We have a an account that went through some remodeling and had their exterior brick cleaned and sealed. They also forgot to cover the Windows…lol. Anyway, I was told price is not an issue, they want it 100% off the glass and aluminum frames. What would be the best process and chemicals to removing the brick sealer?
Titan oil flow and white scrubby should work.
I found I had to use a razor with titan oil flow just for lubrication as it didn;t come off with oil flo on it’s own to get it from the glazing, I couldn;t get it off the plastic frames though…
Only a few panes got completely covered and it took ages!!!
Being a brick sealant it will penetrate into a porous structure and will do that on glass also - you’ll only be able to get rid of the surface layer/s not anything that went into the structure of the glass.
Maybe glass polishing will be better?
Oil flow is probably the only chemical we dont have in stock… I can place an order for one… do you think a Magic Eraser will work? Is Oil flow safe to us on frames?
Oil Flo is the key. Magic eraser won’t do it. If the frames are painted, it can take the paint off them.
@Kyle_Stafford
Magic eraser wont work. If the frames are painted it will remove the paint.
while not brick sealer, we had a nc job that had concrete splatters on the a few panes. Oil flow and time did the job.
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Get ready for some serious labor. I did a job like that once and it took over an hour per double hung window. I was there three days.
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agreed, the 3 panes of glass probably took half a day and many razor blades.
The oil flow just broke it down little by little.
@wcs @ChrisG @Mulchtank @DaveYogi @Steve
Would Oil Flow and a low speed buffer work?
From experience, if you’re going to use a buffer, you shouldn’t need oil-flo. Just whatever cerium oxide type compound you already use for final buffing when doing scratch removal.
@Mulchtank so we have that Mr. Hardwater system… so just doing that process will remove the sealer?
I don’t know Kyle, I only ever did it once and haven’t tried anything but manual removal. Can you get some of the sealer and test it out on some old windows?
@Kyle_Stafford
Oil flow chemically breaks down contaminats.
It needs dwell time.
I have never tried buffing it, i think from experience buffing surfaces it would just gum up any buffing pad used.
Dwell time and elbow grease is the way to go.
When I tried on the sealer i had to deal with it had totally dried on…
Oil Flo was useless, and so was winsol 550 (i tried it for the shear hell of it)
I ended up scraping all the glazing with oil flo as a lubricant (it’s all i could think of)
Basically it’s a material removal process you may need, so buffing is probably the way to go, but i have no experience of that.
@Kyle_Stafford
How’d you get on?
Submitted a bid. Waiting for them to make a decision
Not trying to be a wise guy , but I think you should of did some testing before you put your bid in to see what works an what your getting yourself into
I hope it all works out for you . Love those jobs were they say price isn’t an issue. , but if you under bid it you end up kicking yourself
We did testing. Our hard water removal system got about 99% of the test area cleaned. It took several applications… I bid it about 400% higher than my regular rate to make sure I’m covered.
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Good job Kyle! Never use hydrofluoric on silane sealant run down. I have a transformer product based on two raw ingredients. One is a high tech optical synthetic silica. The other is a VERY powerful organic solvent (water miscible). More powerful than Oil Flo. Less stink. More specialized. I use it with my Wobble Wheel and a hard felt pad. If you would like to talk more just send me an email [email protected] and definitely take a look at my blog.
Henry
