Guys, I can really use some help with this shower door I did today. I have done a couple before and they came out good with a drill and a pad I got off Amazon along with Bio-Clean. This method worked well but thought I would give Mr HardWater a try. So I purchased his shower glass kit along with a polisher from Harbor Freight. Came with 5 steel wool pads and the cleaning powder. Did a door today that kicked my a**, took 4 hours. (You can see the before and after pictures below). I got 99% of the hard water stains off but when you look at the door from an angle, it looks hazy.
What did I do wrong? How can I fix it? Any help is appreciated
It looks better but I do see the haze. With the Glass renu kit you use a 5" felt pad and cerium oxide in a slurry to final polish. That haze just needs polished out I’d say. (Jewellers rouge works toobut I know nothing about the different grades)
Amazon.com This stuff is more orange coloured than what came in the glass renu kit. Means it’s not as pure. Pure =white. Should still work though.
I know that I am new to cleaning up hard water deposits. Perhaps the drill and steel wool bit sort of burned the glass? If that is possible?
I picked up some A-Maz and with two applications had remarkable results of having clear glass as a result. I need to use it on more situations to be convinced it is the way to go, but it applies easily without high RPM’s of an abrasive.
I completely agree with Trench. The higher grade cerium oxide will be 99.9 percent cerium, and it will be pure white. Cerium has been used for years to polish glass because it works physically and chemically at the same time. It produces the best finish. In fact a product with only 80 percent or less cerium will not polish as efficiently or fast as a 99.9 percent product. I would go with a wool felt pad, a good mix of cerium (maybe even let it sit for a week), and speed. I have heard of some guys working with it up to 3,000 RPMs. NEVER turn your pad on edge and rip into the glass that way (always remain totally flat at all times). You also want to make sure the glass does not get too hot to keep your finger on it. One of those laser pointers that tell the temperature with the touch of a button are great to have. So again I think Trench is right on target here. It should polish out with the right technique and product.
One more thing regarding the cerium. I don’t really like taking the word of a sales company. I would rather get my cerium from a company that has a tech sheet for their product. It will give you the percent of cerium, the average micron number, the elemental distribution, and more. Then you will know exactly what you are working with.
Regarding the product A-MAZ. I looked up the SDS and was able to identify only one chemical. That being naptha. Which is a flammable liquid hydrocarbon. This chemical will not remove mineral deposits on glass. So there must be another substance/chemical/abrasive in there that IS removing the water spots. It is not listed on the SDS. Or even hinted at. I should buy the product so I can test it out side by side with other products.
Most any kind of chemical should be used with safety precautions in place. Gloves, respiratory mask if needed, eye protection. Especially so if it is more than a one off time like using it for a living over a period of time.
I have not had the experience of cleaning shower glass but I have with hard water buildup on regular commercial glass and the choice for me is Chrystal Clear 550. as long as there is non-coated glass, CC550 works in minutes (not hours) and excellent results. I have to import the stuff from the USA but the cost and time in shipping far outweigh the benefits. You MUST try a spot test though to ensure that the chemical does not affect the coating if any. It even works on some coated glass but regular glass is a cinch. IMO.
Good morning Chris - Hey let me know whats up with the edit of just silently popping in and editing my post. If it is some policy thing you have just say what it is, no big deal.
