Maybe, but we are discussing an RO system for cleaning windows, not an under-sink RO for drinking water. I have an RO for drinking water at home, but I don’t have any plans to attach a boost pump to it.
Thanks,
Sure, understood.
Thanks for all the input. I’ll be purchasing the Wayne pump .
Steve
[MENTION=2033]cudog[/MENTION] did you read Perry’s post on the pump/tank set-up, good stuff!
These are usually DELIVERY Pumps, and not BOOSTER pumps … but as long as you check that the pump is designed for the purpose…
The hourly cost of DI ONLY is estimated as TDS/100 - so if your TDS is 500, it will cost around $5 per hour to operate DI ONLY…
There are other ways to resolve the issues - switch to smaller bore jets … or from 4 to 2 jets … this will give you the velocity you need to get a fine going …
Remember - you are only using DI ONLY for tasks that cannot be serviced RO ONLY or RO-DI … which is usually 10-20% of your total business.
The most valuable use of a pump with total accuracy of benefit is to add a small buffer tank with RO-water (or fresh RO-DI water) and have the pump service the pole. Especially with a Flow Controller, you can set the flow you want at your vehicle and the Flow Controller will maintain that flow rate regardless of all the conditions you put at it, up to the maximum power of the pump before the pressure switch cuts in.
DELIVERY PUMPS do not work with pressure behind the impeller - they rely on no pressure behind the impeller, and no requirement to draw water into the pump, so they are ideally mounted usually very close to the level of the bottom of the tank.
A BOOSTER Pump would work in the situation described but they require a lot more power and that is why they are 110V or 22V …
If you look at your under sink system closely, and it is indeed an RO system, I am pretty sure you will find a BOOSTER pump already fitted to it … That is a standard design for under sink RO’s. … They then usually pressurise a tank with a bladder in it that then delivers a limited amount of pressurised water flow as the bladder compresses the water out. Then the flow returns to the production flow of the RO …
If the pump is after the RO, it needs to be servicing a tank of some sort. … we call them BUFFER TANKS as most of us are continuing to fill the tank with the Wash-iT PRO while we are working, drawing the water from the tank.
This way, the tank is effectively ‘buffering’ the difference between the production volume and the usage volume. When you turn your pole off to move around, the Wash-iT PRO is still refilling the BUFFER Tank…
This particular Wayne Pump is too big … the link above is 1.2gpm - that is suitable.
The Wash-iT PRO is designed with a ‘LOW ENERGY’ membrane - these are more expensive than other membranes but their feature is that they require less energy / pressure to purify the water - hence the ability to build them and have the majority of customers safely and efficiently use them without a PUMP.
I am not sure about the other IPC units … I would be guessing the HYDROTUBE would be similar, but the HYDROCART may not need this particular membrane as it has the WAYNE BOOSTER PUMP creating pressure - but I am surmising that …
The RO Membrane in the Wash-iT PRO is rated to 150PSI.
the Wayne pump that many are picking up from Home Depot/Amazon states that it’ll boost up to 50 PSI. So it should be safe?
Wayne 1/2 HP Cast Iron, Portable Transfer Utility Pump-PC4 at The Home Depot
When the time comes to replace the Wash-iT RO membrane, is it easy to find this type of “low energy” membrane? How do we differentiate between this kind and the regular kind when we look around for a replacement? Is there a special label or spec of some sort that will make it stand out?
Very good question Phong. A key selling point of the Wash-iT is that one doesn’t have to be chained to the manufacturer for replacement filters.
