Ok So i recieved my pole , aqua adapter and hose, reel , 100 ft of hose, and 2 TDS meters, one is a 1 button cheapo and the other is a higher grade TDS 3 button cheapo maDE BY hm digital called a TDS-3, recieved my 2 Extreme 150 GPD RODI 5 STAGE Reef Keeper systems

So I had went to home depot and purchased 3 enclosed water harvesting tank, And no I am not harvesting water , just using it as a enclosed barrel with a spicket coming out of it… 2 for at the shop and 1 for home,

Measured my water here at home, Cheapo meter said 83 and TDS-3 said 124

I had purchased 2 aquarium or home Extreme 150 GPD RO/DI water filtration sytem that came with auto fill shut off and all the bells and whistles to auto fill my 55 Gallon barrels…

So I hooked 1 up here at home, flushed it as directed etc, And let it run Ro only at first, let it fill 2 gallons dumped it and let it fill some more and filled a cup, Took a reading, Cheapo meter said 3 TDS and the other said 3 to 4 TDS

Now on the extreme reef keeper theres another onboard TDS meter and it read a steady 3 TDS

Opened up the RO/DI side and closed RO only and full 5 stages, took a sample and 0 TDS and all meters and on board meter read 3 TDS before DI and 0 TDS after DI

So the question is this???

Is 3 or 4 TDS good enough for window cleaning???

Do i even need the DI???

Or do i even need RO

Can i just use DI???

And help would be great… Thanks

… Yes 3-4 TDS will still get windows clean. I use only DI and stop using it when it
gets to around 10 or so. TDS here, for city water, is about 120-130.
The thing is, if I used RO as well, then my DI will last longer. I think if I used WFP every day,
I would have to reconsider using only DI.

I have heard that you can clean at up to 10 TDS. I personally change out my DI tank (.50 cu ft) once it reaches 3-4 because it will go bad real fast and I do not want to have to go back and redo any work. You may want to consider the different areas you might be getting your water from before making any of the questioned decisions above. In my area the water sources can range from 32-600 TDS and everything in between. Some accounts I do DI only, while others I need to go RO and DI to get the water down to a 0 TDS for window cleaning. Another factor also to consider if you use an aqua-dapter or shut off the water after RO only. I noticed that when I shut off the water with an aqua-dapter and then come back to turn water on again and commence cleaning, that the TDS rises and the glass would spot. The problem seems to be that the RO does not like to work this way. The simple solution is to have the set up run RO/DI so that the buildup TDS gets polished off by the DI in all cases and you will not have this problem. I am sure there are many others on the forum here who could elaborate further and explain what I just mentioned much better than I. I would contact John Lee. He is truly an expert and can really help you out with all your questions.

I have a 5 stage Reach Higher Ground system so it has an RO and Di plus 3 other filters. I find that my DI will start to loose the zero reading and gradually move through the numbers and eventually it will get to a 9 and that is when I change it, in the mean time I have made a ton of water above the 3 or 4 mark and my TDS out the tap is around 300, so I would not rush to change the filter and I use two TDS meters just in case one has gone funny.

First, congrats on your most recent purchase(s) :wink:
I run a WCR DI tank full setup 1 Cubic foot, here’s what WRC suggests.

    [CENTER][B][FONT=arial] How long will my tank last? [/FONT][/B][/CENTER]

[FONT=arial]We get asked this question everyday.
Its impossible to give you an exact measure of how long your tank will last.
It all comes down to what the incoming water quality reading is.
Keeping your DI tank upright, and controlling the flow of incoming water will help preserve the life of your tank.

Check out this chart below, it compares incoming TDS readings to approximately how many gallons of water you can produce before regeneration of your tank is needed.
[B][FONT=arial]TDS (Total Dissolve Solids) vs. Expected gallons of Pure Water:[/FONT][/B]

TDS --------------------Gallons

50 -------------------- 6,024

100 -------------------3,012

200 -------------------1,506

300 -------------------1,004

400 -------------------752

500 -------------------602

600 -------------------502

700 -------------------430

800 -------------------376

900 -------------------334

1, 000 --------------- 302

[B][FONT=arial]Translating to time[/FONT][/B]

[FONT=arial]Depending on incoming water pressure your tank will produce about 1 gallon of water per minute.
Following this chart if your incoming TDS is 50 that will produce approximately 6,024 gallons of water or
about 6,000 minutes of waterfed pole work. [I](100 hours)
[B]What is tds?[/B]

TDS stands for total dissolved solids.
Its simply a measure of water quality, [B]typically glass will begin spotting[/B] once it reach’s a [B]TDS of 10. [/B]
When your DI tank is new it will produce a water reading of 0, that will slowly rise as you use it.[FONT=arial][I]

So right now, I’m about 001 - 002 and I use it nearly every day.
When I reach 004 I’ll be placing an order for more resin.

[/I]Like Pioneer suggested, call [B]John Lee 1 865 310 0728.
This cats’ a wizard @ wfp systems![/B]
He’s usually always reachable most days / nights, very happy to assist and answer ALL your questions.

Hope this helps …

[COLOR=#333333]Is 3 or 4 TDS good enough for window cleaning???

It really depends if its a first time cleaning or a maintinence clean. I have used my di tanks at 30 tds on regular maint cleans and it was fine. i have been using a cation and ation di tanks for over 15 years. Please excuse the spelling and grammar, I am mutitasking. lol[/COLOR]