/right corner and go left to right, moving downward each time, “chasing” the water down lower and lower until you get to the bottom rail then make a couple of extra passes at the very bottom to make sure everything washed off the glass and didn’t get caught in that last inch or two at the very bottom.

I used to get super excited when he first few windows I did were hydrophilic and the water sheeted up and dried perfectly and everything went aces. Then I would run into hydrophobic glass on another job and get discouraged and want to put the pole away, and researched fan jets, turning phobic glass into philic, all this jazz cause all I had ever read about phobic glass was nightmarish. Now I have learned to keep my tank in proper working order and to just rinse a bit more on phobic glass. Its not the water leaving spots on phobic glass, its the glass not being rinsed thoroughly so dirty water on the glass you did not rinse off is drying on the glass, and leaving spots and leaving you discouraged.

Just keep at it. Practice at home or your neighbor’s. Even if you burn through a DI tank, keep practicing.


…Nice description…However if you are using a rinse bar, you do not need to lift the brush off the glass when using boars hair.

Wow thanks for all the good info! It’s just frustrating ha sometimes it works awesome and sometimes it doesn’t lol I know I need more practice