Whoever did the CCU didn’t get all the silicone off.
The quickest most efficient way to remove the stuff is w/ a razor. I’m not going to use slower methods because they have a possible defect. I don’t know if it’s there or not until I use the razor but I shouldn’t have to make less money or charge them more because of a potential problem.
Window cleaners and glass manufacturers have been using razors for decades because they work quickly and efficiently. No reason to change now.
Why let the homeowner even deal with those clowns ever again. I just get my waiver/work order signed and make an extra fifty bucks. Just test the bottom part of the window and then scrape away. Come on folks, part of being a pro window cleaner is dealer with idiot painters. Have a waiver on your estimate and go to town. If it is bad glass use a white pad and use some elbow grease. Educate your customer and you have a customer for life.
bill harkins
mr b all pro window cleaning
That’s if you know it’s bad glass. Most of the time you won’t know.
I agree w/ your waiver and education stance Bill!
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Tony,[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I’m not frustrated. This isn’t my problem. The problem and the frustration belong to the customer and the tradespeople who crapped up their windows. I guess I have chosen to calmly step to the side and let the bullets fly. [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I have them sign a waiver so I can’t be blamed for any preexisting scratches. I only use my 6 inch razor on annealed glass surfaces. I use a small Ettore safety razor with the customer’s permission on tempered glass but it is used differently than a large 6 inch razor. No long sweeping strokes just a few short ½ inch strokes. I use it to take off one spot of paint here and another one over there. If the tempered windows are too trashed for a light wooling and an occasional razor stroke to take care of I calmly decline the job. No problem for me and no frustration either.[/FONT][/COLOR]
There is no definitive test for fabricating debris. You may “test” an area, but the fabricating debris may be located elsewhere – on a roller path, for example.
I respect you Mike so I’m not trying to start something here but if you have a waiver signed why treat tempered differently than annealed?
Are you still doing commercial work? If so heat strengthened glass can have FD and it may have no stamp to indicate that it was heat strengthened. It could cause you problems when a customer wants some vinyl lettering or painted signage removed. I wouldn’t want to try to remove either of those w/ steel wool or a small razor.
Thats what the waiver is for Larry. I’ve seen isolated fabricating debris but in the vast majority of cases(over 95%) ive seen it covers the whole piece of glass and makes that nasty itchy sound.
bill harkins
mr b all pro window cleaning
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]You’re wrong Larry,[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]There is a definitive test. You scrape every square inch of every piece of glass in the house with plenty of pressure on the blade. If the glass isn’t scratched there is no fabricating debris present. :eek:[/FONT][/COLOR]
does it matter if youre only using tap water? 
I’ll get my coat.
I don’t know, I’ll ask Mr. Tap water the next time I see him. 
Nice avatar!
thanks mike.
mr tap water wont know what fabricating debris is… or even be able to participate in this debate… he is like a self proclaimed mathematician who doesnt know know how to subtract
if i ever felt like i scratched some windows by scraping them due to fabricating debris i would just blame whoever painted the house haha (im half kidding)
i was in a brand new house today with almost 100 6/6 windows and EVERY pane was scratched to hell bc the painters used a rusty 5 in 1 tool to scrape every pane… terrible… i wanted to shake them and ask wtf?!? unfortunately my portuguese is a little rusty, i only know one phrase and wtf isnt it… ill have to find out how to say that…
anyways, i am definitely going to start using the fabricating debris waiver and tweak it to include window film as well… an accidental razor blade against some film could cost you a customer and an easy $200+
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I treat annealed glass differently than tempered glass mostly because it doesn’t scratch when you use a razor on it. [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]To remove store lettering I would have to use a razor, large or small it won’t make a difference because the window will scratch and scratch badly if it has fabricating debris on it. I’d rather loose the customer than go to court and loose my business.[/FONT][/COLOR]
PS
If they use holiday paint on their windows I probably won’t call them clowns.
how about “overly festive clowns”?
ps
dont take offense buddy yo, i know you love clowns
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]This thread is supposed to be about steel wool. So here’s a short video.[/FONT][/COLOR]
What you described is not a test, Mike.
I guess we add Portuguese to the list, huh Nick.
Larry,
It’s was all said in jest, tongue in cheek.
We all know there is no test. 
PS
You can clean and scrape 20 windows with no problem and then you get to the dreaded 21st window…scratch scratch scratch.
Ack.
My response was for the benefit of those who don’t know (and there are many.)
Quality tempered windows don’t scratch when scraped. The issue isn’t using a scraper it’s that a defect is being exposed.
