I think I may be having problems with the RO filter I bought a few months ago for my Wash-iT Pro. Tds is reading high (180ish) The only thing I can think of is I cleaned the windows at a house that had just been painted white. I noticed that the water coming out of my system was cloudy white. I’m thinking that the hose bib (which had been painted) got paint into my system. Have any of you ever heard of this kind of problem and would it cause permanent damage?
Thanks
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Also, instead of just flushing you should let the RO soak in DI water. Do your normal DI flush for a few minutes then cap the RO and leave DI water sitting in the RO housing for a day or more if you can. This will allow the DI water to sit and eat away at some of the scale build up.
I change the carbon filter monthly. My tap water is at 670 tds, water out of the RO was at 180 yesterday. I have soaked the RO in DI water several times overnight. It’s better for awhile but then the output rises again.
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Add a couple of cups of acid to your pre filter and water. Flush it into membrane let it sit for ten minutes then rinse it out. Swimming pool acid works.
Haven’t tried that yet. It makes me a bit nervous.
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Brad fill this form out for me. A few things may be different on the form like flush valve but just use the reject water I will run this by the manufacture and see what they suggest.
[LIST=1]
[*] Set up unit to run as per operation/owners manual.
[*] Before connecting the supply water hose to the machine, measure the water flow from theend of the hose(s).
• Supply water flow __________________ gpm
[*] Measure the TDS and temperature of the supply water.
• Supply water TDS __________________ ppm• Supply water temperature ____________ °C
[*] Connect the supply water hose to the machine and turn on the water. Open the flush valve topurge the air from the system. Then close the flush valve and read the pressure on the gauge.
• Supply water pressure _______________ psi
[*] Open the flush valve. Start the motor on the machine. Measure the water flow from the flushvalve hose.
• Flush water flow ____________________ gpm
[*] Open the Pure water valve. Allow water to flow onto the ground or into a drain. For testingpurposes, do not connect a pole hose. Close flush valve. Wait for 1 minute to allow system to
stabilize. Read the system operating pressure on gauge.
• System operating pressure ____________ psi
[*] Measure the water flow from the wastewater hose.
• Wastewater flow ___________________ gpm
[*] Measure the water flow from the pure water hose.
• Pure water flow ____________________ gpm
[*] Measure the TDS of the pure water.
• Pure water TDS ____________________ ppm
[/LIST]
[FONT=UniversLTStd]10. Measure the TDS of the wastewater.
• Wastewater TDS ____________________ ppm [/FONT]
I ran the test you suggested johnedwardlee and here are the numbers I came up with. Whenever the instructions were asking for ‘flush’ numbers I put in ‘waste’ water numbers.
I hope I did this right and it is helpful.
Thank you!
Set up unit to run as per operation/owners manual.
Before connecting the supply water hose to the machine, measure the water flow from the end of the hose(s).
• Supply water flow [COLOR=#ff0000][B]5.0___ gpm[/B][/COLOR]
Measure the TDS and temperature of the supply water.
• Supply water TDS [COLOR=#ff0000][B]661 ppm[/B][/COLOR]
• Supply water temperature ____[COLOR=#ff0000][B]32.1 °C[/B][/COLOR]
Connect the supply water hose to the machine and turn on the water. Open the flush valve to purge the air from the system. Then close the flush valve and read the pressure on the gauge.
• Supply water pressure _______________ psi
[COLOR=#ff0000][B] I did a few measurements for this step: [/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#ff0000][B] - pure water psi, waste open: 62 psi [/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#ff0000][B] - waste water psi, pure closed: 70 psi [/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#ff0000][B] - waste water psi, pure open: 60 psi[/B][/COLOR]
Open the flush valve. Start the motor on the machine. Measure the water flow from the flushvalve hose. Flush water flow [B][COLOR=#ff0000].33 gpm[/COLOR][/B]
Open the Pure water valve. Allow water to flow onto the ground or into a drain. For testing purposes, do not connect a pole hose. Close flush valve. Wait for 1 minute to allow system to stabilize. Read the system operating pressure on gauge. System operating pressure __[B][COLOR=#ff0000]59 psi on the pure water side, waste capped.[/COLOR][/B]
Measure the water flow from the wastewater hose.
