If you are looking for a great brush, consider these. They are available here at WCR in the US or via Mark Strange in Toronto.
CCS does not have them in stock yet.
@cactus27
Cracking sounds would freak me out on cheap glass. On dirty cheap windows I hear cracking sounds from push to hard on glass (traditional).
Iām sending you a private message with the link to my Gardiner supplier here in Canadaā¦
Well, we had one crack on us today. 55f outside, water temp was probably 110f if I had to guess.
Did a huge house, all the exact same window, and this was the only one that cracked. My guess is it already had a weak spot- maybe even a tiny crack.
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Oh no!
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Customer was cool about it. I set her up with my go-to glass repair company.
On a side note, she was raving about how amazing the Windows looked. Iām telling you, that hot water is a game changer. These are wood clad with flat paint- stubborn to clean and rinse with wfp. They turned out beautiful though.
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Curious to know what that is going to cost to get fixed. I did one this year cost 250.00. Bottom sash of a DH.
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^ itās a tdl, so i think they can just reglaze that pane alone, and then refinish the muntin. iāll let you know what it costs. my guess is $300-$400.
[MENTION=6538]Josh Weddle[/MENTION]
Your profile picture cracks me up every time I see it. You look like you just dropped your squeegee from 20 stories up.
Always have to bring a backup squeegee 
Or, did I tie that knot right?
I think indoor temp plays a roll tooā¦ Something to look intoā¦ What was the inside temperature like when it happened?
I got advice from Caleb last winter when I was looking to add hot water to my WFP system. I went with the L5 as he suggested and of course he was spot on. It is probably the best piece of equipment I have purchased so far for the price. I did a midsize hospital on one tank of propane so it goes along way. I did mount it to a hand cart from home depot for about $60 like you are thinking about doing.I just used 1x4 lumber and bolted them to the cart then I mounted the L5 to the 1x4ās. I work out of the back of a pickup and my WFP system is locked into the front of the truck box. I purchased 2 hot water hoses as I saw it on a WCR post awhile back that they will last a lot longer than regular garden hose. Each hose cost about $35 and are 25ft long.They are to long but the were the shortest I could find. You may be able to find shorter hoses and it will help keep things from getting tangled up. I leave hoses hooked up to WFP system and my hose reel so all I have to do is set the L5 next to my truck and attach the propane tank. I can be cleaning windows within 5 minutes after arriving at the job. I just put my WFP away for the winter but if you want I can send you a picture of the L5 mounted on the cart to give you an idea. If the weather holds I would be willing to load up WFP system if you are looking for ideas on how to lay out your system. Side note also read on WCR awhile back that water heater should only heat the pure water coming out because you can ruin your filters. I took the advice. So you will want to make sure you have a heater that doesnāt need a lot of flow to work. I purchase a bigger unit that needed 3 gallons a minute ( cost about 5 times more than the L5) because I thought bigger was better it wouldnāt even turn on because I couldnāt produce that much pure water. Good luck and keep asking questions you will get lots of great ideas from the WCR. One draw back would be that if it is windy out the heater will go out I used a tarp attached to my step ladders to block the wind and that worked out. I am looking at building a wooden or metal box that I can slip over the heater so it looks more professional just didnāt have time this summer. Good luck
Hi Frankie,
Very cool that itās working out for you. I love wfping with hot water.
I had the same problem with the flame blowing out. Thereās little vents distributed around the unit. I brought a roll of tape with me one day and saw how many holes I had to tape up until it worked properly.
Now it works great even in high winds. The exterior of the unit does not get hot enough to melt the tape. I also bent the cover on the top over so I could use it in the rain and snow.
