Just saw this thing, anyone know anything about it? The ad says you put it on the end of an unger extension pole. It has a little compartment for soap tablets and 30 ft. of hose. My question is, does it dry spot free like wfp? I only have about 3 accounts that a wfp would make sense for me and 2 of them are quarterly so if there was a less expensive alternative, it would be great
I’ve had one for ~!5 years – I use it to scrub and rinse awnings. I use a pump-up sprayer to deliver cleaner and sealer chemicals. I have not used the Unger soap tablets.
It is not, by itself, a spot-free rinse solution. One needs to produce pure water (DI tanks, etc.) and then use the HiFlo kit with an Unger extension pole to deliver the water for brushing and rinsing.
Thanks, that answers my question
Could someone complete the following sentence.
[I]“I have an Unger 30ft pole, the Unger Hi-flo kit, now all I need to be able to properly WFP windows 30 ft up is…”[/I]
Include approximate cost if possible.
1/2 cube DI tank
$340 includes shipping
so how would that work? do you still mount the di tank in the truck and run hose from tap to tank, then tank to hi flo
A much better diy wfp setup would be the adapter for wcing pole that allows you to attach the gooseneck and Vikan brush to your pole. You can get those right here on WCR
I actually have an 18ft xtel pole with a vikan brush, so do I just need the tank that Chris mentioned and some hose?
Chris already mentioned the DI tank but you will also need garden hose from the tap to the DI tank and WCR Pure Water Supply Hose from the DI to the WFP. I’d also recommend this [url=http://shopwindowcleaner.com/water-fed-poles-sysytems/wf-pole-parts/wcr-ez-snap-on-off-valve-kit.html]WCR EZ Snap On/Off Valve Kit and then this [url=http://shopwindowcleaner.com/water-fed-poles-sysytems/wf-pole-parts/wcr-ez-snap-male-quick-connect-pole-hose.html]WCR EZ Snap Male Quick Connect for the end of the pole hose.
Check the TDS in your area. TDS is Total Dissolved Solids, or how much mineral content is present in your water. If you have over 100 ppm (Parts Per Million) TDS, then you don’t want just a DI tank. You’ll also want an RO membrane, carbon prefilter, and sediment prefilter. I personally wouldn’t go for a DI tank only if my TDS was over 75 ppm. The higher the TDS, the more you burn through DI resin.
TDS in my town is 50 ppm. I used to have a DI system with 2 4x21 DI chambers. I’d have to install a new DI cartridge after about 32 hours of continuous use with my local water. But, when I went into areas of Colorado that have a TDS of 150 ppm, I’d burn through a cartridge in 4 hours.
You can check your TDS with a TDS meter, also available here.
Something sounds amiss there – 4 hours = 240 minutes @ 0.5 gallons per minute (assuming) = only 120 gallons.
That’s my real world experience, Larry. And, it happened several times.
Wow – that’s some powerful 150PPM stuff (or, maybe it was other factors as well.)
There could have been other factors, such as higher chorine content. I don’t know.
All I can tell you is I used my Reach 2 stage DI cart at 4 different locations where the TDS was between 150-160 ppm. 3 of those locations I did more than once. At all 3, every time, I had to change out my DI cartridge after 4 hours of use.