Currently cleaned a customers window but am having difficulties with the basement hard water stains. I’ve used bar keepers friend, wcr and some other chemical from a local janitorial store. They also recommended another chemical that they use for toilet bowl cleaners but I’m not feeling it. What do you guys use for bad hard water stains? I also discovered I’m going to charge 25 dollars per pane next time so i don’t have to do this crap.
uh, thats STILL to cheap.
Without you, they would buy a new window. Hundreds of dollars just for one window. 25? up to you I guess.
There is a point where the glass is too far gone for a chemical means of removing the corrosion. You’d have to get in touch with Cole for that part as I don’t have a clue.
As far as chemicals go, the toilet cleaner is correct kinda. The active chemical in it is the same as some window cleaning acids just a different ratio I believe. I use it sometimes with a small dilution.
But for residential jobs, you’re taking a whole lot of risk using acids because you are voiding the warranty of the windows if its still in its period of such.
It will eventually break the seal and you’ll definitely get the blame.
Just sayin’.
Have you tried 0000 steel wool or bronze wool (wet of course)?
Bar Keepers Friend didn’t even lighten it up? Are you sure you used it right? You read the instructions on the back right?
I’m assuming you have already used OneRestore and Winsols product?
If those don’t get it off, it aint coming off with chem.
2 Likes
Thanks for the info Thor. I’m new to all this so just learning what i can from reading old topics. Bar Keepers Friend did work to a degree. Being a rookie I’m hoping to learn from the experienced men and women here before I damage anything.
Good idea. We’re all new to something, don’t feel bad. We are all learning.
2 Likes
From what I’ve tried, the proper way of doing it, is using a buffer/polisher with some sort of compound and water.
That being said, I’d steer clear. Leave the restoration for someone who does exclusively restorations.
1 Like
nobody does that exclusively and I’m not trying to be a smart ass but that isn’t the “proper” way, but one of the last resorts.
You have a higher chance of “burning” the glass using a buffer, not talking about glass renew at all, I’m talking about compound and a buffer.
Thats the same concept as using bar keepers friend, but if you are using a buffer you can’t really know when its time to quit. Its going to heat up. Its going to be a freaken nightmare to clean up.
Restoration is an awesome add on service and makes great money. Trial and error, and read manufacturers warranty info, call manufacturers and ask them. You can change up your method by what is said.
It is crazy simple after you do a little homework and really take precautions. Just follow directions and listen to those who’ve done it and you’ll be fine.
Again, Scotty I aint trying to be a wise guy at all. Just disagree is all.
I know of quite a few glass restoration companies in my area. Multiple stages of polishing, sealing, etc.
How else would you get etching/deposits off without a buffer? I mean I know onerestore and the likes have their application, but wouldn’t the windows that have 10+ years of hard water need some muscle, like a buffer?
Had my first heavily stained glass yesterday. Tried bkf with towel, then with white pad and what finally worked was 0000 steel wool with the bkf. Took tons of scrubbing and yes I will be charging like you suggested going forward. No scratches and looks awesome.
1 Like
Assuming a recurring hard water source, what did you seal it with?
What I have used with the greatest success for both removing hard water stains and sealing afterwards is Mr. Hard Water products. The sealer may seem expensive but I did two coats on a small shower and only used half the smallest bottle they sell.
