The external is straightforward I guess. But how do you clean the inside? Zero degree squeegee & side pulls?
I have to do one which is about 15’ high, has 5 panes for the roof and 5 for the walls. The plan view is like a decahedron cut in half.
Being summer in Melbourne (Aust) the water is drying very fast on glass
If the fog is not too heavy you can use your Unger polish pads with 50% pure water /50% alchohol ,very lightly misted. If the fog is very heavy you need three pads.So put 50% water 50% alchohol on a thick Unger pad(very wet),use the medium pad to blot up the water, and the polish pad to to finish the peace
You can usually get 3 panes done per set of 3 pads.its the polish pad mostly that needs to be swapped out after 3 panes, the thick and blot up medium pads will go through the whole job. So on a living room sized atrium, you might use 10-12 polish pads to make it come out pretty. The method on the polish pad is very lightly misted 50/50 alcohol/pure water. Too much and it will start to trail drops
I have 10 each- thick , medium, and polish pads. Pretty expensive, but I don’t have to go up on big A- frame ladders, drop cloth the room, empty the room, or bring drippy applicators for overhead work. I also have 10 doodlebug microfiber pads. On some of this glass, if it’s treated ,the Unger polish pads drag like crazy. The doodlebug microfiber pads work better. The main trick is VERY LIGHTLY MISTED on the polish pads, just barely moist with 50/50 pure water/alchohol, and enough pads for the job.Also works well on mirrored ceilings, bathrooms, walls of mirrors(no drips) Wash them in washing machine, soap doesnt affect them
John Lee of WCR taught me this method. John is very knowledgeable Ask him stuff. He ll answer your questions till the cows come home
I have never worked with these systems. But since I do a lot of route work it has interested me a long time. I would first work without the sun. Then curious about using a cleaner that has NO detergent. Say a high pH H2O2 solution for cutting the dirt/film without leaving a soap film. No alcohol. So slower evaporation. Then an additive that would make the glass hydrophobic at the same time it was wet/cleaned. NO extra time to make it bead water. (hydrophylic is good for outside WFP work, but hydrophobic is good for inside squeegeeless systems) Then when wiped dry the cleaning/sealing solution would come off very easy and quick. The treatment being on the inside and just one molecule thick would last for repeated cleanings. Check out my post on my blog “Mirrors are an Opportunity”.
As a right away suggestion I would do as Joshua said - use the cleaning pads, and what Henry said as far as doing this when the glass is relatively cool.