How to speed up Pressure Washing

Here I hope to show some of the things that I have learned about learning to be more effective with pressure washing. Now’s a good time to start upgrading everything so you can be ready for Spring.

First is Downstreaming. Downstreaming is injecting chemcial through the hose downstream from your pump. If you use the injector that probably came with your pressure washer, and is installed inline with the inlet for water, that’s Upstreaming, and can possibly (will) harm the pump. With downstreaming, only water flows through the pump.

A chemical injector for downstreaming can be bought for under 25 dollars. You want to make sure that the direction of flow is in the correct direction for your machine. The direction of flow will be indicated by a small arrow stamped into the brass. I usually put quick connects, a male and a female, on the injector so it can be replaced quickly if needed.

It’s really a good idea to have an extra injector on hand. They have a spring and a small ball bearing inside of them, to determine whether you are using high or low pressure. The injector will only suck chemical if you’re using low pressure. Sometimes these springs will break. You can buy replacement springs, but it’s easier to just replace the whole injector and worry about the spring later. At only 20 bucks each, it’s well worth it.

The good thing about the injector is your chemical can stay right with the pressure washer. There’s no need to carry the chemical around like with an x-jet. You’re only limited in the amount of high pressure hose you use. Unless you have a high GPM pressure washer, or a specialized injector, you want to keep your hose to under 150 feet.

I mentioned that the injector will only draw when you’re using low pressure. How do you get low pressure? You can use the black soap nozzle, or you pimp out a nozzle. You can put one together by using a 1/4 male quick connect, a 0040 hose barb that’s threaded on one end, and teflon tape. These will get your chemical a good 30 feet, higher if you have a higher GPM pressure washer. The stream will have very little mist. I get these from my local pressure washing supply store, they’re around 7 dollars. You would think that this stream would cause damage, but you can actually spray your hand with it.

Since you can get good distance with these nozzles, I ditch the “wand” or “lance” part of the gun. It’s only added weight.

So this is what I use to apply my chemical. I can cover a lot of ground this way. I can cover a house from top to bottom with a nice foamy chemical very quicky with this one tip. Allow for proper dwell time, and them come back for a good rinse.

Do you use low pressure to rinse as well?

That’s correct. I don’t spray a house with anymore pressure then I would spray on my hand. With the right house wash mix, you don’t need the high pressure, and you greatly lower your chances of damage.

I use an M5 x-jet, with the adjustable spray, to rinse with. I cut the hose off.


Could you elaborate on the right house wash?:slight_smile:

Nah that will never work. Just kidding. You will probably want to get a couple nozzles for various hights. To rinse, I use the same nozzle I applied chem with. You can just pull the ds (downstream) tube out of the chem bucket or put a ball valve on your ds tube and turn it off. For chemicals I use Pressure Tec (link includes recipies) call Bob and he will set you up with the correct nozzles and give you all the info you need. Now your ready for a summer of $99.00 house washes. NOT

There’s a guy here who runs the Landa dealership that fabricates some sweet wands for downstreaming. It has an on/off valve on it so you can soap and rinse without having to change a thing. It rocks.

I downstream everything also. I can’t believe I used to carry 5 gallon buckets around for that stupid X-jet.

You can get a dual wand from just about any well stocked pressure washer store. You just turn the handle to go from low pressure chemical to a higher pressure rinse.

House wash mixes will vary across the nation. Here in the South, we have a fair amount of mold and algea growth, so a stronger bleach solution is needed. Out in California, mold may not be so much of an issue.

No matter where you live though, I believe a solution involving bleach, and a surfactant, will greatly improve your cleaning and reduce your cleaning time. You’ll have to play with the recommended proportions to find out what cleans your typical house best. Always start with the least proportion and work upwards. (Remember to always pour the chemical in the water, never the water in the chemical)

There are several surfactants you can add to help with your cleaning. Simple Cherry from is good, it’s used by many of the serious full time residential pressure washers. It buffers the bleach making it clean better. There’s other surfactants that are good too. What you want in a surfactant is cling to help with dwell time, something to keep it from drying quickly, and something to buffer the bleach.

I’ve found that will the nozzle pictured that I can cover the entire house. I just step back away from the house if need be, or spray to the side to make sure I’m not splashed with chemical. Various nozzles could be used, but I just don’t like switching nozzles out.

I’ll second that about Bob at PressureTek. He is a great guy and will help with absolutely anything pressure washer related. I’ve personally met him and seen some of the awesome stuff he’s invented.

Great Post Micah! Although, I still use wands. I use everything you talked about, but I use an 0015 tip to rinse with. With a 4-6 foot wand I can rinse between 30-35 feet easily. Hardly ever use ladders to Pressure Wash at all.


Here’s something else that can greatly speed up and make pressure washing easier… A ball valve. A ball valve is generally placed between the high pressure hose and the trigger gun.

The benefit of the ball valve is if you need to switch guns - or go from a gun to a surface cleaner - you can just turn the ball valve off, leave the pressure washer going. Once you’ve switched out guns, turn the ball valve back on, and you’re ready to go!

If cleaning a large area of concrete, you can use the ball valve to cover a large area with soap while downstreaming. Leave the ball valve kinda half on, half off. Some guys even wash single level homes with just the ball valve.

Make sure the ball valve is heavy duty. The one pictured above is rated to 3050 PSI and 300 degrees. Many well stocked pressure washing stores carry them.

I can’t get the kind of range I get with a dual lance wand though. This thing changes the flow rate just enough to pull soap but I can soap and rinse at the same height.

Thats why I keep an assortment of nozzles

Please don’t use ladders to PW

Good info guys. My bro made a special fitting for doing houses from the ground. I watched him do a 3 Story house today. I wonder if its the same setup.

I am not understanding the setup with the hose barb, I guess I am not sure what you mean by a hose barb:(

Here’s a picture of the hose barb.

Plumb it to a quick connect with some teflon tape and you’ll have a nice low pressure chemical applicator when you use a down streamer.

( I know that’s an air quick connect, not one used in pressure washing, but it’s the only one I could find quickly )

got it Thnak You!

Great thread! Thank you for the info.

Great thread! I only have one question that keeps nagging me. Since the bleach is corrosive how much damage would it do to the hose? How long would the pressure washing hose last? If it lasts around year…I think it’d be worth it.
I have been using the X-jet and would love to do what you are doing, but that one issue is holding me back.