Have any of you guys tried it on a Ettore Contour Pro + handle?
I really like that handle. But as a hand tool.
On the pole I only use it in 0’angle mode.
But would you guys recommend to skip the 18’ as a hand tool?
It’s strange how different it can be. I use Sorbo wide body channels when I don’t use the liquidator, and then the 18’ is more like a standard to me. No problems of handling it.
Thats the set up I had with my liquidator v1 but that got lost 
I also had bad experience with the 18" and cut it down to 16", I love my sorbos for anything over 18" I use my 22" and 30" very frequently, after I lost my 16" I settled on the 14" excellerator, found it good except for the problems stated, main one is the handle rubber movement.
I did the windows of a church the other day, just normal size sliding doors covering both walls 30 meters so 60 meters of glass, smashed them out with the sorbo on about 30 mins, I was told the company that did the job the time before took from 9am until 6pm for 2 people, thats over 16 hours I did a house wash on 4 of their buildings concrete paths all around windows on 3 buildings and high dusting and cleaning of 10 12’ high ceiling fans in less than 16 hours and the other company just did the windows of 1 building.
Having the right tools and knowing how to use them gives you well over $100 /hr 
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For me the ducktape on a part of the channel solved that problem.
You did a great job there 
As you said, with right tools and right techniques you come a long way.
And it must also be a guy with great work moral who works with the tools. 
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Excellent…bear in mind though I meant 25° for use in hand.
Yeah that is what I have also found to be the best angle and i fixed the handle rubber sliding problem by using ettore rubber, you have to lube it up to get it in once its in its nice and tight no movement and perfect results and I should add its uncut like my previous liquidator and it works better imo, I had some frosted glass the other day the moremon rubber was folding on with the uncut and the tighter fit nothing works better than out of the box just by using a quality rubber.
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Thanx for the tips guys , bended the tips of my 45cm and 30cm liquidator endclips and the work great,
45cm channel is still a little bit jumpy sometimes have the feeling its bending especially when closing out, no problems thouhg with the 30cm channel on a excellarator handle.
Thanx a million guys
Almost gave up hope on the liquidator channels:)
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Ducktape worked great for me 2 have been working a whole day with it like that. Didn’t have to correct the rubber once (30cm channel)
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I too use Ettore rubber in the Liquidator channel with excellent results – yes lubricant is needed to slide into the channel… I have had good results with just soapy water. Have to use more soap for the first half hour of work, after that the rubber is broken in a bit and works well… I am definitely curious though about the Black Diamond rubber that quite a few guys are suggesting to use in the Liquidator…
I have Ettore rubber (soft) on order for my Liquidator. I’m doing this because of all the remarks about it being better.
Thanks for the tips on inserting lubed with soapy water.
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Thats is my go to in all my channels.
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Black Diamond works great! But it wears out faster then Razr Red Rubber.
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I use both. Yes BD wears quicker but it is much more efficient on glass that is in hard water areas. I find the Razer tends to glide across that type of contaminated glass and leave water. No such issues with BD however.
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Today I did some experiments to fix issues that I’ve been having with the Excelerator and Liquidator (2.0) channels, and I had some success.
- Typically I cut the rubber flush with the ends, however after the first or 2nd window I notice the rubber is bunched up towards the inside so it’s no longer flush with the ends but actually too short on both ends! The theory of the liquidator will only work if the rubber’s edge is flat across the entire surface of the glass; when the rubber contracts (it does compared to just putting it in) it folds a little bit near the ends, thus leaving water/lines about an inch from the tip of the channel.
- To fix this I’ve inserted zip tie ends to really crimp the rubber in place and prevent it from contracting or shifting; during testing this seemed to make the channel blade the solution off evenly instead of leaving lines/streaks where it doesn’t. Moerman needs to move to end clips similar to those used on Ettore brass channels, and abandon the ‘pinch’ method of securing the rubber, this would fix rubber ‘crumpling’, contracting, and shifting issues, and keep the rubber’s blade against the glass along the entire length of the channel.
- Close-outs aren’t clean/detail-free on storefront muntins/frames with the Excelerator as-is. This isn’t because of the bulk of the handle, rather the angle at which the handle holds the channel. When you close out, the clamp part of the handle will be flat on the sash/muntin/frame, but the dog-eared ends are still a sharp angle to the glass (pointing down) instead of an obtuse angle to the glass (i.e. level with the sash or pointing up slightly). The reason I don’t have close-out issues on my wagtail is not because it’s flatter (it’s not), but because the angle of the rubber (in relation to the glass) doesn’t get sharper than 90-deg during the close out.
- Well changing the angle which the clamp holds the channel on the Excelerator clamp didn’t work out (I tried, failed), the next best thing was to bend the tips backwards to bring them more in line for a clean close out (bottom or side). This improved the close-outs a lot during testing, I’ll have to test it out on a storefront to call it ‘solved’.
So if you’re having issue with lines/streaks/missed spots, not blading the solution off as a standard channel would, the rubber is folding/contracting in the channel and it needs to be literally clipped in place at the very ends. Zip tie ends, paperclips, anything to put in there and prevent the rubber from budging at all.
Messy close-outs, has more to do with the angle at which the handle holds the channel more than anything else, I’d even say the “bulk” of the clamp on the Excelerator handle is absolutely fine.
Edit I also use Black Diamond Soft for the cold season (even used it for warm weather believe it or not). It’s economical price is the main reason, but I also like the feel of it.
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Excellent observations. Have tried and agree 100%. …except for flattening the clips. I love the BD but the one slight issue is that it’s shorter than most other rubbers and because of that there is absolutely no ‘give’ on close out because the tip is right on the bottom edge of the clip. The jaws require a design tweak so that the channel angles up slightly.
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try using ettore rubber most of your issues will go away IMO.
never tried black diamond as it only became available a few days ago here, however I hear its a silicone blend and wears out like silicone rubbers do they are like using a Ferrari for 1/2 a day they the other half is like driving an old beetle
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This problem I’ve have yesterday and today:
Tried different angles, different pressure… Only thing I haven’t tried is to bend the end clips back.
This is my squeegee:
As you can see I use Red Rubber and cut them like the original and I use Unger green clips…
So I think I’ve been trying the things you suggested… But even so… it’s frustrating 
The rubber is in good condition and it’s happening on both sides…
Why cut the rubber, it works better uncut?
have you tried ettore rubber, no I’m not an ettore sales man, but I find it damn good in the excellorator.
I have never tried the red rubber, well I tried some red rubber many yeas ago that was silicone and wore out after 50 or so panes but was super cheap but 50 panes wont cut the mustard for me.
One side of a sorbo or ettore rubber will last me several thousand panes…
seriously several thousand?
Yeah I change my rubber when it needs to be changed, not for a smooth ride, some rubbers dull very fast sorbo and ettore do not, the rubber in my 30" lasts about 4-5 months as its use is sporadic while the rubber in my liquidator I will flip maybe after 2 3 weeks of daily use, cleaning at least 200 panes a day in resi, on my storefront days its about 150 panes then a on to resi. Very few of the window I clean have rough or timer frames, 99% are powder coated aluminum frames which is not a plastic finish its a thermal-polymer application, which many people mistake with being plastic.
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thanks for answering, i use ettore. i don’t get nearly that i’ll have to see if i can figure out why. the last batch i bought the first two were no good right out of the package.
