I just wanted to know if you can add a RO to an a DI tank? Everyone has mentioned that I should add a RO because the TDS levels are high here in San Diego.
If yo can, what do you have to do to make it hook up together and about how much will it cost?
you can but if your gonna do RO, i would first put a prefilter before everything. Carbon/Sediment filter to get rid of the chlorine. Thats what really takes out your resin the quickest. I think RO membranes run around 300 - 400 bucks a piece if im correct. WCR has all the stuff you need even the plumbing if im correct.
So how much is a Carbon/Sediment filter? I’m guessing then that you have the Carbon/Sediment filter first, then the RO and last the DI? It looks like I will be buying my set up piece by piece.
Adding an RO is easy and cheap.
There are 3 factors to take into consideration:
1: How much water do you use per day on average?
2: What is your tap water (supply) pressure?
3: Do you pay for your water on a meter?
The RO goes before the DI and will reduce the TDS by 95 -98% normally.
Most guys in Europe have a static setup in their garden at home with the RO filling a large tank. The water is pumped into their tank in the truck (through the DI) each evening. The advantage of this system is that the RO can be running 24/7 so a much smaller & cheaper RO will do the job.
Over there it seems a lot of guys don’t have a tank in the van but use the customers supply. for this to work you’d require a large RO to keep up with your usage. A 40" system would be essential.
Whatever system you get, a granulated carbon and a carbon block pre-filter set should be used. These filters are cheap and are only changed every 3 months or so, but they dramatically improve the lifespan of your RO membrane.
RO filters produce waste water with a higher TDS as well as product water with a lower TDS. Most RO membranes work best at 60 to 80 psi pressure. If your pressure is below 50 you’ll start to notice that the RO doesn’t produce water as fast, has a higher waste to product ratio, and the roduct water TDS won’t be as low as it could.
If the pressure is too low, a booster pump can be fitted which solves all these problems.
Some RO systems produce more waste than others. A Merlin produces 4 or 5 parts waste to every 1 part product water,… a 40" system or a tripple membrane smaller system can be as good as 1:1, so if water wastage is an issue, or water is charged per litre to your house then a lower waste RO is essential.
Hope this answer’s your questions!
Give Chris and Alex a call and they can set you up w/ the parts and directions on putting it together.
you dont need a R/O machine in Southern california.
what you should have done is buy a 1 cubic foot tank from a water company(around$450.00 or rent for $17,00 per month) and have them exchange the resin for you, around $40.00 per exchange.
If you have a tds around 400-600 the tank should last you 500 gallons.
If you are a one man operation that should last you about 4 or 5 weeks.
I think 95% of window cleaners out in So. Cal use rented D.I. tanks. I have only seen one guy with an RO/DI machine.
Can you hook me up with the information as to where I could rent a tank for $17 a month? Also you mentioned in another post that you can get DI for $20 1 cubic or half cubic I cant remember, anyhow can you tell me where to buy that at as well. I cant find those prices online.
I had to get two half cubic tanks as right now I am working out of my car and I need to get a van or truck. But I certainly want to get a full cubic in the future and that information would be very helpful.
The only place I have found so far wants $75 a month and also a regin fee etc… etc… which is why I decided to buy my own for the time being.
Doug and I get our tanks from the same company BUT they are out this way. I dont know how that is gonna work out for you. That would be a lot of driving just to regen your tanks.
not all the great deals are online… you have to check your yellow,pages, talk to auto detailers … but call up south coast water. look em up in the yellow pages
Yo Gangster, did you get that job in the LBC?
Doug is correct, you should be able to find some pretty cheap DI exchange in your area.
If not and you are interested in going the RO / Filter route we have everything you need.
Most all of it can be found from this page:
http://shop.windowcleaner.com/category.sc?categoryId=180
If you would like assistance please don’t hesitate to drop me a line and I can walk you through it.
Get ahead in the game, cut costs and have a much more professional setup than your competitors,… go RO, you won’t regret it. Even if you get cheap resin, the hasstle of re-gen/swapping/re-filling so often isn’t worth it!
I’ll have to post some photo’s of my rig to give you some idea’s,… its a lot simpler & easier than it might sound.
Here’s a pic inside the back of my van (I know it needs a tidy up!)
I’ve an external port fitted by the tow hitch, so I can connect a hose and leave the tank filling with all the doors locked.
On the right hand wall is the speed controller for the pump and the solenoid valve isolation switch (Leave the valve open when not filling and your battery will be drained very quickly).
In the centre is the gas “on demand” L5 heater with a modified flow switch to allow heat even at very low flow rates. There is a valve below the heater that allows me to recycle hot water back to the tank, which is very handy on frosty evenings. I can heat the whole tank to 20 degrees C, and that’s enough to keep the van and gear frost free overnight. Its also useful for removing airlocks from the system,
The tank is a 650 litre baffled layflat tank, and its held in a welded steel cage that is secured to the vehicle chassis. The dangers of an unsecured tank in a crash should never be under estimated, so a decent cage is essential. Webbing straps alone are rarely enough, especially as most anchor points are relatively weak.
I have the DI vessels in the van too, but the RO unit is at home in a static setup.
That is sick!
Still needs a lot of work to get it looking how I want it, but its servicable!
A bit of aluminum chequer plate over the tank and a bit of paint on the timber shelving are next on the list.
I’d show a pic in the side door where the DI vessels are, but that bit is even messier!
I do carpet cleaning, floor cleaning & office cleaning too so I have the WFP out the back doors and the rest of the gear in the side door.
[QUOTE=Njones;44786]Here’s a pic inside the back of my van (I know it needs a tidy up!)
QUOTE]
Whats the “Coors light” for??? Before, during or after work??? Tell me your not “one of those” LOL
[quote="“LanceInAz,post:17,topic:4557”]
Haha I noticed that too! 
[quote="“LanceInAz,post:17,topic:4557”]
I saw that too, and I wondered what the hell a guy in Ireland is drinking coors light for!
[quote="“hunterst,post:19,topic:4557”]
Its considered an import there!
