I have read on here about the importance of maintaining your WFP equipment. What kind of maintenance needs to be done each day after use.
Specifically for a DI tank and the WFP?
Also what are some good extra parts to have on hand that you have found you needed on the job because something broke with your equipment?
I’ve found it handy to have extra quick connect parts, extra hose connections, extra hose gaskets, extra push-to-fit connections, and an extra DI tank. But, I had a 2 stage DI cart from RHG. So, I just had to have an extra DI cartridge, not a whole tank.
I’ve since modified that cart into an RO/DI cart.
Extra pole hose is good to have to. I’ve accidentally cut mine. I have a couple spare push-to-fit connections and extra pole hose in the truck.
The only thing I’ve had to replace in just over a year of using WFP was the ball valve that connects the 3/8" hose to the small WFP clear tubing.
Lowe’s was only about 2 miles away from the gig I was doing and they actually had them in stock. I was shocked that they even had them.
Oh yeah, it is good to have the rubber seals or gaskets for the garden hose because they will fall out.
Always have a water key on hand.
This is a good thread for everyone to chime in on. I’ve been planning on putting together a small tool box with spare WFP related parts & supplies so I’d like to hear everyone’s input.
I have a small parts box w/ end clips for my channels, hose washers, quick connect parts, and any other little odds and ends I think might come in handy.
Seals and gaskets are a must. Other than that, haven’t had the use for too many extra parts (just make sure you keep tools with you … wrenches and screw drivers) … oh and electrical tape has been a god send (I guess duct tape would work too, but the electrical tape blends in to my hose better :).
I think it was Alex from WCR who mentioned that you need to have proper maintenance or else you could even catch some disease that is water born, some sort of pneumonia.
The only thing I can think of is to drain your hoses, maybe keep your brush clean? And of course change out your resin!
I think having some spare parts on hand sounds like a good idea.
Wheils /Legionaries disease has been mentioned with regard to WFP, but the risk is minuscule due to the fact that it does not affect water that is below 20 degrees Celsius on a constant basis and requires protein & minerals to re-produce, both of which aren’t available to it in pure water.
The only maintenance you really need to do is check your TDS every day. A reading above 002 parts per million & its time to change resin. I know some guys work wit a reading as high as 010, but my personal experience is that I get more problems with spotting & streaking when I do this.
[UOTE=SqueakyCleanSD;44085]I think it was Alex from WCR who mentioned that you need to have proper maintenance or else you could even catch some disease that is water born, some sort of pneumonia.
The only thing I can think of is to drain your hoses, maybe keep your brush clean? And of course change out your resin!
I think having some spare parts on hand sounds like a good idea.[/QUOTE]
I have a plastic husky tool organizer (for bolts and bits) at home depot for 5 bucks. I have extra gaskets for the tucker pole hose, gaskets for the garden hoses, nipples for the tucker hose connector, extra valves, squeegee clips, tucker screws galore, tucker brush metal (dont know what you call it).
I have had my pole fall to the ground a couple times before (my very careful employees) where the first time the brush cracked in half, the next time the metal on top of the brush broke! I have lost valves on the job before, and had to go to hydroscape to get new ones (which takes at least an hour off the job).
Anticipate what will ruin your day and get the parts that will keep your job running.
In addition to whats already been mentioned,
I use a generic fiberglass protectant on the fiberglass poles. I had a fiberglass ladder that started to “flake” and became almost brittle because of the sun. I don’t want that to happen to the fiberglass WFP, so I clean it with that protectant every once in a while. You can find it at a boat store, or wal-mart’s boat section.
Another MUST have for WFP use, in my opinion, is a good pair of polarized sun glasses. Most of the time you’ll be looking up, right where the sun is shining back at you. Polarized sun glasses will help you see better, protect your eyes, and probably keeping you from getting headaches.
Something else I keep with me is several wet floor signs and caution tape along with a floor squeegee. I’ve found that people appreciate the warning if you’re working in a high traffic area.
Get a water-tight plastic toolbox & once in a while fill with pure water & a touch of GG4. Stick your brush head in there & let the rocking of the truck clean the brush for you on the way to jobs. You’ll be amazed at the crap that comes out. I wouldn’t recommend leaving your brush in pure water for any length of time (1 day +).
Is that really necessary you think for your WFP, or are you just overcautious? Don’t you store your poles in a pvc tube away from the elements? I have never thought about doing that for a WFP.
I have noticed my 12’ fiberglass stepladder fading, sitting on top of the van. I wonder if it’s too late to use some sort of protection that your talking about?
So you raise a good point which I hadn’t even thought of yet which is that you have to clean your brush?
I guess I was thinking that because of all the water coming out the brush that you would not need to clean it.
So what is the best way to clean your brush, pure water and some GG4?
Are there other ways and how often should you clean your brush?
I just hose my pole down every sooo often.
Karl posted a while back that he puts his brushes in a tub of pure water and a little bit of GG4. I do that every now and then and it really gets your brushes clean.
This wasn’t initially my idea. Someone posted this over on a UK forum around 5 years a go & I followed his lead. He continued on to say that it greatly reduced the spotting he was experiencing. I found a sealable plastic toolbox by accident & used this from then on. I also experienced metal parts super-rusting if I left the brush heads in there for long periods.
If I remember correctly, the diagnosis for spotting was:
Dirt in brush head
Technique
Top frame problems
Amount of flow to brush-head
Lack of rinsing, flushing
The learning curve for wfping is greatly reduced with experience. It’s still just another tool for window cleaning & will also win you some big accounts. Not all windows are great for the wfp experience. I still to this day don’t do flaky wooden frames or bare frames if I can help it - as I find squeegeeing quicker. Not to say it can’t be done, just patience & a lot of water is needed.
Never mention spotting to clients! They don’t know what it is!
A 5 gallon bucket would work perfect for storing brushes.
Good idea Mr. Robinson, thanks.
