Moerman rubber is basically the same price as Black Diamond. Maybe I’ll just switch over if it’s the same formula.
Though I could swear the stock rubber in my new liquidators wore out faster and gave me more grief than the BD rubber I replaced it with…
Polzn for president
I tend to rip up both Moerman and BD Soft but like both in Hard equally.
worn himself down to a point with all thoise moves im sure
the amount of soap he uses is another factor both for lasting and ends not pulling, and as mentioned the frequency of cleaning there and mostly middle range temps. also he has mentioned he uses a lot of squeegee sizes, i use mostly the same 12 inch blade.
if i change it everyday thats 20x2.81 CAD thats a whopping 50 bucks for a whole month, who cares!?
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Absolutely Ken, that was my point further up. Business consumables, calculated into the cost of doing business. You in effect aren’t paying for them. The customers is.
One more reason to just stay with my modified channels and Ettore rubber.
You sure…
Actually I think I am sure. People still having problems with the liquidator even Bob. lol
paper clip pieces 
Well I just ordered some genuine Moerman rubber so I’ll report on its efficacy when it arrives. I’ve still got some BD soft so I can do a head-to-head match up if anybody wants.
I don’t really care that Moerman has apparently designed their new squeegees to work with a proprietary rubber. I mean Sorbo does it and it’s fine for them too. But it would have been nice to find that out from Moerman and not through somebody’s YouTube channel.
For me I am always so looking for ways to cut cost. I have a lot of expenses bot business and personal and I have to stretch every dollar. If I can shave off $20.00 here and there per month it quickly adds up to hundreds in savings per month. Runner alone is jot a major deal but if it’s a place I can cut cost I’ll do it. Obviously to a point.
I once ran across a guy who was doing store front and I couldn’t believe his rubber. It looked like it hadn’t been changed in 5 years, no exaggeration. It was like trying to squeegee with a wet sponge. That’s ridiculous. But if I can go a week or so on one rubber that would be nice. Not to mention I just can’t stand spending time on equipment. I just want to clean and make money. I don’t want to have to change my rubber every 2-4 hours. It drives me nuts sometimes. Especially on a big house with French windows. I will get in a groove and the corners are going bad and I don’t want to stop but I know I’m leaving signature marks on every other pane.
That was one down fall for the liquidator for me. The corners would go out even quicker than normal.
Just got a chance to play with my genuine Moerman rubber side by side with Black Diamond Soft rubber in two identical channels this afternoon. So here are my findings:
First, the package indicated that China was the place of manufacture for this batch of Moerman rubber. Strips were bundled individually, and not in pairs attached down the middle like Black Diamond.
The bulb size on this package of rubber is identical to Black Diamond. The strip is about 1mm wider from bulb to blade edge than Black Diamond.
The thickness of the rubber is identical.
The Moerman rubber is only slightly less rigid than Black Diamond’s soft compound when allowed to hang over a table’s edge. However, it seems to require much less pressure on the glass and does not permit those inch-wide smears as readily as the Black Diamond does.
I did not use any paper clips, Unger clips, Sorbo clips, zip ties or other means to secure the Moerman rubber inside the channel end, yet it performed beautifully as long as I did my part and did not attempt any squeegee acrobatics that we already know will not work with liquidator squeegees.
So, to reiterate: My stance remains unchanged. The liquidator 2.0 is a high performance tool. It is the product of much fine tuning and design nuance, and is intended to maximize performance, provided it is used in EXACTLY the manner it was designed.
Can you use it with other rubber brands? Yes. I did, and it’s not the worst thing ever. SHOULD you use it with Moerman rubber? Probably. If you really want to get the most out of it.
Lastly, an analogy: Squeegee are like motorcycles, and the rubber blades are like the motorcycle tires.
