Bronze Wool questions - proper wool use - scraping

Hey guys,

I would like to use bronze wool when I get rolling but have a few questions.

Seems like the bronze wool only comes in three packs so how many jobs can you get out of 3 pads?

This spring/summer was my first season doing windows for a company. I have seen jobs where previous years whoever was doing the windows didn’t wipe the sill so there was rust from the steel wool.
Since I am trying to do this for myself, I don’t want have the potential for that happening.

To me, I would feel safer using the bronze despite the increase in cost.
Does anyone feel the same way? Should I just make sure I wipe frame,sill, mullions (which I do) and use the less expensive steel?

[B]Proper wool use[/B]:
Here is the method my boss taught me.

Wet window with mop (swiffer as he called it) then wool window while wet. (same method for scraping)
Horizontal or Vertical pulls - wipe rubber - repeat
microfiber edges to absorb water (I will be using hucks or scrim)
finish with chamois

Is that an ok way to wool/scrap the window? What have some of you found to be better or worse?

Thanks
Anthony

For everyday scrubbing/cleaning I used a white 3M scrub pad. Much cheaper than both bronze and steel wool.

I would never use steel wool, what if I don’t look and get lazy and drag a rust spot against the glass? Then I’m responsible for that scratch.

I bought 3 or 4 packs of bronze wool (3 per pack) and still have 2 packs left after over 2 years now.

If the glass is in such bad shape with oxidation I use oven cleaner and a white pad.

I’ve also had the same box of white pads for 2 years now.

Granted, almost everything exterior i get done with my wfp now. But every now and then I have to get nose to glass.

Sent from my iPhone using Window Cleaning Resource

I run steel wool on most residential work. I’ve never seen rust on the sills, or tracks from steel wool, though when I purchased cheap steel wool, found it to rust very quickly during the job when run wet. It would literally make my bucket water brown after a half day squeezing the rust-juice from the pad. Never had problems with it scratching glass.

I wet, scrub, wet, wipe frames, squeegee, then wipe the sill and detail edges.

I’ve yet to try bronze wool, and have been thinking about switching, given it lasts longer than a day.

Thank you pro and walkthru. What brand of steel wool have you been using?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Window Cleaning Resource mobile app

So far, I’ve found Red Devil Purple Label (0000) to be most consistent and reliable. The Ho-Max stuff they sell at Home Depot has been the worst from my experience.

Skipper, Thankfully I was taught not to do that. We have run into poor tint jobs where we didn’t do some of the windows at all.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Window Cleaning Resource mobile app

…Steel wool is good, bronze is better because it doesn’t rust. These 6 x 9 pads are awesome Bronze Wool 6 x 9 Pad | Abrasives and Scrubbers | Shop WCR Use them by hand or on a pole with a pad holder. I use wool wet or dry. Dry is great for little touch ups/drips. I think a chamois finish is overkill.

so all the other guys answered this question already, my question is what is the chamois for? Your not using it to buff the window after you squeegee it are you, Hope not.

Local or online purchase?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Window Cleaning Resource mobile app

No we used it to suck up the excess water on the edges the micros didn’t pull up. Boss told us not to wipe the whole window with it only to detail edges.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Window Cleaning Resource mobile app

…Good thing you’re switching to hucks or scrims then cause you can leave out the microfiber and chamois.

I hated the fact that we would have to stop and wash out our chamois. Even more so on the bigger jobs. Since I am already trained on that method I’ll stick to it for now while I train myself on the scrim.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Window Cleaning Resource mobile app

Local hardware/everything store.