• Wastewater flow _[B][COLOR=#ff0000].33 gpm[/COLOR][/B]
Measure the water flow from the pure water hose.
• Pure water flow ______[B][COLOR=#ff0000]1.25 gpm[/COLOR][/B]
Measure the TDS of the pure water.
• Pure water TDS [B][COLOR=#ff0000]175 ppm[/COLOR][/B]
Measure the TDS of the wastewater.
• Wastewater TDS __[COLOR=#ff0000][B]2043 ppm[/B][/COLOR]
John forwarded it over to IPC yesterday for you Brad.
I have seen a lot of cases over the years in your area in Arizona of ROs not lasting as long as they would in other places. A friend of mine there needs up replacing his every 6 months! There is also an area in Kansas that I have observed the same thing.
If you want to check in with John towards the end of the week, he should have heard from IPC by then.
Brad … I do not know if you use a booster pump on your system or not. But you say you purchased a new RO not too long ago. Is there a chance you could have put in your RO wrong. Which end is the BRINE seal on ?
If your not using a booster pump try hooking one up and you will see the difference if you have not fouled your RO up.
Being a manufacture i have tried several different types of RO’s to see which ones work like the manufactures say they will at optimal conditions.
I have noticed that some RO membranes need a break in time and the more water that is pushed through them the better they get.
Even with the off brand RO membranes i have tested i still have never gotten as high as 180 PPM. So either you put in the RO wrong or you fouled it.
Your Axeon HF5 is a 80psi RO … I believe that’s what they are putting in the wash-it. RO’s love a lot of water to be pushed through them.
I have been in areas with 755 ppm and running it through a Axeon HF4 100 psi RO and get readings in 8-10 PPM coming out of thew RO only.
I do not even use DI anymore as i can get spot free with those numbers.
[MENTION=26036]DRWC[/MENTION]
Hey Brien!
How are you doing?
Those are impressive TDS numbers out of just an RO. I’ve really not wanted to use a booster pump, but maybe I’ll need to. I really like being portable and the simplicity of the wash-it.
It’s funny how much TDS numbers vary from city to city. I’ve found Scottsdale to usually be the lowest (425-ish) and Tempe to be the highest (725+).
The filter that came with the wash it is an Axeon HF5 4040. I believe the 4040 designation refers to it needing only 40 psi to work properly. I replaced my original filter with the exact same model. The only difference was there was a short (1", maybe) pipe at one end of the original Axeon filter and the new one didn’t have that. I really don’t know what that’s all about.
How much life do you typically get out of an RO?
Brad … By sing a pump it will still make you portable as its not like your going to carry the pump around.You dont carry your hose reel around do you ? the 4040 refers to 4" inches in diameter and 40" long even though your RO is not 40" You can go to Harbor freight and get one of there pumps
that will hook directly up to a hose and on to your hose reel.They are like $ 80.00 and will give you at least 40+ psi depending on your incoming water source psi. Yes the water is strange around here as some places you can drink out of the tap and others it will make you want to puke.
I have been using the HF4 going on a year 1/2 and have never had any problems. Even the CSM RO membranes i have tested with i havew had no problems but those do not perform as well as the Axeon. I might get 90% rejection compared to the Axeon but i still have not had a problem with them fouling with either brands i have tested. I think it has a lot to do with using a booster pump as RO membranes will perform better than just using tap water pressure.I have boosted my Axeon HF4 all the way up to 160 psi with no problems and i was able to get my tds down to 5 PPM with the water source coming in at 643.When i do testing on RO’S i will punish them to see what they will take.Never once have i fouled a RO by putting a lot of pressure through them.Try using a booster pump … I am sure you will see a big difference as to where yoiu may not even need the use of DI. Like i said in the other post … I have not used DI in over a year and still get spot free windows.
Before a job i will flush my RO for 10 minutes as i am getting things set up and after the job i will flush it for another 10 minutes as i am pulling in my hose and putting things in the truck.Never once have i had a customer complain about the water usage. Here is a identical system i have mounted in the back of my truck.It works flawless nor do i have to push around a cart and drag a hose around
