Mini or Compact Micro Reel

YSK - there are an astonishing number of hiccups that can prevent you from getting to work - I would guess Dan has had DI tanks falling over and snapping the tap adapters at the head - a reason for why they are not freestanding. The thick antikink hosing might have been acquired to reduce resistance when tap pressure is low.

When I get back from work I’ll make a list of what I am calling MVS - Minimal Viable Setup but YSK you might feel like running for the hills when you see it. I welcome any thoughts on improvement to MVS.

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I will describe MVS common in Europe. Starting from the water flow at the customer’s tap to your water fed pole.

At my vehicle there is a box that contains adapters for customer taps. The most common is the 3/4 inch tap adapter. You want spares for common adapters and do not use brass for the adapters changed the most because they get stuck.

The other tap adapters are a large diameter smooth bore, 1/2 inch, 1 inch - all female threaded, two types of indoor facet adapter - large square mixer tap connector and one male threaded 3/4 inch.

  • Smooth bore
  • Female thread 1/2 inch
  • Female thread 3/4 tap adapter (common)
  • Female thread 1 inch
  • Square mixer tap connector
  • Male thread 3/4 inch

You will need disposable gloves, thread seal tape for leaky taps, spare rubber gaskets, stainless hose clips, spare female garden hose connectors, multitool because customers can have quirky or damaged taps.

  • Gloves
  • Thread seal tape
  • Rubber gaskets
  • Stainless hose clips
  • Female garden hose connectors (common)
  • Multitool

You might add a torch to find your equipment in the winter evenings. I lost my multitool and have been cursing since.

After the customer tap is dealt with you need to be able to connect to the filter(s), reel(s) and wfp brush(es).

Introducing Yellow Adapter. YAs are 1m quality hoses 12.5mm-12.6mm diameter with quality female hose connectors on the ends. You can use cheap garden hose and hose connectors found everywhere but know they will be in the bin in a year.

You need to make 2 YA - I carry six. One goes from the customer’s tap to the inflow fitting on your DI tank. If you station the DI next to the customer’s tap it could be 1m long but if the DI tank is in your vehicle you would need a garden hose reel like the one in the back of Dan’s vehicle, one female hose connector and one YA to hook to the DI tank. You need a male/male connector if you have an Unger DI tank because the outlet is female.

  • Garden hose reel.
  • 2-6 YA = 2-6m hose and 4-12 female hose connectors (common)
  • Male/male hose connector

The pure water outflow of the DI tank accepts a YA and this connects to a 3/4 inch tap adapter on the reel. The reel can carry pole hose, microbore or minibore. That is hose with internal diameters of 5mm, 6mm or 8mm. Before connecting the YA you should unspool the reel to the run you need for your job. This reduces resistance and problems with dragging hose.

One important connector I use is the Claber 9-13mm Coupling. 9mm-13mm means the hose outer diameter and it goes down to 8mm. This coupling lives inside the reel barrel and changes flow from the YA to your choice of hose size.

  • Reel 2
  • Pole hose, microbore or minibore
  • Claber 9-13mm Coupling

At the end of your reel 2 hose you need a way to connect to the pole hose of the water fed pole. I use two 6mm tails and a YA. Some use Rectus Series 21 couplings or the Slick connects but in all types you will need a male/female coupling and this coupling should have barbs that fit the diameter of your reel hose.

  • Reel hose tails
  • Rectus 21 Coupling
  • Slick Connects

This assumed you are one operator - used 1 DI tank and 1 reel. You would need five or six YA and a hose splitter for two wfp users.

  • Hose splitter.

Thanks Fenster
Very informative

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It is not a problem. Websites have lists of fittings and photographs but you are expected to know the context. I am critical because MVS is a simple system but you can be several hundred dollars in before you found the fittings were the wrong type - size or you didn’t buy enough.

Smooth Bore smooth-bore-tap-adapter

Female thread 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch half-inch-three-quarter-inch-tap-adapter

Female thread 1 inch one-inch-tap-adapter

Square mixer tap connector faucet-adapter

Male thread 3/4 inch male-threaded-faucet-adapter

Thread seal tape thread-seal-tape

Rubber gaskets rubber-gaskets

Stainless hose clips stainless-hose-clip

Female garden hose connectors female-hose-connector

Multitool multitool

Yellow Adapter

Male/male hose connector male-male-joiner

Claber 9-13mm Coupling 9mm-13mm-claber-connector

Reel hose tails aluminium-hose-tail-6mm-to-male

WCR has a nice hose tail for pole hose that uses pneumatic quick connect without a barb

Hose splitter garden-hose-splitter

I didn’t mention them but you’d likely need -

Repair barbs nylon-repair-6mm

O-Clip clamp


Rectus 21 Coupling

Slick Connects

Tails, o-clips and couplings all need to be checked for fitting to pole hose, microbore or minibore.

