Wash-It pump

I bought a Wash-It Pro last summer and have used it without an issue. Still working on technique but that’s an issue with me not the equipment.

With my normal operating pressure my system is works fine. However, we picked up a commercial account that has high tds(600+) and low psi. To the point that the water won’t make it past the brush bristles more than an inch. I switched to DI only and finished the job. This is a quarterly job with several large buildings and is a 3 day job. They’re adding another building that will kick it to 5 days. So my choice is buy lots of DI resin or use a pump. I’ve looked at the Wayne pump and that doesn’t seem like a good fit.

So my question is what’s a good pump that’s reasonably priced. I don’t need it very often so I don’t want to spend a fortune. I’ve looked at the Procon but not sure if it’s the way to go and the Sureflo looks like it won’t handle prolong use.


I use an IPC Hydrocart with this pump:

Wayne PC4 1/2 HP 115-Volt Transfer Water Pump, Cast Iron - Amazon.com

It goes between the tap and the filter system. It adds about 40 PSI to the line. It works great. I had a job that took me 5.5 hours with the 35 PSI that the local tap provided. When I added this pump to my system, I did the job in 4.5 hours.

if you wanted to go 12v/battery you could go with something like this

Shurflo Pumps 12 Volt DC Diaphragm Pump (Demand):: Max 1.2 GPM @ 60 psi, 3/8" FPT Ports - Dultmeier Sales

then you don’t need to worry about finding an outlet and having tons of extension cord. something around 1gpm and 60psi should be good i think.

I have a Wash-It and went with the Shurflo 12V pump purchased through WCR. I’ll be going with a 60 gallon tank in my trailer that will be used for sites with low water pressure and high TDS.

Are you going the tank route because the pump did not work well?

I have quite a few rural customers on well water with high TDS and low pressures, so I’ll be treating city tap water, which is from a much better source, to fill my tank. This is the route John Lee recommended I take, especially when I have source water above 400. It should also be a way to save time because you don’t have drag out all your equipment, you just attach your WFP an go to work. I’m not sure how a pump only set-up would work with the Wash-it if pressure was your only concern, if the pressure is too low would there be enough volume to run the pump? E-mail John and he’d be able to better answer your question.

Can you elaborate on why the Wayne pump doesn’t seem like a good fit for you?

The Wayne is rated at 1450/hr or 24gpm. I would be using only .75gpm or so + rejection. I would think with that much discrepency the pump would overheat very quickly. That coupled with using it for extending periods would probably lead to failure very quickly. I hope I’m wrong that would make life easy.

Hi Steve,

I started using one of the Wayne pumps about 3 years ago with my EZ Pure system. You should not have to worry about it overheating. I have one commercial job I do where it runs about 6 hours continuously. No problems at all. The Wayne pump definitely gives a good increase in pressure and speeds up your rinsing. I am not sure if the Sureflow pumps can run continuously that long.

I’ve had to replace the brushes in the Wayne pump a few times. Easy and cheap to do. It did start making some funny noises at the last job I used it on at the end of the last year. I am planning on taking it apart this week to see if I need to fix it or buy another one. I am happy with the life I got out of this one even if I have to buy another one.

For those concerned about going the ‘Wayne Pump’ route, could that potentially hurt the wash-iT system or is it just pump burn-out that is a concern?

Also, any benefit of putting the pump in between the Wash-it and the pole rather than before the system?

I’ve run the Wayne pump for 4+ hours continuously. They’re petty bullet proof. i wouldn’t hesitate to use it for a full day.

Mark, i think if you put the pump between the pole and system you’ll destroy the RO. It’ll collapse it.

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The pump I posted doesn’t put out 24 GPM. It’s limited to the GPM of the tap and it just boosts the PSI. There is a difference between a boost pump and a diaphragm pump. If you’re pumping out of a tank, go for a diaphragm pump. The GPM is an issue with this. If you’re looking to boost the PSI inline, look for a boost pump.

Like others here have said, I’ve run mine for 4 to 6 hours at a time with no problems. In the summer I try to keep it out of the sun if it’s running that long, but I haven’t had any issues. I just replaced the brushes last week after 18 months of weekly use.

You have the Wash-iT Jared?

No, i don’t have the wash it. I had the ettore for years but I am looking at the wash it for a purchase soon! It was just my understanding that the ROs are pretty fragile like that.

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I guess my main concern is, would that Wayne pump (Wayne PC4 1/2 HP 115-Volt Transfer Water Pump, Cast Iron - Amazon.com) be suitable with the Wash-it in terms of, “could it damage the Wash-iT’s RO membrane?” Is the RO in the Wash-iT unique or the same to the IPC hydrocarts?

I think the Wash-iT’s RO membrane should be pretty standard and the only unique thing about it if any would be the claim of 98% rejection instead of the normal 96% rejection rate for RO membrane. So I don’t see how using it as a BOOSTER pump before the Wash-iT can damage the membrane. I think I read somewhere that the ideal water pressure for the Wash-iT is around 80 psi. You wouldn’t use the Wayne pump as a booster unless the tap pressure is around 40 psi or less, in which case the Wayne pump will boost it an additional 40 psi for up to 80 psi, the ideal pressure for the Wash-iT anyway.

But if you use it as a delivery pump between the Wash-iT and the pole, that may be a problem because it’s only designed as a booster pump. Ideally, if you put a delivery pump between the Wash-iT and the pole for high stories work, you probably want a buffer tank after the RO and before the delivery pump to help protect the RO and give you adequate water flow.

Cool, thanks.

Not sure if this applies to the Wash-iT but I have read and seen that the EZ Pure actually works better when the incoming pressure is higher. The higher pressure makes the RO membranes more effective.

I have talked to several guys in the water business. They all have said the same thing about higher pressure and RO: More pressure will help the RO work better.

While this is true in general for RO system used for windows cleaning, too much pressure for under-the-sink RO system for drinking water can be problematic because it can cause the automatic shut-off valve to not work properly even when the water tank if full. I have first-hand experience with this because I have 2 under-the-sink RO drinking water system at home and my home’s pressure at 80 psi cause the shut-off valve to not function properly. I ended up having to install a small pressure reducer in front of the system for it to shut-off properly.

But this is not because it’s bad for the RO, it’s only because it’s bad for the auto shut-off valve. I guess the auto shut-off valve works on the principle of having the tank pressure build-up (when full) to a point where it’s equal to the incoming pressure, which triggers the shut-off. But if the tank even when full cannot get to the same pressure of the incoming water (because the incoming pressure is way too high), then the shut-off will never happen. In that case you end up wasting water down the flush line.