[COLOR=#333333]I have been running DI only for the last 10 years but was just wanting to know if using a sediment and carbon filter before the DI would be worth doing.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]I use about $400 of resin or 2 x 25 kg bags per season.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]Just moving from a mobile set up to a van mount and looking to simplify and extend as much as I can.[/COLOR]
What difference would a carbon filter make.
I have just been using DI till the TDS hit 2 then I was throwing it away.
Now I use it as a pre tank and have a second tank to polish the water.
What benefit would a carbon filter give me and how often would it need to be changed.
Carbon filter only serves to remove chlorine from city treatment. Chlorine will damage an RO. Shortening it’s life. However, I don’t know what effect, if any, it would have on di tanks, if that’s all your using.
We use much smaller housings, similar to whole-house filters. For each machine we spend less than $50 per year, as each filter is good for 30,000 gallons of chlorine filtration. IPC Eagle recommends replacement every 30k in their 5-stage machines.
Not so much the money but the hassle in the van as all the tanks are now fitted to the walls.
Was told if I put in a backwash head it would prolong the life too.
Just don’t have the time or energy in the season to be messing on.
I have two tanks in series and want as little to do as possible.
Does anyone ave experience of back wash heads where the water runs through backwards for a time to stop channeling.
Hey Bill ,
I run two DI tanks in my van also . No carbon no sediment . No need to back wash. My plan is to buy a 3rd DI tank to keep on board so if I reach a high reading while I’m on a job just swap it out , and then I have plenty of time to get that burnt tank re-filled with resin.
Honestly I probually don’t need the 3rd tank , but it would be nice to have on board for when I think I’m getting close.
I have low TDS here so two tanks last a long time. It sounds like your TDS is low also.