NOTE : if this is a duplicate post, forgive me …
Well … I am going to release a series of conversations on this topic and ask some of you local guys to chime in …
Firstly, we designed the Wash-iT PRO around 3 principles :
1 The ability to operate under any conditions, PUMP-FREE
2 No costs spared for making the highest quality RO-DI system in the market with the maximum serviceability
3 No proprietary filters that ‘claw back’ the savings of ‘RO’ filtration by overcharging the DI and Carbon costs.
That said, we recognise that there are conditions where Wash-iT PRO - DUE TO THE NATURE OF ALL RO MEMBRANES - will perform at a lower level than ideal. This is mostly due to colder water temperatures.
Let me share an example that I gleaned from a conversation with one of our engineers :
[COLOR=#0000cd]Pure Water (permeate) production performance is not a simple answer.
I could run a flow curve test based on feed water pressure at the current water temperature.
Then run the same test 3 months later when the water temperature went up or down and come up with significant change in the curve.
The temperature at which all membranes are rated for flow is 77° F. (25°C.) It establishes a baseline for pressure performance.[/COLOR]
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Example:
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[COLOR=#0000cd]We just built a new system and my lab tech called me. He was concerned about the low performance. (This system has 2 – 4x40 membranes)[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#0000cd]o Permeate Flow: 2.5 gpm[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#0000cd]o Feed water Pressure: 150 psi[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#0000cd]o Feed water Temp: 41° F. (Water is damn cold in my area at this time of year)[/COLOR]
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Now when I plug in the temperature correction formula, the results are:[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#0000cd]o Permeate Flow: 3.82 gpm[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#0000cd]o Feed water Pressure: 150 psi[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#0000cd]o Feed water Temp: 61° F. (Normal summertime water temperature in MN)[/COLOR]
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In Florida in the summer this system will produce 5.3 gpm at 77° F.
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[COLOR=#0000cd]The system is performing as designed.
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[COLOR=#0000cd][B]Pump Recommendations: [/B]
The best answer here is when the window cleaner needs one for his unique set of conditions and market. Application driven.
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[COLOR=#0000cd][B]Cold Weather Operation: [/B]
Example:
The system above will produce .75 gpm @ 60 psi, 61°F.
In the summer but .48 gpm in the early spring or late fall.
This may not be enough flow for one guys taste but fine for another.
So he may want a pump to boost the feed water pressure, or use DI ONLY, or set up a Tank and Delivery Pump.
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[COLOR=#0000cd][B]Low Water Pressure Areas: [/B]
Some guys have low water supply pressures in their area where the clean.
Pressures continually below 40 psi and wanting to use RO, should use a proper boost pump.
Of course, they could switch to DI ONLY.
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[COLOR=#0000cd][B]Bigger Brushes: [/B]
Commercial guys running 18-24 inch brushes need and want higher flow rates to get the proper function from the larger surface area of the brush.
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[COLOR=#0000cd][B]Personal Preference: [/B]
Some guys want more flow all the time. This could be ignorance, or it could be experience.[/COLOR]
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[B]Multiple Poles, High Reach and [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#0000CD][B]Long Hose Runs[/B] at job site.
These are all reasons to require more water pressure, however, the customer may be better served with a small buffer tank and a Delivery Pump, compared to a proper booster pump.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#0000cd]We have not seen any evidence of water pressure only membranes having low product life.
[/COLOR]So … you can see that the answer is not always easy to predict, and the solutions are many and should be chosen wisely.
If you are seriously thinking of a BOOSTER PUMP, and you have heard the association with the WAYNE Brand, please do not think for one minute that every Wayne Pump is a Booster Pump. Completely to the contrary. Pumps are incredibly ‘purpose built’ and the standard pump you will find in Home Depot is not designed to push against the resisitance of an RO unit all the time - it has brushes and the brushes will wear out - it is designed for open, unhindered flow - on/off - putting resistance in the line will make it heat up and quickly burn out.
The proper BOOSTER PUMP in the USA is a Wayne Pump as used in the IPC Hydrocart and can be bought independently. It is 16:" x 8" x 8" and operates on 110V - it is a serious pump !
If I could influence y’all, I would encourage you to consider a small buffer tank 50-100 gallons - not from the industry - just an agricultural, or chemical purpose tank, then a Shurflo or Flojet pump to match your flow demands, and not much bigger…
Then, later, get yourself a flow-controller.
If possible, hook it up to a 12V leisure (deep cycle battery) with an intelligent battery charger …
Once you have the Flow Controller, your PUMP is ADDING VALUE to your business … not just pushing water through a membrane … and, it is all 12V - you don’t have to find a power source for your 110V Booster Pump.
Let the conversation begin :
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