Sorry for waking up such an old post, but I’m very curious about how you plumbed in the water lines. I have a tank in the back of my old truck bed, but I never got it to not drip. In my new work van I need to build a setup like this and it definitely can’t be dripping or leaking.
I would assume standard bulkhead fittings or uniseals would work without issue.
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Nice rig btw. I need to do this soon. I am shopping for tanks at the moment. Would be so nice to not have to worry about water and I have a few large sites with limited access to water.
Super simple and not as expensive as your think.
50 gallon tank from Amazon, $200
Pump from Amazon, $60
Tucker hose reel from wcr, $500
Miscellaneous fittings/hose, $50ish
- How often do you change the pump? 2) What if you need more than 50 gallons of water for a house? 3) Can you plumb the pump after the ro / di filter? That way you connect to the water with a garden hose so it gets filtered then pushed with the pump? Or is that not enough flow. 4) With this setup, there is basically pure water in the tank right?
The suction line is inserted pretty tightly through the top of the tank so no chance for it to leak. My fill line has a check valve and it’s actually on the outside of the trailer.
Not sure what you mean by changing the pump? I’ve only replaced my pump 2X in 10 years and the battery about every 3 years. Most guys with a portable setup in my experience just fill their tanks at the end of each day when they’re back at the shop or house. I can’t think of one commercial job I have used more than 60 gallons in a day. 40 gallons will cover my biggest house, but can easily do 3 houses on a single fill for most of them.
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I draw out of my power washing buffer tank . So the pump pulls from my buffer tank and pushes it though my Di tank than to the reel.
Obviously the buffer tank is just regular water
Not pure yet. Just figured I throw that in incase your brain isnt functioning correctly.
Works great , becuase I don’t need a separate tank filled with pure watered. It’s kind of on demand. Well it is on demand.
All I need here is a Di tank we have low TDS.
On the bottom or top of any tank you can drill a hole and put a bulk head. Then put all your fittings so you can attach the tube that will go from the tank to the pump. If you do it form the top you’ll neee a tube that gets to the bottom of the tank so it can draw. If you put the bulkhead at the bottom you won’t need the tube. It will be gravity fed. I did that way when I had my tank in the van. I don’t think I had any leaks that way so you’d be fine, but I like the idea of coming in from the top to play it on the safe side if you’re worried about leaks.
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Can I do the same thing but have it push through to my 3 stage system?
I’m sure you could , I have a dual tank I use two half cube di tanks , if anything maybe a higher psi pump.
I’m not a 100% sure though. I’m just using common sense and common sense says yes.
How is your tank secured? I have a Ford Econoline van, was planning on building a basic 2x4 with plywood base that I would bolt down where my seat anchors are currently. Was planning on getting this tank:
In theory it’s easy. In practice not so much…
Heavy duty ratchet strap … if you have somthing to ratchet it to. I did in my van Nissan NV 1500. Don’t have the van anymore, but the tank didn’t move an inch ever.
Ratchet straps to the floor, doesn’t move a bit