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i have had alot of trouble keeping the flame going due to lack of pressure. i adjusted the jets and it worked great at my own house but on the job it still went out. inside i found the wires that run the switch that turns on the gas and igniter and hot wired it but it still went out!! wondering if it was blowing out but it wasnāt that windy.
mine is away now for winter but i may take it out to test on a nice day.
i think we should have a special forum section for hot wfp!
thanks to all who posted, keep em coming:D
If you have to much water flow pumping through the unit it will turn the flame off. A ball valve before the unit will help ā¦ it can help limit the amount of water going In
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@Pure Water Window Cleaning
I will try the tape on the holes in the spring for sure thanks for the info. Bending the top over makes sense I will have to give I a try. It is true the flame will go out if you have too much pressure a ball valve will work.
total cost on this ended up being $353.98. Glass company just ordered a new window and painted it to match. The customer passed $300 of the cost on to me, so it turned this from a very nice job to a not very profitable one pretty quick. I think we had about 12 man hours into it and it dropped from $975 to $675. WOMP WOMP.
eccotemp L10 flame out
tried today as temp was just around freezing.
connected heater directly to supply hose, no problem even though fairly windy.
connected supply hose to washit (removed flow restrictor on DI exit port) heater stays on about 1 minute then goes out.
i have jump wired the switch that apparently fires the spark and thought that would allow the unit to run below required pressure but i see there is some other mechanism that controls the gas that must be shutting it off
I bought the heater last year, constantly fought with the flame outs. I know that it was probably my fought and I could have tinkered to get it right. But after cracked glass and the extra set up time, I gave up. I use a tank and pump, I got rid of it and went with a bucket heater. It wonāt get it super hot ( which I donāt want ) and it cools down as you could imagine. A 35 gallon cooler and the bucket heater overnight really made things a lot easier.
Where did you get one of those? It must be huge!
Iāve gone the same route, with the bucket heater. I drilled out a hole in the top of my tank lid so I could feed the power cord through, and the heater just stays in the tank full time. I should really insulate the tank better to save a little electricity. But the way I have it set up now, if I fill the tank and run the heater over night, the tank will be somewhere around 120-150 degrees F by the time I leave in the morning. The radiant heat from the tank keeps the rest of the vehicle defrosted. And the inside of the car will actually be warm throughout the day (great for lunch time :)), if I donāt use the WFP first thing in the morning.
So I know Iāve probably written this elsewhere, maybe even somewhere in this thread. But hereās a detailed run-down of my setup and process for hot wfp:
25 gallon sprayer tank with shurflo demand pump
1000W immersion heater from amazon - the type that doesnāt have a temp shutoff, just keeps heatingā¦
- immersion heater is permanently set in the tank - use a booty or shower cap to keep the steam from filling up the vehicle
300ā of polyurethane air hose, 1/4" ID. - I loop the hose back into the top of the tank, and run the pump for about 5 minutes before I use the wfp. This gets all of the water in the hose nice and hot. Sometimes I will pull over before I get to the job, and get the pump running so that I donāt have to wait for it when I arrive.
I will usually try and do any wfp work first thing, especially if itās a first time clean and I want that piping hot water for full effect. I will only pull out as much hose as I need, and will sometimes reel the hose back in as I work closer to the vehicle. This keeps the heat lost from the hose at a minimum. I will also keep the water flowing for longer spurts, so the water doesnāt cool down in the hose. for instance, I will pre-soak an entire wall of windows, the same way you might pre-soak your dishes before washing them.
Overall, the difference hot water makes is phenomenal. The built up grime will simply melt off of skylights and other windows that have been neglected. Iāve also found old vinyl frames will clean up in a way that nothing else can. I got the immersion heater mostly to extend my cleaning season, but the more I use it, the more I want to implement it in my warm weather cleaning, as well. Any job that hasnāt been cleaned in the last 6 months is going to get hot water, from now on. Itās completely worth the extra couple bucks on the electric bill.
A propane powered demand system like the L5 would be really nice for a lot of reasons, like only heating the water I actually use. But for now, the immersion heater is working pretty well, and Iāve developed some systems to make the most of it. And it takes up no additional room in the vehicle 
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