Reasonable Expectations for Hog Bristle brush?

I like the feel of a smaller brush. I role with a 10" brush. Also I prefer to use it in my hand over a pole. I do mostly storefronts so it’s gotta be able to go on a pole.

PS
also a 10" brush fits in a round bucket. Ya … I still use a round bucket. A small 3 gallon Ettore bucket with a rope handle modification.

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Crud I didn’t even consider using on my storefronts.

I only use it on brand new storefronts that have been neglected or construction clean up. Sometimes after a nor Easter storm, that’s kinda like a winter hurricane

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I use a 5 gal w/gamma lid for my water. WCR had the 10" on backorder so I got a 12"

Wait for the back order!!!

Especially if you roll with a round bucket!!!

Call and cancell! lol

Can you spell “regretting”

Rope??

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Oh no what have I done

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why does hogs hair clean so well:
a mono filament plastic bristle has smooth sides and one tip per bristle. the cleaning action comes from the tip as the sides are smooth.
a flagged plastic bristle has split ends with multiple tips per bristle. cleaning action is from the multiple tips.
hog/pig/boar hair is the stiffest natural hair. natural hair is not smooth the sides are rough-imagine a palm tree trunk. pig hair also has a naturally flagged end with more tips than any other hair. wild hogs have more flagging than domestic and the best are from china. the cleaning action comes from the tips AND the shaft.
:slight_smile:
:cactus:27

brush wars!!! muwahahaha

:guardsman:
:cactus:27

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The most success I’ve had with removing artillery fungus with a brush, would be when I’m using hot water and my old reach it clear dual trim.

Sometimes for bad initial cleans, I’ll dip the brush in a bucket with a mix of ecover and diluted lye/sodium hydroxide. That’ll melt through pretty much anything (use with extreme caution!)

I’ve been wanting to rig a dual hose setup with a pump sprayer to deliver my soap/lye mix straight to the glass.

What else does it “melt through” besides artillery fungus?

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Skin :scream:

Also:

  • anything oil/petroleum based. A strong enough solution will break down oil based stains, so use extreme caution around any painted surfaces.
  • oxidation/screen burn
  • aluminum, itself. Two of my liquidator channels are all corroded and funky looking from accidentally leaving them in the bucket overnight.
  • It could also attack the window seals if allowed to dwell too long. Basically, it can be like using a bazooka to open a jelly jar if you don’t get the dilutions right.

I use small amounts in building washing, for buildings right next to main streets that get a lot of exhaust soot.

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Thanks for sharing the tip and outline…

Do you have a exact measurement use?

Is it bad this little exchange gave me a belly laugh?

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Got WCR customer service via email and I was able to snag a threaded brush before the order went out. Unfortunately, they do not carry a 10" in that style at this time but at least I’ll be able to pole with it.

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Hacksaw?

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I’m thinking I’ll probably DIY a threaded swivel tip and dunk it endwise in my bucket

Check out this video at about the 3:30 mark. Not sure if the brush you bought would fit, but he fits a brush in the jaws of a metal Pulex Fixi-clamp.

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In 1970 all we had was a bucket and tsp with Hog Hair brush.
Worked great on the 11 KFC I did in Detroit 3 times a week!
I would like to see a hog hair nylon window cleaning sleeve or
something like that.

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