WFP Leaves stains

Hi Bill,

We have just invested in 2x trolley systems with an osmosis system with de-iornizor. We live in a hardwater area and when we were cleanign trad. we used GG4.

We used the poles today and purified the water to 004ppm, before it was purified the water was 344ppm.

When we brushed the sills then the windows after we rinsed the top of the glass downwards covering all the window. When the water dried (in and out of the sun) it left white spots all over the window where the water had dried.

Was this the water not pure enough? or was it dirt in the water or even the de-iornizer mixture?

Kind regards

Jamie & Cris

Hello,

What you are seeing is soap that has been agitated and then dried on the glass.

The first couple times you clean those windows you will need to work with them a lot more then in the future.

Here is a solution.

After you clean the windows like you did this time, allow them to dry.
Then go back to the window and only clean the glass. (not the top frame)
Avoid the top frame(this is where the soap was coming from)

By avoiding the top frame you will limit the amount of contaminates that come down from that frame and therefor leave the windows spot free.

Thats great will let you know how we get on. Does this mean that we have to do every first clean twice and then once each time after that

Thanks

Doesn’t sound like the soap - sounds like frame problems.

Frame Problems?

Hey Jamie and Cris,

I am not a wfp expert but I play one on tv. I did my 1st 4 residential wfp jobs this week. I think what Karlos is talking about is the frames around the glass. Two of the houses I did this week had modern viny coated window frames, no problems. Two others had painted wood frames, problem. There is actually quite a few posts about this issue on this board.

The paint on both these houses was in very good shape, but I still had issues. Basically, even if I scrubbed and rinsed the heck out of the top of the frame, paint residue would drip onto the glass and leave spots when it dried. I call it “weeping”, I don’t know what everyone else calls it.

So the trick, and one part of the wfp learning curve, is figuring out how to prevent it. From what I learned from this board, I just had to prevent drips from the top of the frame onto the glass. On the windows where it wasn’t too much trouble to reach, I would go ahead and scrub everything, rinse the top of the glass and the frame, and then I dried the top edge of the frame with my scrim. Then I continued to rinse the rest as usual.

Of course, the real trick is doing windows you can’t reach. I ordered a 12" hogshair brush w/ fanjets, my pole came with a dual trim with pencil jets. From what I learned here, it is helpful to have both kinds. The pencil jets give me much more control over where the water goes. What I ended up mostly doing was this. With the pencil jet brush head, I would go ahead and scrub and rinse as usual, including the top frame. Then I would move to the next window while the top frame edge of the last one dripped and dried. Then I would come back and rinse just to the top edge of the glass. If there were still drips waiting to fall, I would pinch the pole hose shut and use the brush head to remove the drips. Using the pencil jets and turning the pressure down, so the water wouldn’t splash up, was the trick for me.

The process is a little tricky, and I’m sure everyone has their own little twists. But it still better than climbing a ladder. I’m just sharing my limited but very recent experience. Now that I have one, I wouldn’t trade my wfp for anything. Its a whole new world, a world of really clean glass. Thursday and friday, I did a new house, no weeping, with 95 tdl (frenchies) windows. 80+ were ladder access, I cleaned all the outsides and 30+ insides by myself in 12 hours. I would still be there if it wasn’t for my wfp. WFP ROCKS.

Good Luck

As Sean says above, there are quite a few different problems with frames. If you have a sort of milky residue which I suspect you have? It could be old aluminium frames that have passed their prime. In this case - it will take more than a couple of cleans & a shed load of water to fix. With the lack of information given on frames, condition & amount of water I can only suspect what I’ve written as it’s a common problem in the UK. GG4 usually fixes any soap residue problems & on most first cleans I will use this with a porcupine first & wfp immediately after - I’ve yet to ever have spotting problems this way! I also recommend this route as opposed to using huge amounts of water & saving time in the long run + a better finish.

+1 GG4 ( sans dish washing liquid ) porcupine then WFP.

We did a job with 5 years of dirt from construction and the key was a use 1000 gallons of water and a simpole hog hair brush.
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