Question about screen burn?

Hey folks,

Got a call and looked at a home today, vinyl windows with full length aluminum mesh screens, screen frames clipped into that very tight (brittle) vinyl u channel. I looked at removing the screen, but felt that I would have issues (breakage or hard replacement). So I left them the screens were nasty, looked black in color and not the typical aluminum silver.
With screen burn or oxidized aluminum splatter how close does the screen need to be to the glass? Have never had to deal with screen burn before.

There were some windows that were the same style but missing the screens and they seemed to clean up well. Just don’t want to kick myself later with glass restoration or a bunch of screens that will not go back in and not charge (cover my$elf)or the hassle involved.


Screen burn can occur with 6 inches or more. what happens is the rain hits the screen and splashes on the glass. The metal from the screen gets on the glass and the sun bakes it on day after day. You can remove it with any of the hard water removers. Some people use oven cleaner, but keep it off the frames. One Restore is my choice.

John covered it pretty well. Just carry some OneRestore for dealing w/ screen burn.

CC550 will remove screen burn in a few seconds.


Called the H/O and told about what may be discovered after a regular cleaning and that it may need more love, as well as replacing the mesh in the screens or taking them out and storing to prevent future build up.

If you should choose to use CC550(please do your homework on it,PPE all that stuff), this is how I safely use CC550. We keep it in a squirt top plastic container(like a bike water bottle). I wet a 6 inch soaker or a microfiber towel with our regular solution, you want it soaked but not dripping. Then I put on my gloves, we use a pvc coated style. I’d then apply about a half a cup to a cup of CC550 to my soaker or towel. At the window you want to use a corner to check for tin etch haze, if you apply CC550 to the tin side of float glass it will give the glass a milky blue haze. I’ve carelessly done this to really old glass ,but have never had it happen on the style of window your talking about(it still could so check in a corner). Once your fully satisfied you are working on the air side of the glass use the “crystal soaker” and wet the window as you normally would. In most cases you can immediately go right into your normal window cleaning routine. In extreme cases I will “crystal” 2 or 3 windows and then go back to the first window re-“crystal” it then go into my normal routine. One thing that helps on the windows your talking about if they are really bad, is to give the window a quick clean with regular solution. This gets rid of the majorityof the vinyl oxidation that is usually a problem with that type of window. I try to avoid scraping a window while it has “crystal” on it, it rusts razors quickly. Much like GANA bulletins, rusty razors scratch glass. If you ever need to use it on very hot days or on the sunny side of the house it helps to wet the windows first. The fumes can be pretty bad when working with it in the heat. Do some research and be safe. Sorry for the rambling nature of the post, if you need anything clarified let me know.

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Go old school and use some oven cleaner. Nothing says you’ve put in a hard days work like burning the hair and skin off of your knuckles.