Its not necessarily a vs video but I describe my experience today with the fliq and demo the new flipper pad. A little long, but whatever. I’m not a Hollywood producer and don’t want to be.
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I like your video, it detailed, good work.
I haven’t tried these, how is wetting it? Seems they take fore time?
Thanks for the feed back. Wetting it is actually easy because I use a squeeze bottle on residential. I haven’t used it on commercial yet but I would imagine with this design how it wraps around the squeegee so we’ll it would be just like wetting a strip washer.
I can’t wait to take it out next week!
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Good video Travis.
I have tried the exclerator and the fliq also…not my thing (GREAT CONCEPT though.)
Ive read and tried a few mods that might help you with the tool.
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rubber sliding in the channel when soapy, zip tie or paper clip in the channel/rubber holds the corners down and the rubber in place.
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water lines, the angle of your rubber to the glass and pressure.
Hope those help.
But I like your mod tool, I have a 14 and a 10 like that also but with the unger s channel.
Keep posting those videos… oh yeah whats your “trick” you use to clear the water on the bottom edge of the glass. 
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Enjoyed your video Travis. Your technique is so stinking smooth!
Would love if you did one on straight pulls too. I consider you the authority. And i agree with @wcs that i wanna see that technique for the bottoms.
(Btw, you have a very likeable video personality if that makes sense.)
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Travis, enjoyed this video. Could help with a few ideas on what’s happening with the Excelerator/Fliq but in all honesty at the end of your video where you demonstrated the frames you work on? Have to agree with you man, the advantages that many of us experience with this tool simply aren’t going to be relevant on that type of frame.
However, for the record…
- rubber needs to be flush with tip of clip and remain that way at all times. You’ve discovered the rubber moves. It needs clipped and I now use the green unger plastic clips. Moerman really need to bite the bullet and realise this themselves. They’ve made the clip tighter BUT that in itself presents an added problem as you’ve discovered. Knock the rubber and it moves inside the clip BUT because the clip is tight doesn’t reset… in short it gets jammed.
- The handle on the 18" is the most likely one to move if the channel is knocked or heavy pressure is used especially with the added weight of the Fliq. Annoying, but a small bit of duct tape centred on the channel sorts this, giving the handle something to ‘bite’ on. I personally would like to see some sort of positive stop that the handle jaws lock on to.
- Rubber change is easiest with the handle off. Slide rubber in, pin the ends and place handle on. This way you get a nice even tension on the rubber and irritating lines are eliminated.
- I find top flip more useful than bottom flip especially for bottom close out. I personally use the pad on pole only, regardless of the size of channel and in hand use it bare with a light scrubber in the other hand…
However…i doubt that any of this is going to help you on the particular frames you’re demonstrating in this video. Nice job man.
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Hey Travis: Just keep doing what you’re doing. Looking forward to many more videos!!!
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Thanks for all the positive feed back guys! I will try to share more tips and tricks as I have time. It’s hard to find the time though. I have to pay the bills, raise 5 kids and home school them part time, heavily involved in church, and coach soccer right now 
. I’m getting a headache just thinking about it.
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Very nice and concise post on troubleshooting the liquidator/excelerator. I think anyone who decides to use it should read this.
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Thanks. Yah I think we are on the acme page on the changes they need to make. It’s really an incomplete design without end clips and something to keep the handle centered. The design is so precise that any movement out of place on any component and it causes problems. Because of that everything need to be secure. If they made those changes they would have a much less finicky tool and more enjoyable to use.
As for the flipper on top or bottom, I would prefer it on top as well but it limits your movements on the glass. If the squeegee gets sideways too much, or if you turn too quickly then it tends to want to flip back over on the glass. For this reason I keep it on the bottom which worked fine for me.
I would also tend to use it on a pole if I was doing commercial where my bucket is always accessible. With residential I’m climbing in and out of bushes and use a bottle and leave the bucket in one place. I don’t like to carry roo many tools on my work belt so I would prefer to use the flip pad on tops and bottoms and need only one tool for the job.
All in all I gave the tool another chance. I like the swivel action of the tool so I may make some modification and try to get it to work properly. In the mean time I will be using the do it yourself flipper on the Ettore brass.
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nice video travis.
for those that don’t get the how of zero detailing with a square end, look at the angle of the blade, when he is doing his top corners and side edges the blade is almost perfectly horizontal which allows the very corner of the rubber to get into the very corner of the glass.
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Great post Ken like I’ve said many of times, if you learn proper technique with a normal traditional tools you can have a result of minimal detailing to no detailing at all.
But I’m curious what @whatapane “trick” is for clearing the bottom edge of the window, to see if easier then my way. 
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Yeah me too! That may fall in to the category of “trade secrets” though. Information that lurking competitors might use to up their game and make life difficult 
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Now that’s funny! I hope that’s not the only thing that’s separated one company from another!! 
Marketing and customer interaction is a totally different animal though, one “trick” can make all the difference! 
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Great video,I didn’t like the Fliq pad either,I took the poppers out of the pad and put them on my Wagtail pad.
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Hey @wcs and @whatapane, you guys still haven’t shared your trick for clearing the water from the bottom edge. I’ve been waiting all this time, don’t think i forgot!
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I didn’t see you ask that question …
I always close at the bottom of the frame. When i’m straight pulling windows i always get the channel to “snap” (As your closing out on the bottom lift the pole a bit higher and get it to “snap” finish) for upper widows for restaurant or route work.
I’m sure you already do this Daniel.
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Maybe if you get them to PM it you can tag me in the conversation, eh?
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I answered @WVWindowWashing question, basically.
Theres no magical way to not leave solution on the glass, it all about practice, time on the glass learning the proper technique.
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maybe we could find a similar topic in the search bar?
