Holy Crap!

So this spring I introduced gutter whitening, great add-on service.
The house I did yesterday had the dirtiest gutter I have EVER seen.
My mix ratio is 3-1 and it works good, sometimes on really dirty gutters I’ll do 2-1.
One problem with gutter zap for me is that when I apply it I have to scrub it for the streaks to come off. I’ve tried applying it with a brush and spray bottle and then letting it sit. Not much difference.

So yesterday the 2-1 mix didn’t even phase those gutters, nothing.
Tried a section in the sun, another in the shade…then I tried a straight gutter zap mix and it worked on some parts and other parts it went thru the gutter paint:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Any experiences with this chemical?
I’ve done a good amount of gutters, but nothing like this has ever happened.

My fix for the eaten paint was some flat white spray paint, looks great now:D

let me add to your questions for other answer. Used gutter zap yesterday at a 2:1 ratio. While applying it naturally some dripped off the gutter, when it dripped on concrete or agg. it was a rusty color and dried quickly. Scared the hell out of me, but it did clean up.

Does it always drip a rust color? Anyone have any issues with it staining siding/concrete?

I always irrigate the area below with lots of water, especially if plants are present. I will use a tarp if necessary.

I don’t allow GZ to dry, and only allow it to dwell on small (up to ~20FT) sections at a time. I try not to use it in the sun.

Gutter zap will blast right through paint. IMO you might as well buy Purple Power from W*lmart or truck degreser. Same stuff.

I buy everything I can from WCR but I haven’t found anything that will touch Gutter Grenade from Pressure Tek. It only removes oxidation- no paint and I only use a few ounces per gallon of water.


What was the temperature out yesterday when you did the job. I ask because gutter zap will not work if it is under 68 degrees in our experience.

I never put it on straight (anymore) It will eat the paint right off as you found out. If you need to use a brush, dip the brush in the chem and make sure that the gutters are pre-wet before scrubbing, then only leave it on a minute or so before rinsing.

F-13 or gutter grenade from Pressuretek, or just degreaser as other member stated.

And like Larry said, soak the concrete below if you’re applying anything that can drip on it, it can stain the concrete and by the time you notice it’s already dry and you have to start scrubbing or PW the whole area.

If one then re-dips the brush, ones original solution becomes diluted and dirty (chemical and/or labor costs rise.)

I tend to either apply direct with a sprayer, use an additional rinse bucket, or ensure that I clean the brush prior to re-dipping.

Thanks for the words. I don’t think the question was aimed at me, but it was just below 60 degrees yesterday where I was working.

easily 80+

Wow, that sounds like a real drag.
:stuck_out_tongue:
I put 3 or 4 ounces of Gutter Grenade in a bucket with a gallon of water, dip, and wipe down a section of dry gutter. Wipe it again and rinse.

Dirty solution still cleans great. I don’t have to dilute it with constant brush cleaning.

If it gets so dirty I can’t stand it then I dump it in the bushes and part with another 3 or 4 ounces of product. It’s concentrated enough that I have knocked out gutters just by wetting the brush and scrubbing a little when I forgot to bring my F-13.

I’m gonna get me some of that!

It would be nice if WCR could get this stuff in the store. Here’s the site for info though:

The black streaks in gutters are in the oxidation layer of the paint. F-13 removes the oxidation and in turn removing the streaks. - CHEMICALS HOUSE WASH / GUTTER / WOOD CARE / MULTI-PURPOSE

You should ask Chris, sometimes they have things that are hard to find on the site store.