Looking to fix my mistake. I need a recommendation for what system will be my best solution.
The story:
I just had a job where I was using One Restore to take off some stucco leaching and hard water stain. One pane was especially bad and One Restore and a white pad barely did anything. So, after a thorough rinse, I started in with bronze wool and Bio Clean. After rinsing again, there was still hard water deposits bet now there micro scratches in the glass itself. (Maybe the glass was softened by the One Restore?) Anyway, I now need to go back and polish the glass to remove the hard water and repair the micro scratches.
So I do have a little experience using a friends Glassrenu system to do some full height wall mirrors in a restaurant bathroom that were vandalized with deep gouges from what I imagine was a diamond tip. The job came out ok, but it took forever and there was definitely some minor distortion and some slight haze left since the repair was on the edge between the seam of two mirror panels.
I have since been interested in picking up the new Glassrenu Pro system. I’m wondering if this is the way to go considering I’d also like to use it for hard water stains in the future or would the Mr Hard Water kit be better or is there another system I should consider? Something from Henry Grover Jr?
I’m 95% residential so I don’t foresee doing much scratch repair but I do want the most comprehensive set up for tougher mineral stain removal.
Hi Mike,
When scratches come into contact with any acid that reacts with silicates, such as glass, it will magnify these scratches severely. You definitely need to resurface the window. A cerium polish might be enough. Or you might need to grind them out first. than polish. There is no system on the market that I endorse right now. If you email me I will go into more detail.
Henry
I have found bio clean does cause micro scratches Go with the mr hard water system. It will save u money in the long run. A cerium oxide polish should take care of it
[MENTION=1528]Cody[/MENTION]
It is necessary to remove glass. With heavy stains or scratches. This is done by a one, two, or three step grinding process using silicon carbide, or diamond. SiC (silicon carbide) is the most commonly used. Micron ranges all the way up to 120 have been used for grinding. Speeds up to 3,000 rpms are very effective. It is very important also to “transition” into the untouched part of the glass when doing scratch removal. Regarding stain removal every square inch must be worked on. The new surface cannot be wavy. Waves or distortions are much easier to see the further away you are from the window. It is very difficult to transition without a universal joint. Must keep “flat on” at all times. Keep the surface temp down too. And the carrier for the particle is critical as well. The new surface created by the grinding process must be very smooth and white. The product you use is critical to the best pre-polish surface. Then when you polish using an optical cerium at about 3,000 rpms it should clear out real fine. Keep the surface temp at 80 when polishing with a 3 micron cerium slurry. Purity should be addressed when locating the best cerium. Again product is critical for the best results. Use a hard felt pad for the final polish with cerium.
We have professionals that are the very best in this field. They are NOT using any commercial system/kit. Rather they have developed their own. I am not one of them. But I am in love with this science. Always have been. I only wish there was more of a focus on the science. Not on what others have said. And not on any kit that has been developed. WE are the scientists. You and me.
Henry
Hey Michael, I’m sorry to hear about the scratches.
I would bet you anything the scratches came from the Bio-clean. We stopped carrying Bio Clean last year because of a wave of Scratch glass complaints. A lot of the other distributors dropped it as well.
Check this new kit out, Glass Renu Professional Kit
