I’ve got one for you pm inbound…
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If the paint is clean and containment free a damp foam applicator.
If i wash mine it might fall apart. Just for spite.
No its not the wax, it fine scratches from your mop and wand.
-Use wool wash mitts to wash and dry with a “water sprite chamios.”
- use a clay bar to clean contaminates off the paint. Use a spray bottle to keep the clay bar and paint damp.
- then wax the vehicle
Ask away if you have anymore questions skipper!
I got pretty fascinated with auto detailing stuff for awhile.
If the scratches are really fine, you could probably use Maguires or some other rubbing compound with a random orbital buffer to take them out.
Deeper scratches require a rotary buffer, and you can really mess up a paint job if you don’t know what you’re doing with one of those. It’s an art form, sort of like glass restoration/scratch removal. (Although I think in some respects it’s usually easier to undo your own mess-ups on glass than it is on automotive paint)
Its a synthetic chamois (it workks best for drying a vehicle.)
Clay bar comes in three grade soft,medium and heavy duty they are used to remove paint, tar, environmental contaminates ect… Get the medium grade clay bar.
To remove the super fine scratches get a polish.
After you polish the paint then apply the wax.
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not too bad with clay bar, then menguiars ultimate compound/polish/wax
Terrible oxidation on the single stage metallic paint which I learned after purchase needs to be immediately & continually protected. I got most of it out but its gotten to the aluminum flakes i believe from what Ive read…still pretty cool to mess around with.
I like the reflection before & after…
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Looks good man!
Yup! I made a great living because of that.
Thanks! It felt good after…well my arms were sore but i think it just needs a harder compound. Oh and I forgot an important step I found from a car restoration pro online. I used Menguiars #7 mirror glaze before the compound to “moisturize” the paint before abrading off the oxidation. He said that was important for dry oxidized & fragile single stage paints…Yeah that was important and it worked great.
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…WAX! sorry couldn’t help it.
Right pure water is the way to go. But if you dont have pure water the "water sprite " the way to go.
This brings up a good point… Perhaps network with a trusted detail center to refer work to… He could do the same.
What about if you get a smokers car or family car with kids grubby hands?