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Wow, this deserves it’s own thread. It will get buried here. Please make a new thread!!!

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Thanks - it has found a new home - Minimal Connection Setup for your system or MVS

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I’ve been thinking more about plastic pallets - there has to be a way to take advantage of their stacking ability to build a protective structure for all your equipment. The current state of the art for my tools is called a heap so I’m slightly obsessed with the idea of everything being in its place.

I’d like a situation like yours where half the capacity has options and the other half is set as wfp area. Contingent on rear view mirror you could get some more plastic pallets and chop out the centers - stack the sides - original pallet on top and the reels and filters are occupying more vertical space and a free space for tools below. I saw a carpenter with that scheme on Youtube and my Fine Homebuilding magazine had an article on installing low drawers in a car for carpenter tools. Fitting Out the Van - YouTube

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Agreed, and the beauty of cut-outs is that you do not have to worry about fasteners. Everything is solid when together, but can be easily removed when needed.

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That’s about the same in the community I service-- 100-130 TDS…tanks last a long time, we are lucky (my HOME tap water is 297, yikes)

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Update on the reel project - soda can for size and 100ft pole hose.

The original reel was 16.6kg and that was supposed to be the lightweight edition.

The mini version is 2.3kg. It is pole hose so 5mm ID but that is 6x lighter. It is obvious visually that I could have fitted twice the length.

I estimate the Aquapony reel can hold -

5mm pole hose - using 8mm OD is reel 250 ft - 300 ft
6mm microbore - using 11mm OD is reel 120 ft - 160 ft
8mm minibore - using 13.5mm OD is reel 80 - 100 ft

I am happy with the weight and will probably step up the hose length and diameter. The Aquapony goes for real world trials and assuming it performs I plan to update to two reels - an Aquapony with microbore then the Kiros with minibore, the Kiros has double the hose capacity.

For those following the project - I made a mistake with the Claber 9mm-13mm adapter which lived inside the reel. It does have a barb for 9mm and you can fit microbore ID 6mm on it by using hot water to expand hose end. What you cannot do is attach 5mm pole hose - I have two different adapters coming to me and one of them will solve that.

Could be a oscillating multi-tool.

On resistance - do you recall spec for hose and connections between the di vessels - I think it is all 3/4 inch hose but I haven’t seen the fittings or bushings on the tank heads - did you need to modify them?

I’ve been looking at plastic pallets near me - I’ll update the topic when I pull the trigger on those and for Mk 2 of the project I’ve been admiring Dave’s powered reel Water Fed Pole Powered Hose Reel Upgrade Only £40 - YouTube

All those reels seem like overkill to me. This is what we use. Easily fits 150’ hose. $9/each, reels/unreels quickly, and takes up little room.

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But that cannot be plumbed, so you have to unroll the entire length of hose every job. With a plumbed reel you only pull out what you need per job, and reeling in is way easier.

Unreeling all your hose on every job, you get tangles etc.

Can’t beat the price or size or even weight but would be surprised to see the spooling and unspooling happening quickly - not saying you can’t - people can be fast at the technique they’re used to.

For unspooling - do you take off a plastic disk and drop the hose to pull or do you place the reel barrel around a cylinder and then pull? For spooling up is the part I’d need a video - my dad had a small electrical cord reel and I remember it being frustrating to use.

@DanTheWindowMan a plumbed reel makes much more sense if you have a skid and are pulling out 25’-50’ at a time to do smaller stuff. We typically use the WFPs on large residential/commercial so we are using all of the hose anyway. 150’ is definitely overkill if you only need a little.

@Fenster-Journeyman I haven’t timed it but I would guess all 150’ can be reeled or unreeled in 30 seconds or so. The spool has a handle on the interior which spins so you just hold it and pull the hose to unreel (I will start at either the window I’m starting at or my tank and just walk to the other while unspooling) and to reel you just hold the handle in one hand while cranking with the other. Pretty simple.

I’ve thought about mounting a reel to my DIY cart but I’ve found these little reels to be extremely efficient, lightweight, and cheap.

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Makes sense, right tool, right technique, right job. I’m sure some people will be putting in some orders to try them out.