For all you guys who are rocking the liquidator 2.0: How much work time do you normally get before your rubber corners are trashed? Do you use the genuine Moerman rubber, or something else? How do you cut and mount your rubber? What kind of Windows and frames do you encounter most in your workday?
I’ve been burning through genuine Moerman rubber like crazy. I cut it flush with the end clips, but maybe I’m just riding the frames too aggressively? After about 2-3 hours residential work I need to flip my rubber, and sometimes even that doesn’t help cause the tips are so far gone. It’s frustrating cause the whole point is to have a zero detail squeegee, but when the rubber gets nicked like that I have to deal with rainbow lines or attack the windows with a new rubber every couple hours.
I’ve heard Bob claim to get weeks of use from a single rubber. How is that even possible?
When I’ve seen he’s videos he’s not wetting the window edges… in the U.K. the residential windows is often cleaned every month… so they don’t have to wet down the edges and then don’t have to touch the edges with the squeegee.
I don’t like moerman rubber. Just bought the 2.0 and used the rubber it comes with this morning. Streaks galore. Swapped it out with black diamond, waddaya know, no streaks. Commercial, residential, storefront, I always seem to have trouble with moerman rubbers.
Got my first LIQ channels a couple of days ago, and practiced on my home windows (wooden putty frames) and Moerman rubber was fraying at the ends before I finished the outsides. But no surprise with rough frames.
Used on rubber seals and aluminum framed windows yesterday (out+in) no problems yet. Will be using again today, and see how much longer they last.
I’m using with Ettore Contour Pro+ handle, and still getting used to the springy-ness of the handle with the light-ness of the LIQ channel. More “perfect” practice as Polzn says I guess.
Did another two story house this morning. The thing is (as I notice with both Polzn Blades and Trad Man) is I’m switching between different sizes all the time, so no one squeegee rubber is being worn out consistently all the time. So it’s hard to give an accurate judgement. Up till I got the LIQ, I was using an 18’ all the time, and rarely any other size, but I’m finding I having to use smaller and more varied sizes with LIQ’s.
But I must say, I love them. They are growing on me each day as I improve with them.
One tip, is that I started month’s in advance adjusting my technique (before even touching a LIQ) to get as close to the edges of the frames all the time, as if I was using a LIQ, even though I wasn’t (if that makes sense). So I’ve found the transition quite easy. They are just great.
The Moerman rubber that is shipped with the channel is their soft rubber. Here in NZ we also have a wide range of frame and seal styles and without a doubt the Soft Rubber chews out really quickly. Their Hard rubber I find is excellent.
Thanks for your advice Eric. I’ve found your advice all round on the LIQ and EXL excellent, and have paid prticular notice to it.
Where about’s do you get your Moerman LIQ hard rubber from? And I’d really like to get hold of one of those Ettore Super Buckets as a transport solution. There’s an imitation one here in Christchurch at Hygiene Direct, but it has no lid, and they can’t source one for me. Where could I get the whole kit and caboodle (Ettore Super Bucket) in NZ? Any suggestions?
I got an over-kill of FaceLift Razor-Red rubber, should last me a whole year, perhaps more, and plenty of Moerman LIQ soft, and Unger Soft for my S-Channel Plus’s. So no big hurry for rubbers for me.
The Excelerator is a whole different beast. This is my first true foray into pivot tools. Learning curve is tough. But after some practice yesterday I was improving. Gotta go. Thanks.
I used the liquidator 2.0 channels with a Ettore Contour Pro+ handle with Ettore rubber. The ends burned out so fast, it would start to leave a trail off the tips. I would not use them on old wooded frame window because I knew it would burn out the ends faster, so I only used them on newer vinyl frame windows. They still burned out so fast, I would have to waste time checking the middle of every window and buffing them out. Then I would waste more time cutting rubbers, also wasting more money on rubbers. Not worth it at all. Now I’m back to stock Ettore channels. I also am doing a lot more straight pulls and not fanning every window.
Hi Graeme,
I’ve only had a couple of lengths of Moerman Hard when I was testing the prototype Excelerator. Black Diamond Hard is identical albeit fractionally shorter from bulb to edge. I actually get that in from Oz.
My bucket is actually the one Hygiene Direct supplies. I too was a touch frustrated that there was no lid but I’ve found no issue with transporting with water in as long as you have scrubbers and squeegees with it to break up any chance of splash. My last Ettore bucket and lid lasted me nearly 10 years. Still use it for storage but minus a handle? not much use.
Same here. I did a few jobs with the liquidator and tossed it on the equipment bin and went back to Ettore brass for residential. Then I got the fliq and same thing. I like the concept but don’t feel it’s practical for me. I tend to be hard on my tools. Besides I can generally get detail free with my Ettore brass and without all the finicky issues of the fliq and liquidator. Not sure I will ever get away from the Ettore brass.
Hey sorry to here that, but I’m not having the same problems (at least to the same degree). When I first picked up the LIQ and started fanning, I noticed I was leaving those little triangles and correcting or detailing on nearly every pane, on the first day. But I experimented with fanning in different ways and directions until I found three of four different techniques that reduced and/or completely eliminated that. I’m loving them. They were perfect for the two story house I did today with aluminum frames and rubber seals, just great. And I’m looking forward to using them again on Monday. I love the Contour Pro+ for closing out at the bottom in tight spaces.