Regular brass and SS channels are like the old standbys; cruisers made for logging thousands and thousands of miles; designed to be simple and relatively maintenance-free, they are not fussy about fuel type or road conditions. Slap just about any tires on and let her rip, you know it’ll get you where you’re going, albeit not necessarily the quickest.
Now the new liquidators are like race bikes. Performance-tuned every step of the way. Designed to be ridden with precision and controlled very carefully. Performance potential is HUGE, but the rider must be well-trained to get the most out of it. CAN the race bikes be ridden with any old tires? Yeah they certainly can. But it’s a waste. The limit of the tire grip will limit the whole bike. Why buy a race bike if you’re going to ride like a granny?
So for the performance, there is a cost. Those sticky race tires let the bike lean almost flat on its side in a fast turn, but they wear out twice as fast and cost twice as much. That motor can really scream, but it demands premium fuel and a sharp skill set to boot.
If you don’t want to buy the right tires and replace them often, or spend hours and hours adjusting your technique and developing specialized skills, then just sit your butt on the cruiser and enjoy the ride with no worries.
Squeegee rubber like tires?
If this is true there needs to be a balance.
As a normal squeegee rubber used without end clips, dogeared and any other forms to have pressure on the ends of squeegee channels.
You have even wear with less pressure on squeegee rubber when using.
However when having clips, dogeared etc that are pushed forward so to get into the edges.
This is unbalanced having put much more pressure on the squeegee rubber then you have to, so the middle part the squeegee rubber makes contact with the surface.
I guess the biggest thing with the liquidator is the ends blowing out, Lately I don’t even get to flip the rubber s the corner has totally blown out only thing that can be done is cut them off but now you need a new rubber for that size.
So at the end of the day you have the choice to use it and spend more on rubbers or not to and spend time detailing, so for me at around $5 per ettore rubber so around 20 rubbers per month vs maybe 3-5. quite a considerable difference, but I feel I have mastered the liquidator with the rubbers I use(ettore/pulex) so i’ll probably just bear the cost due to the fact it makes me quicker.
Do you use a 18 or 22inch Moerman fixed or swivel handle.
If so in your opinion which do find is the easier to use???
Swivel or fixed handle.
Check the following link. Yes, Gummifabrikken do have a production facility in China…manufacturing molds are identical. Rubber is separated in house. I personally would like to see them remain joined.
http://www.blackdiamondsqueegee.com/usa/about-us/
Interestingly I’ve just arrived back from a commercial job. My 14" Excelerator was initially smearing. Didn’t take me long to o sort the issue. Rubber was BD Hard which as you have pointed out is shorter bulb to edge than Moerman and Ettore so I instinctively realised that the clips were overly aggressive because of the lessened overhang. Answer? Stepped further back from the glass straightened the handle to the 10 degree position… problem solved. The shallower blade angle compensated for the lack of overhang and held better angle integrity on the pivot. Doesn’t effect the 10 or 12 inch channels and is only noticeably an issue with the V2 clips.
I use the 14" I use the excelerator handle in fixed for hand work, swivel on a pole
18 and 22 fixed handles only. Rarely use the 22 but am loathe to cut it down. The issue with free pivot as we’ve discussed before Herman is keeping equal pressure along the whole channel especially on the turns.
On a short pole it’s easier to control albeit with added pressure which of course results in faster rubber tip blowout.
If your blowing the tips out totally it’s a combination of too much pressure and rough frame edges. Not a criticism because I do it as well on the older puttied wooden and/or iron frames. That’s when I break out the Razer Red rubber. Great longevity but still not immune to crap frames.
Is it possible that the two rubber types come from two different factories? Or might there be another explanation for the difference in firmness…
Looking at the three side by side it’s is apparent the moerman branded rubber (middle) is just a little bit softer than the Black Diamond soft (left) and much less resilient than Black Diamond hard (right)
Perhaps the Moerman rubber also allows a lighter touch than BD soft since it is a hair wider from bulb to blade and has just a tiny bit more flexion in that direction.
