[SIZE=3]These have nothing to do with orbital squeegees.
Thought might find this more interesting.
[/SIZE][SIZE=4]Cleaning Tips- How to clean like a professional- Part 1
[/SIZE]
//youtu.be/NSLu2uPxN84
[SIZE=5]Check these other videos out.
MANY DIFFERENT WAYS TO SQUEEGEE WINDOWS - YouTube[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Heres another one[/SIZE].
[SIZE=4]Cleaning Tips- How to clean like a professional- Part 2[/SIZE]
It is really helpful. I believe that people can learn some moves from watching how a professional window cleaner to clean the window.
Nice videos, thanks for sharing!
These are some really good window cleaning videos and I am sure to tell that many will find this helpful.
[MENTION=5063]HE MAN[/MENTION]
Love your videos. Found a few no longer exist? A wagtail man now, might be due to your videos. Use 18" combi and 14" Slim. Even loosened and smoothed ninja to be able to swivel the head using thumb and knuckle side of forefinger gripping up near the swivel point to manipulate the head of handle.Maybe it is because of the videos but I will always get a tip line even from the higher edge. I never see lines on these vids. Not sure if there is liquid caught in the channel. Glass isn’t very wet. I see folks putting the squeegees anyplace and no lines from the edge. Maybe the rubber. Recently put a soft blade vice the wagtail and a little better but even with a good overlap the top edge still sometimes leaves a line coming from the tip mostly when pulling. Any thoughts?
That’s probably why your getting the trail line. The dirt has to be suspended in your liquid to remove properly or your using to much soap.
You figure the high end would have the water drip down to the low edge or like when waggin I cut edge down pretty fast and when come up to go to opposite side I think the top lead end is maybe cutting into the arc of liquid. It shouldn’t because from hitting stop point there is a slight flick out of bottom edge before … ahhhh. That is it!. the bottom flick causes the top edge to go back to the frame edge to begin the turn up but it still has liquid along its edge. What I need to do is give it a a quick straight up then flick thereby moving the liquid down the rubber a bit instead of being held up the end. Duhhh. Shallow S dip L/R I wont see it. It is different with a softer rubber. It is quicker, more slick using other than wagtail rubber. So have to adjust. Cut down pause flick needs to be cut down up flick. Hard to explain but basically going down edging blade almost vertical to frame then go up on the bounce up then flick bottom to turn. Missing the slight up slide motion. Don’t worry it is clear in my head.
[COLOR=“#0000CD”]Thank god[/COLOR] I’m totally Lost flick bottom flick straight up flick L/R…LOL.
Jack just get the dirty water off the window and move on…LOL
I bet you could talk for hours about tools or anything else!!! :rolleyes:
[MENTION=6741]wcs[/MENTION]
More like days…
Simple bottom corner ( most water is down there) will become top corner. If at same height with all that water it will go left and right. . Not enough edge it will squeeze out the end you don’t want. With older rubber didn’t get a good slide up. The new soft rubber is so quick I didn’t notice the up motion. I changed out because the little pain flecks were sticking to blade causing problems. Weren’t coming off the rubber so swapped channels. Cleaned off the wag rubber and that is when I noticed the motion difference. Wondered what I was doing differently. Just figured it out.
that’s funny it has driven me nuts on many windows and I just had a great big ah ha moment reading this thread. if you “flick” back close to the wet edges you are going to get a line every time. ahhh haa. I saw a guy on you tube trim his rubber at an angle and left little or no edge water too. I tried it and ruined 2 new rubbers and still got lines. oh well trial and error I guess.
Josh Rouse
Carolina Clean
Derby, NY
