Looking for a little wisdom

I’ve got a couple questions

  1. Recently did a residential with cedar siding. I couldn’t for the life of me get all the water off when cleaning. Certain spots seemed to leave a thin film. I figured it may have been overspray from when the cedar was sealed last. Anyone else ever have that problem? (Homeowner didn’t want me to scrape or use solvents so we agreed that I had done the best I could)

  2. Who is using natural sponges? Its how I was taught. They clean the rubber and wipe the edges. Every once in awhile when I see another window cleaner I’ll stop and watch them, but rarely do I see them using a sponge.

  3. Distilled vinegar and distilled water. Do they serve any purpose in window cleaning? I just figured since they were distilled they wouldn’t streak, anyone try those at all?

  4. Ok so i have more than a couple questions. I like using my scraper, but I’m a little shy with it because I don’t want to buy any windows, I never use it on windows facing the water, but is there anywhere I should be looking to know for sure if its tempered? Most homeowners aren’t sure.

Thank you in advance for any advice you’ve got

  1. I charge an outrageous price for those windows. you have to scrape them. You can’t use heavy solvents because it may damage the seal that they spray on the windows. I tell every customer if they would only have the windows covered up they wouldn’t have to pay as much. But really I would rather tackle on storm windows before scraping for hours on those windows. And I really really hate storm windows

  2. My dad use to use them. I didn’t care for them. Ironically his name was Bob.

  3. I use it with chandeliers

  4. Fabricating Debris - Window Cleaning Resource - Home

1- the only way to get sealer off is w/ chemicals. I use Oil-Flo and a white pad or bronze wool.

2- I have a sea sponge and use it when cleaning sills on storm windows. (Easier to soak up the excess water)

3- I don’t use vinegar. I use have used distilled water and isopropyl alcohol on lights fixtures. Works great!

4- Tempered windows have a tempering stamp in the corner. Be careful though because sometimes you may be dealing w/ heat strengthened glass and it has no stamp. The best course is to get a waiver signed every time. It’s the only way to be safe.

Distillation is the process of heating a liquid until it boils, capturing and cooling the resultant hot vapors, and collecting the condensed vapors in order to purify (remove contaminants, for example) the liquid. Distilled water (and deionized water) is a great tool to provide a spot-free rinse.

Properly using a scraper poses no issues with either annealed or heat-treated glass (where no excessive fabricating debris exists.)

Not all tempered glass is marked. Typical residential locations required by building code include doors and sidelights; windows in kitchens, bathrooms and eating areas; and those windows 18" or less from the floor.

Educate yourself and your customers regarding the fabricating debris issue and heat-treated glass manufacturing. Utilize a release waiver for all window cleaning services as a means to protect yourself.

IWCA - International Window Cleaning Association - Tempered Glass - Home

Stop Scratched Glass - Home

Scratched Glass and the issues related to the cleaning of Tempered Glass

Thanks guys, one last thing: My dad is old school, he taught me windows. He was telling me the other day that I should get some non-amoniated amonia. Uh…wouldn’t non-amoniated amonia be nothing? Is he crazy? Am I retarted? I called around and nobody has it. He suggested I use that on my windows with the cedar sealant on them. Thoughts? Ideas?

I think that your dad just asked you to fetch the rafter stretcher or the muffler bearings, or maybe buy a football bat. Could he be messing with your mind? Thats genious!

On the other hand,

I would have steel wool and oil-flo/simple green cleaned the film off, I have never used a sponge for wc’ing, heard lots of old school guys talk about vinegar and distilled water–but always figured that there were newer better ways than what the crusty old dudes used to use, and lastly, use a waiver, wet the windows, and scrape the hell out of them–if it doesn’t come off with a scraper and steel/bronze wool, it ain’t coming off.

I’m gonna look like a real big d*#k-head if someone actually knows what that stuff is. Oh well, isn’t the first time, won’t be the last I am sure.

I have a real quick generic disclaimer that is on the quote sheet that the customer signs. I’d like to add something about scratched glass, what is the best way in 3 sentences or less to word that (I’m almost out of room on the sheet).

Its possible that my dad is f-ing with me, it wouldn’t be the first time.

Muffler bearings are best installed using a little traction grease and a left handed screw driver. If you dont own a left handed screwdriver, a metric adjustible wrench works well too.:smiley:

A proper scratch waiver is vital. I would make it a separate form. Can’t really do justice to it w/ 3 sentences.

There are non-sudsing ammonia cleaners, I believe.

Sprayway glass cleaner is a non-ammoniated aerosol.

There’s an auto store out here that got so many people sent in asking for a muffler bearing, they actually welded a set of bearings to a 3’ long exhaust pipe and charged like $25 for it, gave them a receipt and everything. I was in there one getting some parts, when a guy brought it back for his money back. Every one was laughing about it.

From time to time I like to use non-ammoniated ammonia along with my dehydrated water to clean windows.

And I second Tony on using a separate sheet for a waiver. You really need two sheets, a customer copy and your copy. Or make a copy - just make sure you keep the original.